Well they're mounted. Would be happy, but I'm a dummy and thought screwing a regular m10 brake line with a bubble flare (it's round in the bottom of the caliper) would seal, or at least I crossed my fingers and hoped they would. Ideally you would get a braided brake line for an sei, but techna-fit no longer sells via website, somebody might need to call and verify they will still make them. I figure it is ok to have a hard line running from the old drum soft line to the caliper, as long as you use a material that doesn't work harden, my lines are stainless. I think my solution will be to make the brake fitting accept a washer then use a copper washer like what would seal the banjo bolt.
Also, it would be ideal to mock the caliper bracket up with the rear control arms in place. I got lucky and they barely clear, however you need to put the lower caliper bolt in before bolting the control arms up lol.
It's been a day
Oh also the water pipe on the back of the engine is leaking through a pin hole
Nope nvm I think this the only contraption that will work. Btw, afik sei rear lines are no longer sold
A hydraulic hose place should be able to make you a DOT approved braided line. There two places in town here. its where I get all mine made.
I kind of don't want that long of a soft line anyway. I wouldn't suggest anyone else go this route, but I think it'll work. This is why I want a fixed caliper though, there's no reason to have a soft line all the way to the caliper.
I didn't mention what happened to my front lines though. I looked under the car this morning and found the rubberized coating completely destroyed all the way on both front lines. I can't think of anything that would cause this, heat or chemicals would have damaged something else if it was able to destroy the *entire* length of the line. Luckily, I don't think it does much for holding pressure and it's just to protect the line. Still replacing them, but I need to drive it home.
I called techna-fit, but nobody answered and I haven't gotten a call back yet. I might have to look for somewhere local that can remake these, I'll just hand them the old line, maybe they can tell me what the hell happened lmao. Sucks though, I really liked these lines.
Just everything has gone wrong recently though, idk what the deal is. There's the pin hole in the water pipe, the melted brake lines, my throttle cable stuck (had to shorten it), I had brake fluid leaks everywhere, it was hard as hell to get bled, the engine seems to have a vacuum leak, and my rear wheel bearings aren't pulling all the way up on the spindle and it was downright scary when I found out going 50mph to the inspection station. Passed inspection though... Miraculously.
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THIS OUT OF YOUR DRUM BRAKES BEFORE TIGHTENING UP YOUR HUBS, THE BEARINGS WON'T TIGHTEN WITHOUT!!
And here is how I took care of the ebrake. I didn't know how well integra cables will fit and theyre expensive anyway, so I made an adapter for the original drum cables
Nothing went to hell today! fixed all the issues and thinks look pretty good.
I started to do an alignment this afternoon, that was interesting with only 2 wheel alignment guages. Start with caster obviously, its simple to do, but can be quite stubborn, probably the easiest thing to adjust on a stock car. Then I did the camber, rear first. I have the adjustable mevotech arms from rockauto, I like them! Adjusted all the way in I get 2 degrees on the money, could just take some off the adjuster if I ever want more. The front was interesting with prelude arms... The prelude arms are maybe good for about a degree of camber, its really silly, and the passenger side of the car is way lighter so it takes a lot to get any camber at all, so I extended the slots. The ball joint in the prelude arms does not move perfectly in and out, it will add some caster, so I had to do all that again. The passenger side camber adjustment was much further in so it had higher caster, about 4 degrees, so I shortened the driver strut rod to match. Camber on the passenger side is about 2.25 degrees while the driver side is about 2 degrees without me in it. Now toe is a complete nightmare without making a toe box. Still working on it, but aiming for 0 toe all around. Simple enough to zero the front, just have to center the steering wheel, but I'm also using civic tie rods, so that all needs massaging. The rear is where you have to make a reference to what is straight with the front, and all I know is it really wants to thrust and dog leg. I don't know if it actually a lot, but I can't zero the toe with the front, i run out of adjustment, and one side seems like it is a different distance from the centerline of the front wheel. Tomorrow I am going to loosen the rear subframe and kick the shit out of it, hopefully it moves a little closer to straight, i think that will fix the dog leg and get the adjustment back where I need it to fix the thrust. FUN! Adjustable lower control arms sound a lot more necessary now.
Last edited by ShiRen; 04-01-2023 at 07:43 PM.
That deal with the front brake lines just looks to be a color coating they put over them Still not good but I doubt the lines themselves are bad. I think that one picture the line is kinked.
I took the techna fit link off sticky because they wont answer me either I dont think they have sold anything in years. I didnt want to just lock it someone might get hurt feelings over it.
It was a clear coating, and yes I think they are still good too, but I dont think the steel braid will last line this. I don't see where you are talking about a kink, this stainless steel line was real hard to screw up. They must have stopped selling around covid, I think I bought mine in 2019.
I got the interior in and drove the car home last night. Looks really good (inside) and drives really good. I might have killed my new rear bearings though.
