I'm going to show you the basic tools materials and how I did everything to do my coil near plug conversion. With the external hondarulez coil on plug controller. I'm not going to tell you the pros and cons or why this setup is best that's what Google's is for.
Warning this conversion is not for everyone. First and foremost the car must be fuel injected and converted to OBD1. Majority of these pictures are mine but some of them are not and most of the information come from Ferenc Mikula (hondarulez creator) Johnny CK Loo ( filmwear software tester) steven simmons ( Simmons tuning and performance) this is going to be a two-part deal. Part 1 will be the old external discontinued hondarulez coil on plug controller. Part two will be the latest technology coil on plug Mini
(Tools) basic hand tools, Phillips head screwdriver, wire strippers, Barrel crimper tool, soldering iron, heat gun, scissors, terminal depinning tool,
(Materials) hondarulez coil on plug controller, boomslang fabrication jumper harness or a Ebay jumper harness repinned. approximately 45 ft of 20 gauge mil-spec wire, used for the coil triggers. approximately 20 ft of 16 gauge mil-spec wire use for power and ground wires. You can probably use regular automotive wire to keep cost down. Braided wire loom, cloth wire loom tape, glue shrink tube or regular shrink tube, 4 LS2 GM truck coils, coil bracket to bolt to the head. or you can make your own or Chris (Cygnus X-1) may still have some for sale. Optional 4-pin Molex connector and bullet connectors.
We'll start off with the controller and controller pigtail. The controller has a total of 15 pins pin 6, 12, and 14 will not be used. If your controller did not come with a pre soldered 15 pin connector you'll have to do a little soldering. It's recommended to use some sort of shielded wire for the 15 pin connector and be sure to keep it under 10 inches Long.
Once you get that done. Be sure to label all your wires with your wire marker pad. then It will be time to join your controller pigtail with your jumper harness.
The above picture is the install of the old controller with very high success. Follow the chart for OBD1 column. Wire splice it into your ECU jumper harness. For the box that says A21/A22, choose A21. On the jumper harness Cut it in half and then proceed to connect one wire pin 11 of the controller pigtail towards the ECU and the other pin 10 going towards engine. In the box that says B2/B16 use B16 and that will be pin 15 of the controller. Pins 2 through 5 I use a Molex 4 pin connector. That will be your 4 coil signals. The rest you splice into existing wire. Pin1=A25 Pin7=B11 Pin8=B15 Pin9=A24 Pin13=B10. Always solder your connections.
Once that's complete it'll be time to gut our distributor of removing the cap rotor igniter and coil if you're using an internal coil distributor.
Once the igniter is removed you're going to splice / join the blue wire and the yellow with green stripe wire together. I cut the flag terminals off and slid it through the rubber grommet and hook them up like so.
The wire next to this one will now be your power for your coils. The remaining wires left from your igniter go ahead and cut the flag terminals off and slide them through the rubber grommet. Now it will be time to build our engine coil harness. It's best to have your coil bracket bolted up so you know the distance between coils and how longer your wire needs to be.
We'll start with our 16-gauge wire and make our grounds and power to the coils. Lay one strip a wire across your coils be sure to solder three wires on as these pictures below. You'll make two of these like this.
The next one you make will look like this except it will have about 10 to 12 foot of wire coming off of it. It's going to be your sensor ground and it's going to run all the way back to the jumper harness and hook into B2. That gives us a total of three wires and the LS2 coil take a total of 4 which the last wire your ad will be the signal coil triggers.
This is a picture looking into the coil.(A)is your ground that you ground to the Head or distributor Bolt. (B) is your signal ground and will run all the way back to the jumper harness splice into B2. (C) is your coil trigger signal for cylinder 1 through 4. (D) is your power to power to coils it'll be one of the wires that come from the two pin plug from your distributor
Now be sure to take your multimeter and test all your wires to be sure your connections are 100% if everything looks good now you can wrap it with wire loom tape. Add braided wire loom and Shrink tube your ends. Crimp and solder your LS2 connectors to your wire along with your 4-pin Molex connector. And repeat your testing with your multimeter to be sure everything's good.
Then add your Billet distributor cap and fire it