Progress thread

[InAccordance]

Are the prelude carb and FI transmissions different?
I know the SI one will work on the accord but don't know about the carb one.

[InAccordance]

Any ideas on if a carb prelude trans will work on the a20? I actually found a manual Prelude trans from an '87 but it's a carb one. Need to verify before buying =P

[2ndGenGuy]

1989 Accord CV Half Shaft, Driver's side MT:

Overall Compressed Length (In): 36-7/16 Inch
Inboard Shaft Connection Style: Spline
Outboard Shaft Connection Style: Spline
Number Of Inboard Splines: 27
Number Of Outboard Splines: 26
ABS Tone Ring Included: No
Axle Nut Included: Yes
Axle Nut Hex Size (mm): 32mm
Axle Nut Thread Size: M22-1.50
Axle Nut Head Type: Flanged Hex

1987 Prelude Dual Carb Driver's Side Axle:


CV Axle Shaft New; Front; Driver Side; Manual Transmission
New Or Remanufactured: New
Overall Compressed Length (In): 36 Inch
Overall Compressed Length (mm): 916mm
Inboard Shaft Connection Style: Male
Outboard Shaft Connection Style: Conventional
Number Of Inboard Splines: 25
Number Of Outboard Splines: 24
ABS Tone Ring Included: No
Axle Nut Included: Yes
Axle Nut Hex Size (mm): 31.8mm
Axle Nut Thread Size: M22-1.50
Axle Nut Head Type: Hex


The 1.8 engines use smaller axles, so you will want to skip that.

I believe the bellhousing has the same pattern, but it's actually smaller since the Prelude has a smaller clutch or flywheel as well.

[InAccordance]

So really to make it work I would have to take accord axles and have a shop put the prelude ends on them that go into the diff.
Even then what would I do for a clutch and flywheel? Use the prelude ones?
hmm. Thanks for the information.

[InAccordance]

So lesson learned, make sure your carb top hats are fully screwed on...
Never even thought to check them since they were brand new but all the screws were not fully tightened. Had fuel seeping out the tops, now my carbs are dirty

[2ndGenGuy]

So really to make it work I would have to take accord axles and have a shop put the prelude ends on them that go into the diff.
Even then what would I do for a clutch and flywheel? Use the prelude ones?
hmm. Thanks for the information.

Yeah something like that... Assuming the Prelude flywheel bolts onto that A20 crankshaft, which it may not...

[InAccordance]

Engine ready to be pulled. Everything is disconnected except that fuel line but that won't take 10 seconds.

Header detatches by slip joint so that will stay the way it is. It'll come apart when lifting engine out.

[InAccordance]

Old Prelude short throw shifter fits, got it put together and ready to go.
Going to start tearing into the dash once this storm passes.

[Fixedit]

Good shit! Happy to see this project moving forward

[InAccordance]

Engine out finally. Trans separated, converter and flexplate off (sort of, I put the flexplate back on with two bolts so I could wedge a bolt between it and the block so the engine wont rotate when trying to get the crank pulley off)
Working on the engine stuff now, new seals all around and such and some internal seals too.



Motoring along..

[InAccordance]

Engine work almost done, new rear main seal in, timing belt done, valve stem seals done, flywheel on and timing is spot on. Just waiting on oil pan to dry from cleaning the fuck out of it and going to paint it cause reasons..

[Donnyten]

Interesting.. really into that 5 speed swap since theyre relatively easy to rebuild and theyre lighter, as well as the EDIS. Ur cars gonna be the shit

[InAccordance]

Just wish I had a garage. Supposed to rain the next four days so wont be able to do anything 8(

[InAccordance]

Yay clear day.. progress was made..
Dash out, replaced blower motor that was bad, 5 speed pedals are in and hooked up, working on getting the old shifter out.
Who is the damn genious who put the bolts facing down and the nuts are on the underside UNDER the heat shroud.
Dropped off the knuckles to get new ball joints and hubs/bearings put in.

Swap a 5 speed they said... it's EASY they said...

Just another gratuitous engine shot...

Just need to finish routing the pcv, put alt back on and she's ready to rip. Well, an oil filter too..
That +20hp red paint tho

[Dr_Snooz]

An auto just wouldn't be right for that engine. You're doing the right thing. It's a lot of work, but totally worth it.

[Donnyten]

Guess i should consider a manual swap as well then. Theres an accord at the junkyard with a manual in it..

[InAccordance]

New toy =D

[gcovarrubias412]

Nice. You should just connect a small breather right on the block instead of using the pcv valve

[2ndGenGuy]

Nah the PCV system is way better to have working properly. It vents fresh air into the engine block to help get all the moisture and fuel vapors out of the crankcase and engine oil, and with that pulls that shit out into the intake to burn. If you don't want to reburn, then you should put a catch can before the intake manfiold connection.

If you just put a breather on the valve cover, you're basically just trapping all that stuff in your engine. There's nothing to help circulate in fresh air.

[InAccordance]

I'm putting in a catch can. If I ran it back into the manifold, it would only be on one runner which would throw off that one.

Progress!
Pedals, shifter in. Dash back in and steering column rehung. Just need to put the random panels back in and the seat.

[InAccordance]

MOAR PROGRESS!




She's in!
Not buttoned down fully yet. Had to get to work right after setting it down and throwing some nuts and bolts in the mounts.
Work all day Sunday so wont get anything done but then off for 4 days in a row... it's go time.

[Dr_Snooz]

Sweet!

[InAccordance]

Got the steering knuckles back today, new ball joints and bearings/hubs. Got axles. Sadly I had to remove the header to get the downpipe installed and tore the gasket in the process so waiting on the parts store to get one in. Once I have that, she can be fired up. Off again on Sunday and Monday so should have it done by then if all goes well.

[gcovarrubias412]

Nah the PCV system is way better to have working properly. It vents fresh air into the engine block to help get all the moisture and fuel vapors out of the crankcase and engine oil, and with that pulls that shit out into the intake to burn. If you don't want to reburn, then you should put a catch can before the intake manfiold connection.

If you just put a breather on the valve cover, you're basically just trapping all that stuff in your engine. There's nothing to help circulate in fresh air.

I meant on the back of the block, not the valve cover. But yea a catch can as well

[InAccordance]

IT'S ALIVE!!!! sort of...
After 4 hours of knuckle banging, head scratching, texting another member, and resisting the strong urge to push the car off a cliff... she has life.
Engine is strong, idling good, no funky smells and no leaks (yet).
I had everything done, even put the wheels back on, around 6pm but she wouldn't crank at all. Turns out after above mentioned activities, it's the ground from the battery that is to blame.
Haven't driven it yet cause I'm fraking tired now and am just going to sit here and have a few beers.
Freaked me out though cause it's still on stands and the wheels were spinning a bit with it in neutral. Seems that is perfectly normal after some research. It is chilly here and I did put new pads and rotors on it and the brakes aren't seated yet so there's no drag from them.
Oh, and you can tell a huge difference with the lightweight flywheel just bliping the throttle. It winds up fast and drops just as fast. Going to take some getting used to.

Taking her out tomorrow after buttoning down a few things and fixing the ground issue. SO PUMPED!