Man I just realized I never uploaded pics of my track tires!
225/45r15 Flaken Azenzis rt660 on the Buddy Club P1 15x8
First ever autocross in this car, and only my second time racing. Went really well. Beat a lot of other capable cars. I have a ton of other things I need to check off on the car that's just going to make it even faster and more capable, and I learned a lot on how to wheel it today.
Biggest thing that needs work is the brakes... still. Not enough front brake, need more pedal ratio, and I think I am flexing the firewall. Once I am confident I think I need to start left foot braking in those slaloms and stuff, keep most of the power on and set the car into the turn. Grip is sure not an issue.
This is as wide as I can go without pulling the rear fenders. There's like a quarter inch maybe less to the trailing arms and I had to roll the fenders
Track was great, there is a section that kind of looks like a slalom if you aren't paying attention, but it's actually a big sweeper, I went on the wrong side of the cones once, but no big deal.
I drove on them for about a day, can't get them up to temp on the street, but they should be broke in now
I don't know why I haven't seen this thread in ages but good work man.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
😂 because I let the car sit for a year, the first updates being like a month ago
Pretty sure they're made in Japan. And they're +32
Car has been behaving well. I replaced the driver side engine mount with a Cheddas one, its probably needed that for like 10 years. Other than that I've just been tidying things up. Stereo controls now have a little plastic panel where the head unit went, wires all tucked away, undertray and driver side fender liner replaced, squashed some rattles, got the hood and headlights a little bit more square, etc.
I did complete one big project though. The car now has an electric speedometer form a 5th gen Civic and it works. The tach is also from the Civic, but the temp gauge I replaced with an Innovate MTX-D water temp gauge because I could not get an actual reading with a stock gauge, and the fuel gauge is a custom little led bar graph powered by an arduino. I'm not going to make a writeup about it because I didn't document it and I don't expect anyone to be able to follow it, but if anyone is really interested I can do my best. Its 90% complete, really just have to tidy up some light leaks and hopefully fix the dark spot in the tach. But here is what it looks like now.
Unfortunately the final drive is not the same as a Civic so the speedo is off, but I moved the needle and its pretty close, main issue is the odometer is super fast. It wasn't right with the stock gauge anyway because I run 23" tires, so I don't really care.
Oh and the car has rolled out of its parking spot twice now when I used just the ebrake. Don't rear disk brake swap unless you come to terms with the fact that the ebrake won't work very good lol.
Last edited by ShiRen; 09-13-2023 at 11:48 AM.
Nice, looks good.
How many clicks do you get when you pull the ebrake up. May need to adjust it so its tighter, shop manual says 7-11 clicks.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
I have adjusted it, probably going to do it again. I have to pull it until I can't lol then I shake the car and make sure I don't hear it slip.
Try pressing the brake pedal down when you set it see if that helps.
It doesn't. I adjusted the cables but I might have to modify the adapters for the calipers to the stock cables because I think I bottomed out the adjustment thread. Just needs a new hole for the bolt. I made the mistake of not loosening the cables when I made it, so I basically started at half adjustment.
Anyone notice their cars burning oil at high rpm? If I redline it in 1st and then get off it it will smell like oil in the cabin, sometimes I get a plume of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust if I idle shortly after. I am assuming my oil control rings are not doing too hot. You'd think the back of my block would be showered with oil residue from blow by coming out to of the black box thats vta, but maybe my compression rings are actually still in decent shape. My cylinder walls look like about what you would expect out of a 200k mi engine.
Also, no visible oil consumption. I just wish I had the means to start putting together my other engine with b20 pistons right about now.
Sent an oil sample off to Blackstone. It is due for a change so oil might have thinned out, exasperating the burning. Depending on the results I'll go to a 5w50, 10w60, or 20w50, whatever is most available and costs less. It has Rotella T6 5w40 in it, which is no longer cheap anyway.
Do you know what your compression numbers are? Also have you ever refreshed your valve stem seals?
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
No and no 😂 I really do not like removing the spark plugs in fear of cross threading them. I think I did a compression test when I did the head gasket and and they were all fine, but it's hard to judge ring health with a compression test unless it's really bad, valves have a way bigger effect. Haven't done the valve stem seals because it doesn't smoke on startup, I don't think I get much valve buildup either.
I'll do a compression test soon, but I need to find my leak down tester too, I'd like to do both tests at once
I think if your piston rings are real bad you can hear air escaping into the crank case during a leakdown test. I also think its hard to tell where the air is coming from unless you take the valve cover off because it is all connected via the oil hole drains.
Also check if you have excessive blowby. At idle, take your oil cap off, is it blowing anything out of there. Nothing should be coming out at idle.
As for your spark plugs. Blow compressed air around the spark plug while the plug is still in there to remove any dirt. Take the plug out and if its dirty, put some carb cleaner on a rag and clean the first few threads, this will greatly help threading them in correctly when the threads are completely clean.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I