Yeah 3rd pulls ok, but dont downshift to 3rd on the highway unless you get off on disappointment.
My clutch is a brand new exedy. had like 5k miles on it.
Yeah 3rd pulls ok, but dont downshift to 3rd on the highway unless you get off on disappointment.
My clutch is a brand new exedy. had like 5k miles on it.
Good news! I ordered a flywheel and Exedy should be shipping me a new clutch kit free of charge, today. They just asked for my receipt and said they'd send it after seeing the clutch is 2 months out of warranty. I hope this is the problem because I am not taking it apart to diagnose it... I'll see when the old clutch is out lol.
My brother might take the car for a while though, he needs something to drive (I know right, what a wonderful, dependable vehicle). Should work out fine though, I will help him put on the boat load of new parts that are in the trunk, it'll be fun. I am a little worried about hill starting this thing with a beginner behind the wheel, and I am also worried about the cracked carb that I can't believe I haven't posted pictures of on here. My accel pump could straight up just break off, its patched with jb weld and that clear fuel proof sealant that eats paint for breakfast. I am a little hesitant to swap parts to my other carb because idk it might happen again because I'm crazy and I am pushing the stock carb to its absolute limit. I just don't want a fire... What better way to train a newbie than to throw a car at them and tell them to chase the fuel delivery issues though.
I'm still just blown away by Exedy's customer service. Seriously, they've earned a lifetime customer. No telling how long the kit I got from Rockauto had been sitting on a shelf because man I have got some parts from them that look just as old as the car itself lol.
Last edited by ShiRen; 05-19-2020 at 08:41 AM.
Lol found the pics of the giant glob on the side of my carb... They belong here.
Another update for today
I so went out and put a battery in her, started her up. She runs like the day she was parked, fuel leaks and all, oh and I guess the clutch cinder block. Seriously look at this: https://youtu.be/QTiX-xPZsIo
Since I had another carb I decided to do the worlds fastest vacuum, delete and swap them out. It still leaks! Seriously, why are these accel pumps such a pain in the ass. It might do with some bolt tightening, if all else fails I'm cracking the goop off the old carb and getting the new diaphragm out of it, hopefully that will seal it.
I may have really caught the bug again, carburetors man, this is what they do to me.
New o rings in the accel pump fixed that leak, so maybe she will run happily without being a fire hazard. Pulled the intake off yesterday and I'm just fixing some stuff up. Oil pressure gauge line was leaking so I sealed that back up. My coolant crossover pipe o ring blew, went though all the trouble of sizing a new one (1 3/8 OD x 3/16 thick), before I ordered a pack of 50 off McMaster Carr I called the Honda dealer aaand they actually have it in stock part number 91314-634-000. That won't happen again. Then I just ordered an OBX header out of the blue too, shit header, but better (read: cooler) than stock, I need it. Also found the Vigor rear sway bar, again factory 52300-SL5-003, it was actually cheap, I already had poly bushings waiting to get one. I still have the self control to keep myself away from the Wilwood brakes and Ksport coilovers. My pockets are not that deep... but when this car is back in my hands after I pass the bug to my brother mark my words. I was looking for cam gears, which seem to no longer exist, even from Bisimoto, I noticed Bisi had a sale on thermal intake gaskets so I got one... Probably does literally nothing, but its stronger than paper lol... actually my intake was really hot removing it yesterday, so maybe.
I can't wait to get home and stare at the back of my engine and stuff, maybe I will put some of the goodies I bought a year ago on her. My flywheel and free clutch should all be there waiting for me too.
Last edited by ShiRen; 05-21-2020 at 12:05 PM.
I know I am barraging this thread with posts, but I am going places rn. I am really just tidying things up right now and putting on the parts that I've had for a year now.
Looking through all that I've got, big cv shaft, wheel bearings, clutch cable, fans, more headlights because the blinker fluid is overfull, stainless steel brake lines, fumoto oil drain valve, prelude upper control arms, KYB Excel-G shocks, and front extended top hats.
I was going to cut the springs, but they're shot from the darn cast iron engine. So I did a thing. I'm trying to get some Skunk2 519-05-1650 Lowering Springs off amazon. These are for a 4g civic and a decent price. I don't know if they will work, but they are the closest thing to fitting, they might just work on my custom struts. I don't have extended top hats for the rear, but I may not even get as much drop as they would in the civic. I'd like some input on this, but I bought from amazon for that return policy alone lol. Whatever works out my car is coming back strong.
Here is some pics of today
I LOLed 3x seeing your accel pump!
I don't know about the carbs, but on the FI cars, those paper gaskets fail routinely, just for shits and giggles. They create nasty vacuum leaks when they do that are nearly impossible to fix with the engine still in the car. I wish I had a better gasket on mine...
How do you know when springs are shot? I mean, aside from them breaking.
Keep us posted on how that goes.I'm trying to get some Skunk2 519-05-1650 Lowering Springs off amazon. These are for a 4g civic and a decent price.
I LOLed again looking at your headlight. At some point, I'm going to rip out my headlights, wiring and all, and re-engineer it around some H4 housings. I'm going to put it on a relay instead of going through that combo switch that cruds up, craps out and is ungodly expensive from Rock Auto. There are some fog lights in the Red Car's future too.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
So my springs are shot just because of how much they have settled, drivers side is a lot lower than the passenger side, they are going to differ in length and tension, they are out of spec. Shortening them isn't going to fix the issue.
