The two wires from the stock coil the blue and black with yellow stripe wire what are those hooked up to
The two wires from the stock coil the blue and black with yellow stripe wire what are those hooked up to
All that is still as is. Didn't cut anything or remove any stock components yet in case the edis didn't work. All I did was unplug the two connectors from the coil when I was testing the edis. Well that and plug wires of course.
Right now it's back to stock cause I had to drive it to work today.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Nah, for sure.. wouldn't out right bypass it as a permanent thing, just testing things for now.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
What powers the Edis
I see you have your shielded wire properly grounded to pin 7
https://images.app.goo.gl/VffhDWmFU8mYgKar6
First ran it off the battery to make sure it worked, then switched it to the wiper fuse. That one has good power and is switched to the "on" position
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Assuming blue wire is ground?
I just grounded the edis and mj in the battery. Seemed logical lol
Would using the power wire from the stock coil basically trick the pump relay?
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Possibly it may need to see the power coming from the coil wire. And that blue wire is your RPM signal on fuel injected model
Last edited by Shane86; 06-25-2019 at 01:50 PM.
I'm wondering if you got that shielded jacket grounded properly on pin 7. I kind of went through the same deal setting up mine. Those wires are real sensitive and can pick up signal real easy and cause a misfire
Last edited by Shane86; 06-25-2019 at 01:51 PM.
I dont think I do have it setup right. I have the vr sensor wire shielded and is grounded to the body on the sensor end and ran into pin 7 on that end but did not run that into the main ground. I'll have to fix that.
Good looking out.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Pretty sure the carb and fi use the same coil setup. The wire colors and everything are the same in any case.
So blue wire is tach signal.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Yeah try that out.
Ok so.. if I ran a wire from the tach out pin on the mj unit to that blue wire, that should in theory send a signal through said wire into relay?
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Well yea, there it is. So I need to get a tach signal into the relay.
Knife doesn't say what he did to fix that issue though, I wonder what he did.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
I'll try the tach out on the mj unit the next time I get to mess with it.
Thanks to all you guys for the help. 👍
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Many tachometers can accept the signal emitted from the Tach Out on the MJLJ module. This Tach Out signal provides a 12V pulse for every ignition event. You may use this to provide the signal to compatible tachometers, or to provide a signal to a separate Engine Control Unit, data logger, or other device which requires this signal.
From the instal guide. May just work.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Lol posted at the same time
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
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