i had the same problem about 2 years i could smell gas and the spark plugs was drenched in gas it was the ecu
i had the same problem about 2 years i could smell gas and the spark plugs was drenched in gas it was the ecu
Blister your tongue! That's a hard part to replace. Anyway, isn't it supposed to flash codes, or not blink the CEL at startup or something else? I don't suppose it would be the end of the world if I had to swap in a MegaSquirt controller or something. The car would probably be down for awhile though.
I replaced the FPR tonight. The first start was very strong. That's been true of everything I've tried so far, so we'll see what happens over the next few weeks.
On a brighter note, my last tank got over 30 MPG again. That doesn't sound very remarkable until you learn that it's AC mileage. Now you're impressed, right?
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 08-15-2019 at 07:44 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Oh, you're probably right. The starting is better, but nowhere near where it should be with the new FPR. Coming home tonight I noticed the charge light flashing at me from time to time. My volts gauge was reading pretty low too. The alternator only has 40k miles on it. It could be bad, but it could be another sign that my grounds need help. I'll try to get to that this weekend. I don't have any shortage of stuff to do, so we'll see.
Anyway, I'll do the grounds and then the ECU if I'm stilling having trouble. The sucko part about that is the pool of ECUs isn't exactly wonderful. I've tried two different ECUs in this car before and both were bad. There are dozens of ECUs on eBay, but there's no way of knowing whether they work. I'd prefer to have my existing ECU reconditioned. If that's even possible.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I had to do something, so I added another wire from the chain hook on the intake to the shock tower mount. I didn't have a heavy gauge crimper, so I used a hammer to crimp the connectors like a proper hillbilly would (crimper arrived tonight). The car starts and runs stronger and more consistently. Today was shopping day with several stops and it started strong each time.
That's all great, but the charge light still winks at me. Now that I have the crimper I'll do the whole job professionally and we'll see what happens. Maybe I'll do a write-up. Maybe not. I have other things on my mind.
I really don't want it to look like this when the rain starts
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 08-23-2019 at 09:07 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I have a #2 wire from the hook to the shock mount and no valve cover ground (its fugly who tf thought it was a good idea to put that there)... Are you sure your alternator is good because thats really what this is sounding like... unless your bat-body ground is shit too.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
I managed to get it all done last weekend. I had company and any work on the siding went straight out the window, so to speak, which left time to do the Big 3 upgrade. Every start since has been strong. Hot, cold, whatever. It's all been great. The car is almost back to its old 2 cranks and fire routine. It also seems to run a little stronger, smoother and more consistent too. I'm going to call this one solved (again. LOL). The charge light still winks at me though. Probably more ground stuff that I'll dig into at some point.
This was a fun one for sure. I did a lot of Easter egging, changing coil, injectors, sensors, wires, FPR, etc. Of that list though, the only things I felt like I didn't need were the coil and TW sensor. Everything else had been on my mind. The parts were all really old, as in original '89 vintage stuff. I kept wondering how much longer they'd go, and how I would know when they failed. (A few other items on my mind still are the suspension bushings, shocks and springs.)
Anyway, here's the hillybilly auxiliary ground that got removed.
This is garbage. The broken strand didn't show up in the photo, for some reason.
Yummy new wires!
Installed:
You can see how I changed the routing on this ground. I had to scrape off some paint to do it, but I think this is a much stronger ground point than that little piece of wire on the valve cover.
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 08-29-2019 at 07:28 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I installed a volt gauge for precisely that reason!I would carry your meter and do some voltage checks and see whats what.
Nah. Some big idiot named Dr_Snooz tore it off. Would you believe that the first month after I moved in, I walked around back and leaned against the siding. It was so rotted that my hand went through. Here it is 8 (as in EIGHT!!!!) years later and I still haven't managed it. FML
I did manage to get this wall completed though:
Almost looks legit, no?
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 08-29-2019 at 07:30 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Looks good.
What guage wire did you go with?
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
I went with 4 gauge for a very scientific reason: that's all O'Reilly had in stock LOL. Basically I could get everything I needed at one go. It helps that the factory battery cables are 4 gauge too.
Did my shopping tonight and every start was epic. Super strong, no drama at all. Even the power windows roll down faster; the cruise is more consistent. Yay!!
I really like the battery terminals too. There's always a few electrical items you want to add on to any car, but when you go to connect them to the battery, the attachment is awkward and you end up with a scrambled mess. The single post makes additional attachments easy. Also, the wing nuts make battery disconnections (for all the time I spend working on it) easy. I think the setup is going to work very well.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I feel like im running into this issue. Hot restarts it cranks for 10 seconds then fires up everytime but it still takes much longer than the initial cold start which is a like a half a crank and go.
Do you feel like your gound cables still fixed this issue? I had already replaced my ground cables months ago which did fix all my other issues but this one crept up recently and i feel is getting worse.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
Yeah, this issue is totally resolved with the new battery cables. Check your main relay before doing anything else, of course, but if that isn't it and you don't feel like you're getting the full amperage out of your battery, definitely change the cables.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Oh, and just because I know everyone has been losing sleep wondering whether I got siding back on the house.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
So I'm having a similar problem, starts just fine when its been sitting and after its been running i was holding the throttle wide open to start it, that has been harder to do to where i am unplugging the fuel pump and letting it run on the excess fuel and plugging the pump in before it dies. electrical issues have not appeared to be involved, I have to ask if you agree that it is a FPR?
Edit: FPR did nothing, i dont think its tw sensor because well i just dont want it to be lol going to put new injectors in and see, it needs new ones anyhow.
Last edited by Pudge; 10-14-2020 at 01:21 PM. Reason: update
Its fpr or injectors, probably would not hurt to replace both
https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech...tw-sensor.html
read thru this and see if it matches up with whats going on with your car.
EDIT: https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech...ification.html
and this one.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
No one is going to recommend a new main relay?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Wouldn't that be an intermittent no fuel issue? I would suggest it if the cost is not that high because its 30yo and I know I have heard of tons of people bandaid fixing their PGMFI relays every year by cleaning and retinning the contacts or something, but never on this forum. I used to have a 6g accord, it never had a problem, but I think that was like a $100 relay.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
I'm thinking its the fuel injectors they show signs of marginal leaks like theres fresh gas around them sometimes and I reckon theyre just stuck open and the car can start cold like that because it needs more fuel to start cold. Thats just what im hoping for the new FPR did nothing at all. When she is moving she runs great! drove her 4 hours straight to buy some enkeis with new tires on them for 80 BUCKS total a few days ago. what a deal!
yeah the injector leaking body is an known issue. I milked mine until I got sick of the gas smell all the time.
The TW sensor there is a "paper clip" trick where you make a jumper for the connector and it tricks the ECU to see the resistance it wants. The Helms book in the Fuel section has a chart of the temp. vs the resistance. Wouldnt cost much to jump it out when its hot and see if that hopefully does it.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Updated the TW sensor thread with pics and videos.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Pudges video.
Hey if you could look under your driver seat at the ECU and check the codes from there. There is a little plastic window that folds down and youll see a single red led for the code. I got a suspicion you dash light is off for codes.
To double check your self pull that TW sensor plug and see if it codes out.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
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