The headlights that I bought have a cheap bulb holder in them, like a spring clip instead of a twist lock. I don't think theyre that bad though, I have another set I am just going to seal up. The problem is they sit at an angle that they normally wouldn't in other cars. I don't recall them filling up if I just drove in the rain with the lights on. So if you redesign a bit of you headlights, I'd do something to keep the water away from the bulbs. I have another set of popups I am going to put in and I will attempt to do whatever I can to seal them. Also if you look back in this thread I put relays in for the headlights... but it doesn't work how you think it should, I am able to get drls working, but the hi/low beams did not like being on a relay. I've slept since then and I want to say I had no low beams and the hi beams was actually using both filaments. The relays are still in there I think I can switch the wires back and try again sometime.
She runs! No noises, new carb is way happier, shifts great with Delo 15w-40. Im real happy I don't have to start looking for a new trans
Hey Snooz, if you look back a couple pages you can check out the wiring for how I did my headlights on relays. They work now! Turns out one of the relays I used for my brights was bad, changed it out and they work. Had to mess with the combo switch some more, aside from a bit of varnish, the spring in the little pin that puts pressure down on the rocker that switches the lows/highs had collapsed a little bit, so I stretched it a tad and put some cardboard down in one end of the hole, the highs work every time now. Still have to rely on a 30 year old combo switch, but there is no current going through it no matter what kind of bulb you are running, should be much more reliable. I think the stock high beams are 40w iirc, thats 3.3A though tiny wires and copper contacts, my relay probably knocks that down to .2A or less, thats even less than leds.
Car is on cinder blocks now because I put my techna fit brake likes on and found the RR wheel cylinder's bleeder had seized and Oreillys cant get one until tues
Haven't posted a pic in a hot minute, so here she is.
I will regret taking it to work later... like when I go to lunch and its hot as balls.
Probably going to park it back in the garage tonight and get to work on the hvac while I am still getting suspension parts together. I am going to comb the condenser, replace some vent seals, and clean the evaporator. As far as suspension goes, I had to order some coilover sleeves for the rear, the springs are too short, but I am really not worried about the rear shocks, my god they have a ton of travel, I will just shorten the bump stop. I am about to break even with a Skunk2 coilover sleeve kit, but I didn't want those super stiff springs. Depending on how far the shocks can extend once they are installed I may need some extension limiting straps. I would really like to replace all these old suspension bushings, but that looks like it will get expensive if I don't opt for pressing in new ones. I'd like some Cheddas parts, but that's not in the budget rn. Oh well, nothing is blown at least.
That parking job! Good thing you got curb clearance. If I parked my Camaro like that id need a whole front end.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
There's no curb there lol. sometimes I drive up on the concrete and I could park another Accord behind mine, you still probably wouldn't be able to see the car between the trucks that park beside me. I am self conscious about my ground clearance though, don't rub it in.
I pulled the housings off the evaporator last night. Not only did that suck and took me forever to find the self tapping screws that hold it together around the pipes, but I don't know how I got any air blowing through the vents at all with a mouse nest on top of a layer of slime. My AC ought to work a tad better now. From now on, that is a part I am going to replace if I ever drain my freon. If I could use r-134a I wouldn't have even thought twice.
Wow things go by real fast on this car... Went to go work on the AC this afternoon aaand theres a puddle of water under the front end. So this is radiator 2, lasted about 100mi after finding the lower tank was leaking on the stocker, so I pulled this one off the parts car. Welp, the lower tank blew out at its seams again, so I yanked the head. I'm not about to throw a radiator at it and not make sure that my head gasket wasn't blown. It only took an hour and I had bald eagles screamin through me, so I sent it.
It didn't look blown to me, but cyl 1 exhaust valve is pink and the piston has a tiny bit of rust on it, so it might have been leaking.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I can't convert it to r134a because of the keihin compressor. I did not pull the evaporator, I did it all in the car, and it is charged with es12a
I see your point. ES12 is a good choice. How does it work?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
The only sucky part is that your Keihin is gonna leak it all out and you'll have to buy more. You'll do that about a half dozen times before you realize how expensive the ES12 is, and how hard to obtain.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Actually its held in there for a year and I have no noticeable performance drop. Now the seals on my AC gauges did go to shit in a years time, but I bought a case of this stuff, itll last me a while. I will swap in a Denso system with a new expansion valve, evaporator, condenser, and accumulator once I find a Denso compressor and the lines for it... I really just plan on body swapping at some point and I am leaning on a prelude or an Aerodeck, I will bank on an Aerodeck having one.
Small break from the Accord... I just traded my Si in on this baby. Worst decision I've ever made and I am so glad I did it.
Kachow
No pic?
- - - Updated - - -
Oh snap! Nice!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
I just took it to TN and back... already put 1500mi on the car. Great daily, however its a 10mpg cut from the Si I had, if that matters.
Hopefully I can get back to the Accord pretty soon, I plan on driving it a bit more and balance the miles between the two. I will 100% look like an insane person driving a hodge podge race car and a brand new race car every day, my only argument against that is they both have AC.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
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