cv axle

[caarman]

Hi All,
Can anyone let me know if they have a good experience with any non-OEM CV axle for a '89 Accord LXi with manual transmission?
I was going to replace the left (driver's) side with a Honda one but alas Honda doesn't sell them as a complete axle - it is missing the inner joint which seemed to be the problem with mine.

I just had a CarQuest new axle (not re-manufactured) installed and it is still making the clicking/knocking sounds when I make a left turn. I'm really baffled as I am not sure if the fit might not be right or I possibly got a bad axle.

Thanks so much!

[caarman]

Hi All,
Can anyone let me know if they have a good experience with any non-OEM CV axle for a '89 Accord LXi with manual transmission?
I was going to replace the left (driver's) side with a Honda one but alas Honda doesn't sell them as a complete axle - it is missing the inner joint which seemed to be the problem with mine.

I just had a CarQuest new axle (not re-manufactured) installed and it is still making the clicking/knocking sounds when I make a left turn. I'm really baffled as I am not sure if the fit might not be right or I possibly got a bad axle.

Thanks so much!

It is possible I also have a bad CV right joint. I could never understand why this is so difficult to figure out/there is no rule as to which CV joint is affected - I only hear clicks on left turns so in this case it may well be the right CV joint (I always thought it meant the left CV joint is bad).

[gcovarrubias412]

Hi All,
Can anyone let me know if they have a good experience with any non-OEM CV axle for a '89 Accord LXi with manual transmission?
I was going to replace the left (driver's) side with a Honda one but alas Honda doesn't sell them as a complete axle - it is missing the inner joint which seemed to be the problem with mine.

I just had a CarQuest new axle (not re-manufactured) installed and it is still making the clicking/knocking sounds when I make a left turn. I'm really baffled as I am not sure if the fit might not be right or I possibly got a bad axle.

Thanks so much!

Only when you turn left? Or turning right too?

Edit: Never mind, i hadn’t seen the other post.

[caarman]

Only when you turn left? Or turning right too?

Edit: Never mind, i hadn’t seen the other post.

Thanks for your reply- the clicks are only on left turns. I was told that the left CV axle inner joint boot was cracked and the axle had play. After replacing it, I was hoping it will fix all the problems but no. It must be that the right CV joint was making the clicks all along.

[Oldblueaccord]

Usually if the boot is torn the joint is shot it just takes a little dirt to wear out a CV.

That being said parts store remans are usually junk it may take more than one to fix the problem.

[carotman]

I'm not even sure the inner joint can click. When you turn the wheels, the inner joint barely moves.

The job of the inner joint is to move with suspension travel.

[caarman]

I'm not even sure the inner joint can click. When you turn the wheels, the inner joint barely moves.

The job of the inner joint is to move with suspension travel.

Thanks. I actually would have replaced both axles at the same time but labor for this job is expensive for what I can afford now. They like to charge you 11/2 hr per side. When I looked at YT videos it seemed pretty straightforward (especially Hondas) but what do I know. The mechanic actually replaced the left axle on my car in about 40 min but still charged me 1.5 hours because he had help so he did faster he said.

Come to think of it clicks are worst on left turns but also occasionally I get them on right turns so definitely the clicks weren't helped by replacing the axle. On the bright side it has helped with the handling of the car (I was getting vibrations on the highway at around 65 mph or on acceleration going up on inclines) so it fixed that luckily.

[gcovarrubias412]

Ohhhhh it clicks both ways? Its gonna be the rack and pinion bud!

[caarman]

Ohhhhh it clicks both ways? Its gonna be the rack and pinion bud!

Thanks. I was suspecting that too (also I was told of issues with the rack and pinion too). The only thing I am confused about is the sound (clicks, actually more like light knocking) being the same in both instances (CV joints and rack and pinion issues). I've heard this light knocking sounds in the past on other cars and it always seemed to be linked to bad CV joints. But it would make sense that rack and pinion is going bad too.

[gcovarrubias412]

Thanks. I was suspecting that too (also I was told of issues with the rack and pinion too). The only thing I am confused about is the sound (clicks, actually more like light knocking) being the same in both instances (CV joints and rack and pinion issues). I've heard this light knocking sounds in the past on other cars and it always seemed to be linked to bad CV joints. But it would make sense that rack and pinion is going bad too.

I’m almost 100% sure its the r and p, cause that explains the marble rolling sound and the shaking/vibrations at highway speeds. Might also wanna check your rotors for warping. If theyre warped, that’ll cause your steering wheel to shake when you’re braking

[caarman]

I’m almost 100% sure its the r and p, cause that explains the marble rolling sound and the shaking/vibrations at highway speeds. Might also wanna check your rotors for warping. If theyre warped, that’ll cause your steering wheel to shake when you’re braking

Thanks. The steering wheel vibrations were fixed by replacing the left axle luckily (which had play due to a cracked inner joint boot). I was getting them at certain speeds (65 mph or so or on inclines on highway). The front brake rotors and pads were recently replaced so hope no issues there. Rack and pinion will be something I'll have to keep on eye on. Btw I am hearing the clicking on turns only at low speeds (in town) and especially when taking a sharp turn and it's mostly as the wheel reverts itself back to center (I bet this might mean rack and pinion huh... just my luck).

