Attn: Jim.... Help with Research/understanding spring rates

[goldyaccord]

Now that i know what the costs are...

My next step is to understand all this Rate/size jargon that GC has listed on their site.....

I'm currently looking around for bits of info for figuring out what's the right size, length, and wieght before binding..etc etc...

nitty gritty ain't it..

Let me know if u learn anything about getting the right size and so on.

Josh :pimp:

P.S.

Here's the terminology pasted from the site....

Lo-inch is the free length of the spring (unloaded)
Di-inch is the inside diameter , every spring on this page is 2.50 inches inside diameter.
C-lbs./inch is the actual spring rate, expressed in pounds per linear inch.
Sc-inch is how many inches the spring can be compressed before it coil binds.
Fc-lbs is how many pounds of force it takes to compress the spring until it coil binds.
WT-lbs is actually how much the spring weighs, and has nothing to do with the stiffness.

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Well the spring rate you desire will pretty much set things. What the real difference is how long the spring is that you go with. So, lets say you go with the 500lbs spring rate your talking about. As you look at the longer springs(7",8", 9"ect) that are 500lbs, their spring rates are higher when you start to compress them fully They all start off at 500lbs, but of course go higher as you start to compress the spring. Additionally the springs that are on the car now are 350LBS, they go to a higher rate than that, as you start to compress them. I wonder how long the springs, uncompressed, are on the the car right now?

What you need to do is call them and tell them how low your running and what you want, they will help you pick the right spring length. Gordon at Koni spoke highly of the ground-control people and so did the tech's I've spoken with at eibach.

One tech note: Your springs are linear, not progressive. So you do not have a mild spring rate to start off with like you would with a progressive rate spring. Linear is better from a performance standpoint, worse from a ride quality standpoint.

[goldyaccord]

Jim,

The Length of my springs are 6 inches to be exact. So, I basically should maybe go with a 7 inch length at 600 pounds? Like u, I'm a very aggressive driver. You'll find me going 80-100 on my back roads home. Crazy? yes definatly but i'm just that type of guy. But, I'm not crazy enough to really push it to the point that i know i could crash. and i try to keep the tires from squealing. If so, i'll back off.

hmm, A quick guestion. I'm afraid i have my springs on backwards. I just noticed the part#'s and.... in the front, the # is 180.64.61. The rears are 200.64.44.

Is this the correct spring for the front and back or do they have to be switched?

Thanks.

Josh

[Jims 86LXI HB]

Well I can't find where they list your part numbers on the web site, so I'll call them tuesday.

[goldyaccord]

N/M Jim, Today i did my brakes and i decided to mess with springs. I swapped them front to back and now it rides stiffer in the back and softer in the front. My questions were basically answered then. But good thing i did it becuase know i know the difference between 350lbs in the back verses 250 or something like that. Plus for some reason, the back was firmer in corners. almost wanted to get loose if i really pushed it. (did it on purpose ) I have a better idea of what kind of spring rates to get. Man, i wish i had a Digital camera. then i'd post pics of what i did today. argh!


Josh