Warm restart issue

[Pudge]

I've checked the ECM it hasnt been throwing a code ever, running or not.

[Oldblueaccord]

Ok

[Dr_Snooz]

Yeah, change the injectors. If they are dribbling into the manifold it will cause exactly what you're showing. In fact, I'm pretty sure that's why I ultimately replaced mine. It was flooding out on warm restarts. By morning all the gas has evaporated (or run down into the crankcase, doh), so you have a clean first start.

The main relay almost a maintenance item at this point. Replace it just to be sure. Resoldering is a jury rig at best and won't work if the relays inside it are failing. It's a $50 part + 1 hour of profuse swearing under the dash, then you're done for another 50k miles or so.

[Pudge]

Yeah, change the injectors. If they are dribbling into the manifold it will cause exactly what you're showing. In fact, I'm pretty sure that's why I ultimately replaced mine. It was flooding out on warm restarts. By morning all the gas has evaporated (or run down into the crankcase, doh), so you have a clean first start.

The main relay almost a maintenance item at this point. Replace it just to be sure. Resoldering is a jury rig at best and won't work if the relays inside it are failing. It's a $50 part + 1 hour of profuse swearing under the dash, then you're done for another 50k miles or so.

Okay thanks. I just wasted even more money changing the injectors because it did not fix the issue, what confuses me and has me even more frustrated is how can the main relay be the issue when the temperature of the inside of the car remains the same (cold) but the engine is hot? I have read where the interior will get hot and then the car wont start for the main relay or am i just reading something wrong? I am sick and tired of dumping money into things that " might" do the trick when they have done literally nothing. I'm not mad at anyone but myself here lol just in case anyone took that to heart. I'm trying to get this thing out of its shitbox status and more of a car meet car, something that i don't have to unplug the fuel pump to get it to run when warm. I'm hoping to get some concrete answers on this, you guys have been around these chariots longer than I have and im hoping you could pass down some of that wisdom. thanks.

[ShiRen]

To be fair, the parts you are replacing are 30 years old, it is not in vain

[conozo]

These cars teach you to test and diagnose issues before replacing parts. Have you tried using resisters to rule out the TW sensor yet.

[Oldblueaccord]

Okay thanks. I just wasted even more money changing the injectors because it did not fix the issue, what confuses me and has me even more frustrated is how can the main relay be the issue when the temperature of the inside of the car remains the same (cold) but the engine is hot? I have read where the interior will get hot and then the car wont start for the main relay or am i just reading something wrong? I am sick and tired of dumping money into things that " might" do the trick when they have done literally nothing. I'm not mad at anyone but myself here lol just in case anyone took that to heart. I'm trying to get this thing out of its shitbox status and more of a car meet car, something that i don't have to unplug the fuel pump to get it to run when warm. I'm hoping to get some concrete answers on this, you guys have been around these chariots longer than I have and im hoping you could pass down some of that wisdom. thanks.

The injectors you replaced were leaking pretty bad and needed replacing so I dont see it as a loss. Leaking fuel right near spark,heat etc never a good thing long term.

I updated the TW sensor thread in the EFI section with copy of the Helms manual troubleshooting guide.

[Pudge]

Interesting development, unplugging the green which if im not mistaken is the TW sensor makes the car run like trash cold. I unplugged the white one just now that is next to it and it threw a code. Code 10 to be exact. which doesnt make sense because that is for an intake temperature sensor. I thought that was located elsewhere in the engine bay. ill post a video here in a second.

[Oldblueaccord]

Looking at some of the pictures over the years it seems the sensors positions are potentially swaped different years. Just to make it more confusing.

[Pudge]

https://youtu.be/s-j8ZdIc7HE This thing runs like new with it unplugged. give that a watch.

[Oldblueaccord]

OK very weird.

Your intake temp sensor is on the intake manifold right near the brake master cylinder. There will be a mess of vacuum lines there too.

The Honda ECU codes carry over for years with the TW sensor being 6. I cant really see it being a different make or model problem.

EDIT: Did you ohm it out the TW sensor and see what you get cold and fully warmed up?

I would always pay attention to what the book calls out for the WIRE color first, then the plug color, and then the color of the sensor.

They way the sensor works as the car gets hotter i forces the car to run richer. So like in my case once my car was over heating my air fuel ratio was 9 to1. helps protect the motor in a ham fisted sorta way.

Hope that helps in anyway.

[ShiRen]

EDIT: This post was an answer to another poster thread got spun off.


Dude, cool your head. You're commenting on 5 different old threads the op will probably never come back to comment on. It a lot easier to help you if you just made your own thread. And you're looking at way too many variables. It sounds like nothing is wrong with your battery. If it's turning over strong it's good enough to fire the plugs, old ignition coil systems do not pull a lot of current, you will hear the starter have trouble long before your ignition stops putting out a spark. If you legitimately don't have a spark the first places to look are the ignition coil and the ignitor. And your battery voltage drops while your starter is turning because resistance in a battery increases as current load is applied, it's what determines the maximum current output of a battery, and why lithium ion batteries are more potent at the same voltage.

[Oldblueaccord]

Dude, cool your head. You're commenting on 5 different old threads the op will probably never come back to comment on. It a lot easier to help you if you just made your own thread. And you're looking at way too many variables. It sounds like nothing is wrong with your battery. If it's turning over strong it's good enough to fire the plugs, old ignition coil systems do not pull a lot of current, you will hear the starter have trouble long before your ignition stops putting out a spark. If you legitimately don't have a spark the first places to look are the ignition coil and the ignitor. And your battery voltage drops while your starter is turning because resistance in a battery increases as current load is applied, it's what determines the maximum current output of a battery, and why lithium ion batteries are more potent at the same voltage.

Ill start him a thread when I get home....never gets old.

[ShiRen]

Jesus lol. Didnt have to be an asshole about it. Bro acts like I did when I was 16. Doesn't want to be steered straight, only wants to defeat systems, doesn't even test or replace the current parts he was expecting.

[Oldblueaccord]

I took care of it.

[ShiRen]

I saw that

[Oldblueaccord]

I saw that

I got my 17 dollar brake caliper to try out tonight!!

[ShiRen]

Oh boy, what are we trying out now?

[Oldblueaccord]

Dang you dont watch my videos? Thats my retirement!

My caliper is stuck I got a "new" one.

[Oldblueaccord]

Damn you hurt my feelings more than being called a punk lol from some one thats half my age.

[ShiRen]

😂 fine FINE I subbed. I had only watched most of the ones you posted as a response lol.

Boy, you're really living it up with that $1.50 a month YouTube retirement

[Oldblueaccord]

120 SUBS!

Man Im gonna buy you a candy bar for that thanks! im teared up a little.

So you cracked the code on the drum brake to disc deal!

[ShiRen]

Woah woah if you buy me a candy bar that will be your whole months salary, I couldn't take that from you!

Yeah calipers fit pretty good if you just cut the old mount off lol. They're still not done though, I have to weld, paint, assemble, plumb, and bleed them before an inspection at 2 tomorrow

[Oldblueaccord]

Inspection? Oh boy. we got none of that here

[ShiRen]

It's very loose here, especially in small towns... It's going in with no dash even