[caarman]

[QUOTE=caarman;1211171]Thanks. The steering wheel vibrations were fixed by replacing the left axle luckily (which had play due to a cracked inner joint boot). I was getting them at certain speeds (65 mph or so or on inclines on highway). The front brake rotors and pads were recently replaced so hope no issues there. Rack and pinion will be something I'll have to keep on eye on. Btw I am hearing the clicking on turns only at low speeds (in town) and especially when taking a sharp turn and it's mostly as the wheel reverts itself back to center - it sounds more like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2c1nxR7aq1o&t=0m10s

[Dr_Snooz]

I've been running EMPI axles for the last 9 years. They haven't caused any problems, but one of the boots just blew out, so I'll be replacing that before long. Axles are so cheap on Rock Auto now, you can afford to take a flyer on a no-name.

You can confirm the axles by taking your car to a parking lot. Turn the steering wheel to lock and drive around in a circle. If you hear clicking, it's the axles. If you only hear clicking while turning the steering wheel, then it could be the rack.

Axles can be a challenge to replace and it's a fairly major suspension job to do. Getting the spindle nuts loose can be especially difficult. You can always drive the car down to the shop and ask them to break them loose, then re-torque them and drive home to loosen them again yourself without too much trouble. Depending on your situation, breaking the ball joints loose can also be a challenge. Pickle forks work best for that, but will destroy the dust boots and you'll have to replace the boots immediately (they're hard to find) or the entire joint later one. I wouldn't recommend this as your first excursion into doing your own work, but if you have some experience, you can give it a shot. Download the manual in my sig and read through the instructions for the repair to see what's all involved. If you buy all the tools you need to complete the job, you'll save some money and still have the tools for the next job. We're here to help if you have trouble.

Replacing the rack is a nightmare and even very experienced guys struggle with it.

[caarman]

I've been running EMPI axles for the last 9 years. They haven't caused any problems, but one of the boots just blew out, so I'll be replacing that before long. Axles are so cheap on Rock Auto now, you can afford to take a flyer on a no-name.

You can confirm the axles by taking your car to a parking lot. Turn the steering wheel to lock and drive around in a circle. If you hear clicking, it's the axles. If you only hear clicking while turning the steering wheel, then it could be the rack.

Axles can be a challenge to replace and it's a fairly major suspension job to do. Getting the spindle nuts loose can be especially difficult. You can always drive the car down to the shop and ask them to break them loose, then re-torque them and drive home to loosen them again yourself without too much trouble. Depending on your situation, breaking the ball joints loose can also be a challenge. Pickle forks work best for that, but will destroy the dust boots and you'll have to replace the boots immediately (they're hard to find) or the entire joint later one. I wouldn't recommend this as your first excursion into doing your own work, but if you have some experience, you can give it a shot. Download the manual in my sig and read through the instructions for the repair to see what's all involved. If you buy all the tools you need to complete the job, you'll save some money and still have the tools for the next job. We're here to help if you have trouble.

Replacing the rack is a nightmare and even very experienced guys struggle with it.

Thanks a bunch. I'll have to keep an eye on any handling issues or worsening of clicks on turns. Tbh I mostly drive long distance on the highway these days and other than the suspension issue that was fixed by the left axle replacement I'm hoping to make it out of this winter without breaking down along the way. I recently replaced the front control arms and upper and lower ball joints as well so hoping nothing major until I can afford more repairs.

[Oldblueaccord]

You prolly are ok the vibration going down the highway is the tell tale sign the CV joints ready to blow.

Rear upper control arms on these cars wear in a few years stock and can break check them out as well. If the boot is torn they are shot.

[caarman]

You prolly are ok the vibration going down the highway is the tell tale sign the CV joints ready to blow.

Rear upper control arms on these cars wear in a few years stock and can break check them out as well. If the boot is torn they are shot.

Will do - thanks a bunch.

[carotman]

Depending on your situation, breaking the ball joints loose can also be a challenge. Pickle forks work best for that, but will destroy the dust boots and you'll have to replace the boots immediately (they're hard to find) or the entire joint later one. I wouldn't recommend this as your first excursion into doing your own work, but if you have some experience, you can give it a shot. t.

I used pickle forks in the past and always destroyed the boots. After I learned this trick, I never used the fork again. It's so easy to pop the lower ball joint loose with this trick.

The video quality is bad but you get the idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJR77aN-MDk

- Put a jack under the lower control arm and raise it.
- Jam a socket extension, wrench or anything hard between the lower arm and the knuckle
- Lower the jack

If the ball joint doesn't pop instantly, put your foot on top of the brake disc and lower the knuckle. It will pop 100% of the time.

I usually keep the threaded nut on the ball joint stem so it doesn't separate completely at once, you only want to break it free.

[Dr_Snooz]

Dang. That's buttah right there. You always got the hook up. Thank you.