Awesome build! What header are you running?
Awesome build! What header are you running?
Obx brand. Can get em off eBay for around 200$ shipped. You can still find pacesetter ones but they are around 400$
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Ah okay yeah, I was thinking that was obx but that thick ass flange threw me off. I’m not sure where to find pacesetters anymore):
Hm, actually found one for a reasonable price
https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer...e-si-2-0l.html
It's a 4-2-1 style. The OBX is a 4-1 style.
There is a difference from what I remember as far as performance goes but I dont recall what it is lol
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
So after tinkering for days now, still idles like shit but I am figuring things out. Got new jets on the way... going to a 45f9 vs the 55f8 I currently have. Idle jets are WAY to rich right now. I'm at 2 1/2 turns outs on the idle mixture screws which is wayyyyyy too much but it's the only way to make the idle stable(ish). Carbs are sync'd as best I can. Plates are just visible on the 1st progression hole on all 4 plates which is where it's supposed to be. Linkage did have a bind in it but fixed that.
Has a stumble on light throttle but if you give the beans off idle, doesn't stumble at all. Go figure.
Started collecting parts for the Ford EDIS timing conversion. Going with a megajolt setup. A big part of my idle issue is timing. Vacuum advance isn't getting a solid signal off the one runner it's currently on so that's disabled for now and I advanced the distributor by rotating it. Temporary fix but it did help the idle out a lot.
Plus, at least then I'll have a programmable timing curve which will be nice.
Also determined that the factory throttle cable does not have enough travel to fully open the carbs. Working on a solution for that.
Honestly surprised I haven't blown this thing up yet
So continues my adventure..
Last edited by InAccordance; 07-13-2018 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Cause I can't spell..
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
That EDIS is interesting. I can't wait to see you what you do with it.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Most difficult part will be mounting the timing wheel to the harmonic balancer but I did find a website that makes the rings and my idea is to have a shop cut out the a/c belt part and mount it there. That way I can keep the power steering belt on. The rest is just collecting parts which are actually pretty cheap. The megajolt unit is only 179$ with a TPS activation and they make kits for webers to mount a TPS.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Hey so what cam are you running? I feel like everybody goes with a 272, then it idles like shit and has no bottom end torque at all. At least that's what I'm experiencing on my A18/DCOE setup.
Just stock cam for now.
I've narrowed my problems down to timing. With the advance disconnected, it is ALOT more responsive and screams like hell BUT wont idle to save its life and backfires like mad. With the advance connected, doesn't backfire much but spits out the carbs and is sluggish to respond to throttle.
My jets are off too but I do have news ones on the way so just a waiting game on that.
Cams are very difficult to find anymore, none of the old makers even do them now. The only one I've found is Webcam but the numbers on their website dont make a whole lot of sense.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
I would think that most shops who can do cam regrinds, should be able to do these. Maybe they don't have the specs of what to grind them to?
If not, I know at least Delta Cams in Tacoma, WA. Or Colt Cams up in BC. Colt does the "Tri-Flow" cams where they open one valve before the other one to promote more swirl in the combustion chamber and supposedly some more bottom end torque compared to a standard regrind. Never have really seen any dyno comparisons though.
Hm, stuff to keep in mind. I know Webcam has a few left in stock but again, the numbers they post on their site are funky. I did call them a while back and got numbers for one of them but I lost the paper I wrote it on so need to call them again.
What did you do with your timing on your a18? I'm having a hell of a time with it.
Seems like I cant have both a stable idle and good performance. I can get it to run smoothly where it wont stumble on light throttle but then it wont idle for shit. Or I can get the idle stable but they run like crap and backfire bad.
I'll know more once the new jets come in.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
do u have ur lower timing cover on and just the top one off? or both off and if so, will u leave it that way?
I haven't done anything crazy with the timing. That might explain why I have no pickup until about 3000rpm. It's literally bog bog bog, then it rips. All I have really done to set the timing is set it by ear. It idles fairly well, but it is lumpy, due to the cam. Idle is set around 1000rpm.
It really takes forever to get the carbs warmed up. And until they're warm, they will hardly run at all. I really should hook up a cable to the starting circuit LOL.
