My 89 has some quirks to the suspension that my 87 never did.
The 87 was always a solid ride, when it came to turning and any of that (She was SUCH a clean car... sniff).
The 89, however, is not. Whenever I'm turning, and I hit a bump or something, the wheel will, like, jerk one direction or the other. The 87 would take a bump while turning and it wouldn't faze it.
Anyone know what's up?
The stiffer front sway bar (and rear sway bar) may be why it seem to handle differently in bumpy corners since hitting a bump on one side will compress the opposite side more than it did in the other LX.
...Or maybe something isn't right with the LXi. If you've already checked the condition of the joints (at least for torn grease boots) you may want an alignment. Small changes in alignment can make a big difference in how the car handles.
Mike
Well... it's a feeling that isn't right. I'm sure you know what you mean... something that just doesn't feel like it should be there.
(As for the sway bars, I had my car up on a lift at the muffler shop. I looked underneath and there is so much stuff rusted to shit... makes me go
possible balljoints, i know after i changed mine the car rode and handled so much better!
how difficult are they to change? Could I do it in my garage with minimal tools, or should I enlist the help of my friend's dad, who has air tools and a billion other car tools?
i would like to know how diffucult the ball joints are to change also. hey 87dxhatchback, try this, take you lug wrench and put it on a lugnut on your front tire. then shake it violently and see if your tire moves at all or shakes. my ball joints are fucked and thats what my car does. make sure that the tires are on the ground not jacked up, and also make sure they are on the car too.
ACT Stage 1, Short Ram Intake & 2.25 Dynomax custom catback w/4inch carbon fiber tip. Thats it for now.
Putting the paint back on after
SOMEONE STOLE MY PAINT!!!!!
I just changed my upper balljoints it was simple! I also have the 87 Prelude arms on there. If you are changing stock balljoints(ones attached to the upper arms) jack up your car remove the tire and look and see where they go into you chasis at. Now pop your hood and look where you would think it's coming in at you might have to move your coil over to get at the two 17mm bolts. Unscrew thoose and the whole arm will come out. Also take off the castle nut w/ the pin going through it. Don't use a ball joint seperator all you have to do is get a hammer and tap(hard) on the housing that holds the balljoint bolt and the bolt will come out. Theese pics from the how to will help. http://quadmobile.virtualave.net/LudeArms2.htm
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Easiest way is to get ready a big 17mm wrench (the whole wrench shapes like an S, it might have a 19mm on the other end) or an swivel adapter, a long extender and ball joint puller. You don't have to have these things, but it makes the job alot simpler than removing the wiper motor, emission box and whacking the joint.
Something else: If I am ever cranking the wheel ALL THE WAY over (like when I'm doing U-turns) the wheel will move back and forth under my hand, when it hits bumps. Like the maximum turning capacity of the wheel is lengthening and shortening...
Help meh! I wanna correct this before something goes bad...
how is your power steering doing? Check to make sure your belt is tight enough, mine was a little looser than it should have been and turning corners wasnt as smooth as it is now just by tightening the belt... see if it helps
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
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