Here's an overhead pic of my stage 4 vac delete. Searched the sight for weeks without finding a decent diagram to proper routing. Anyhow, here's mine! 333k in 2017, Running smooth and idling right at 850rpm. Pulled the intake manifold and cleaned all the gunk out of it and gave her a new sage spray down.
Pm me if anyones having issues with the vac delete.
Looks a lot better!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Need a new Dizzy, But the damn thing is like $150 new
You should be grateful. They used to be $350.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Jeeeeeeeeeeez. Hoping to luck up on my next junkyard pull.
Don't get your hopes up too much. Most will be worse than what you have. The rest will be as bad. $150 is a good deal. Just get a new one if you can at all swing it.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Put a weber on and have 1 line lol...
well 2 if you count the brake booster..
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Question. What is the advantage of doing a "vacuum delete "?
Less shit to go bad causing screwy things to happen.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Could this also work for a fuel injected 88 accord as well? Never owned a car this old and im in the process of actually ripping shit apart changing hoses, gaskets, cleaning the bay, etcc.. if i could get rid of some of the spaghetti that would be great but honestly id have no idea what id be doing and dont want to start deleting shit
Carbs a different animal. No, for fuel injection, it will not without more work like OBD1, etc. There's very limited stuff to rid of until then.Originally Posted by Donnyten
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
I installed a weber 38/38 on my 1987 honda accord. I am down to a vacuum for the cruise control (not working???) a vacuum for the brake booster a vacuum for the blend door and a vacuum for the vacuum advance.
My question is how do I apply vacuum to my vacuum advance. There are two vacuums. I have read and read and found out that one is a cold advace and one is a normal advance. How do I hook up the cold advance? Can I if I am not running the black control box? Do I need to purchase a new distributor? or Do I need to purchase a new vacuum advance module?
Is there any interest in the plethora of parts that I removed? My car was running well with good power it just wouldn't idle. If you raised the idle with your foot it ran fine. But I had the 38/38 sitting there staring at me...
So is it just 4 vacuum lines left?
2 for the distributor
1 for the Brake Booster
1 for the Charcoal canister
You can get away with just the distributor and the power valve. Im planning on snapping some pics tomorrow. The big tee right central in the back of the intake has all the vacuum ports you need, I think the brake booster one has its own on there or its a separate one, I dont remember because I dont have a booster, but it wont get in the way of the rest of the delete, do whatever you want with it
I do have my only other line teed to that vacuum reservoir on the firewall, I think its for hvac. If theres a lot of pressure in the tank when you unscrew the cap you probably ought to delete the charcoal canister too, but its not that res on the firewall. haven't been down that road though
Last edited by ShiRen; 07-30-2019 at 12:33 PM.
What did you do with -
1. mechanical secondary
2. choke
I’ve seen someone ziptie their secondary and then I’ve seen the bracket. I’m not to keen on using a ziptie.
What did you use to block off the exhaust manifold for the ports on the Intake Manifold for The EGR.
Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-03-2019 at 10:43 AM.
As for the zip tie I was going to replace it with mechanics wire and use a tool to wind it tight, but its just worked as is. Could also be tac welded
I started on the carb. On the other side of the carb there is a bracket that you take off and you can use it like this. Works awesome!!!
hmm. Pretty clever if it opens at about half throttle and opens the secondary fully at wot
Did you run it on your car yet? That’s the “yellow” piece in the how to. It’s a yellow “brass” piece. Yellow and brass are the same!?!?😂 not to steal your thunder, but I have alottttt of free time at work. 😬
Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-06-2019 at 05:24 PM.
nope lol. I dont usually want to work on my car after work, but I popped my hood and saw it hanging there on the other side of the spring that I didnt bother to rewind.
And for what its worth its not even brass lol, its steel with a zinc coating, I guess the zinc does yellow it, but how you are supposed to figure that out is beyond me
Red arrow = don't plug
Yellow arrow= plug
Green arrow= coolant
Blue arrow= loop together with vac hose
Orange arrow=Fuel hose
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