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Thread: Weber K 728-38 on an '87 Accord LX: questions

  1. #1
    DX User
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    Weber K 728-38 on an '87 Accord LX: questions

    I bought an electric choke 38 Weber kit and am installing it. My TV cable connects at the gas pedal (whew!). I am aware that while this means I don't have to modify the linkage, I do have to make an adjustment on it at the transmission? If so, can someone walk me through that step?

    Actually, can someone walk me through connecting the throttle, connecting the correct hoses, and removing the un-needed lines/plugging holes? I have the carb installed, but removing the hoses is psyching me out a little. I knew nothing about carburetors before I started this project, and unfortunately I can't afford to pay someone to do this work for me. So yeah, I'm asking for a little "hand holding" here, but I'm trying to learn so I can take really good care of this car in the future.

    Thank you all in advance!

    P.S. I'm going to go out and take pictures/videos of the process so far.

    Video: https://youtu.be/AHbjmtRBnQ0
    Last edited by Square_Bear; 06-17-2018 at 05:47 PM.



  2. #2
    LX User Fixedit's Avatar
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    Re: Weber K 728-38 on an '87 Accord LX: questions

    Sheeit, I opened this thread a while back and left the tab open on my phone forgetting to reply. Have you found the 3geez facebook page? Honestly you might get some backlash from some members but ignore them, I’d ask on there just in case someone nice sees your post and shares their knowledge. I’m disappointed that no one has replied to you here.

    I haven’t done this swap myself but I plan to in the future. As far as I know, you’ll only need vacuum advance hoses and PCV hoses going to the carb. The vacuum advance hose (they come from the distributor, one goes to the intake manifold and the other to the carburetor) needs Ported Vacuum (instead of manifold vacuum). Hopefully Weber labels their vacuum ports somewhere. As for PCV, generally there’s a port on carburetors for a hose to connect as well, but I’m not as familiar with the carbureted 3G’s so that hose may already have a home on the intake manifold somewhere.

    Other than that you’ve got your throttle cable and electric choke wiring. And if you’re automatic then the trans cable too. As far as all the other vacuum lines that don’t have a home anymore; I’m not sure if they’re needed. There may be a couple that need to be hooked up still but like I said I haven’t done the swap so I don’t know these answers yet. Is there a sticker on the underside of your hood showing a hose diagram? That’d be a good way to find out which is what and then you’d be able to tell what needs to be kept.

  3. #3

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: Weber K 728-38 on an '87 Accord LX: questions

    Sorry. Don't remember seeing this thread and I'm not the best person to answer it anyway. I'm not really a carb guy, but if the question is what to do with all the vac lines, the general answer is, if you don't have to pass smog, you can remove them. There are two lines that absolutely have to be hooked up. One is the line from your brake booster. There should be a big port on your Weber for that to connect to. The next is going to be for the vac advance on your distributor. There will be two different ports on your carb for that. One is manifold vac. The other is ported vac. Ported vac was a domestic car kludge they came up with so they could weasel their gas-guzzlers through smog tests. Just cap that and pretend you don't have it. Connect your distributor to manifold vac.

    I also recommend having as much smog stuff installed and operational as possible. EGR, PCV, evap, etc all work together to improve your mileage and make your engine last longer. If you have any other vacuum driven accessories, like cruise control or AC idle boost, then you want to connect those as well (assuming you have fabbed up the bracketry to connect them to your carb).

    Here's the problem. During this period, Honda made their vac system VERY complicated. The distributor, for example has two vac lines, whereas every other distributor has one. What does the second line do? I don't know. A lot of the vacuum system is controlled by the black box of mystery hanging on the firewall at the back of your engine bay. You won't have much trouble getting the car to a minimal level of operation. If you want to get it really dialed in, you'll have to figure out how some of these vacuum controls work and how to make them work again. Download the manual and spend some time reading through the carb section.

    Keep us posted on your progess.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

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