I think in the next few weeks, after I'm done with my Lemons race, I'll probably dive into this car a bit more. It's been months since I tried to run it last.
Top one is off, got to rice it up a bit ya know. Actually just took it off when changing the water pump and just never put it back lol.Originally Posted by Donnyten
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
@2ndgenguy ah, ive been screwing with the timing, want to avoid having the low end run like crap. Does pretty good but there is a definite pickup above 3k. The edis conversion should fix the low end issues. From what I've been reading, you can't use a vacuum advance reliably unless you tap each runner and run them into a can to stabilize the signal. Does explain why if I unhook the advance, it will scream in the low end but has problems with pinging and backfires like crazy.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
We've done it boys, she is purring like a kitten finally. Ended up putting the 55f8 idle jets back in but left the 190 air correctors in. Seems to love that combo.
Pulls fucking HARD and I got my first speeding ticket with it the other day
That sound... worth every fukken penny.
Having an issue though with the distributor... right as it hits 4k the tach jumps around and there is a slight drop in power. Literally lasts less than a second but it's there. Once it gets past that, completely fine the rest of the way. I've only taken it to 7k so far, dont want to blow it up pushing it further =P
Collecting parts for the EDIS conversion anyway so not too worried about it tbh.
Now to find a manual transmission....
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
converting to a manual?We've done it boys, she is purring like a kitten finally. Ended up putting the 55f8 idle jets back in but left the 190 air correctors in. Seems to love that combo.
Pulls fucking HARD and I got my first speeding ticket with it the other day
That sound... worth every fukken penny.
Having an issue though with the distributor... right as it hits 4k the tach jumps around and there is a slight drop in power. Literally lasts less than a second but it's there. Once it gets past that, completely fine the rest of the way. I've only taken it to 7k so far, dont want to blow it up pushing it further =P
Collecting parts for the EDIS conversion anyway so not too worried about it tbh.
Now to find a manual transmission....
Tach jumping around sounds like a bad igniter. I had about 5 of them go out on my 1g Accord. Apparently they aren't always replaced when they rebuild distributors. That was what prompted my MegaJolt conversion.
Yea, if I can find the stuff I need. Apparently they don't exist where I live. Checked the junkyards around me, all automatics.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
I'm, never had one go bad so don't know the symptoms. I do have one that came off a fuel injected engine, would that work or are the fi ones different?
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
x2 on igniter. My tach finally stopped jumping around when I replaced it. There is a test for them on p. 24-9 of the manual, which is well worth doing.
For the trans, have you tried mantrans.com? They won't be able to get you a pedal box or shifter or anything, but my trans from them is sure working nice.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I'll check it out, thanks for the tip.
That website name... sounds... amusing lmao
What did it cost you from them with shipping and all that?
I just looked and they list exactly what I'm looking for... even have a Prelude one which I would actually prefer if I had the choice. Something about the Prelude gears being shorter and such.
Last edited by InAccordance; 08-01-2018 at 08:31 PM.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
For the love of god, get the Prelude gears. The Accord gears are so far apart, you're either at redline, or you've dropped down to 2500rpms and lost all your power. Really killed me last weekend on the race track lol. You'll really notice it if you end up getting a cam. Maybe not as bad on a stock motor, since it's got a pretty flat torque curve.
I remember when I had the 2g Prelude, it ripped through gears. 1st and 2nd felt so short in that car.
The big thing with them back then was to take a 1g Integra gear box and use that. Also some guys would take 5th out of an accord just to have highway cruiseability and better mpg.
Pretty much unicorn parts now..
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Yeah, I swapped a 2g Prelude (carb) transmission into my 84 Accord. What a difference that made. Pretty sure the ES motor did not like running 4500RPM down the highway though in 5th gear. I need to verify if the 2g Prelude Si transmission has shorter gears too. As much as I'd like the hybrid trans, I think that a stock trans with decent gears should be good enough. The A20 is pretty torquey, and I am not sure if the extra short Integra gearing is going to be all that beneficial, or just make me shift gears all the time...
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