Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

[conozo]

I thought years ago they stopped making tokico blue shocks for our cars. I see them available for our cars, they look a little different than the original models with those being baby blue and these are navy blue in color. Am i making stuff up that i thought they discontinued these and they are back now.

I think i blew my rears, one was leaking the other day and now going over bumpy roads the rear end skips all over the place. Got 13 years / 50k miles from them.

[Dr_Snooz]

Buy them and let us know how they work!

[conozo]

I'm considering getting some ksports coilovers then selling my used H&R springs, Front Tokico Blues, and Bilstein Rears since i wouldnt need them anymore.


I really need those rear control arm bushings to come in, need to replace my tires but want to do that after I replace all the original bushings so the tires wear even. Will be getting these tires Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Ultra High Performance All Season

[Oldblueaccord]

I got those tires on my Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT. Im on the second set. There pretty good tires esp in the rain but I wouldnt brag to much on there over all performance handling. They do also quickly flat spot sitting for some reason which I find very odd in the year 2020. I think the treadware is 560?

[ShiRen]

The Continental Sportcontact 6 that came on my Type R were awful. Not bad in grip or anything, but Continentals tire compounds are a bit questionable. 240 rated tires only lasted 11k miles and were extremely dry rotted after being a year and a half old. It doesn't surprise me at all that they flatspot on you.
I put some Hankook Ventus V12 evo2 and they have been able to keep most of the horsies down, even in the rain. For just under $100 I would probably be willing to try some 205/55r16s on the accord... thats really tall though.

[conozo]

0 for 2 today. I tried to order the tokico blues that I found online and they didn't have them anymore. The other item was the rear trailing arm bushing. I guess ksports are in my future and poly custom bushings.

Parked the car for the week her to get a few things sorted out, still getting blowby on cyl 2 so I'm soaking it in seafoam. Then I'll be replacing all the bushings front and rear and also replacing my dash while getting the heat working.

[ShiRen]

Ive had really good luck with marvel mystery oil unsticking rings

[conozo]

Didn't get as much time as i wanted to work on the car during thanksgiving weekend but did manage to soak cyl #2 in seafoam for 5 days then marvel mystery oil for 2 days. Also took out the old dash and put in the new dash, connected the heater controls all up but still no blower fan.

Need some help with this blower fan.
I've been looking at the manual and tested the ignition switch continuity and it is working. The radio does turn on, the heater controls are light up and i can hear the vents move when switching modes. When i measure the voltage from the connector straight at the blower motor i get 8.2volts on high but it does not spin. I assume it should be 12v and i assume that if its only 8.2v this is probably a ground issue but i cannot figure out where it grounds to.

Also my dome light and chime sound when you leave the lights on are not working. I dont think those are related or connected to that circuit in any way although.

[Dr_Snooz]

You're getting power at the blower, but not enough. Trace back in the circuit until you find 12V and whatever component comes next is your problem. It could be nothing more than a corroded connector.

[Oldblueaccord]

Bet the blower connector is burnt toasty. Old motor pulls alotta amps and its fused for 70A,EDIT 40A. I put a 15A inline on mine and had to goto a 20A. At full fan speed I think it by passes the resistors s should be full voltage.


Chimes the box under the radio mount plug it back in.

[conozo]

Also got this mysterious connector under the dash, between the fuse box and steering column, its just hanging out there. Blue/White wire and a black wire, so something is not grounded, pretty thin wire, doesn't power much.

[Oldblueaccord]

No clue on that one. Lost connectors I was always taught to pull it and do a 360 see what its reaches.

[ShiRen]

I'm pretty sure that is the plug to the headlight chime on the panel below the steering column lol. Its been a while since I looked, but I swear its a 2 wire like that... and it would explain some things. Not so sure about the dome light.
There should be 12v to the blower on high, but it should get the motor to run. Anyway, you'd have to do the troubleshooting steps on 22-10 and 22-11 if you haven't already

[conozo]

The connector pictured above is for some interior lighting because its the same color wiring and connector as other interior lights. I think there must be some driver side foot well lighting on the LXI that i dont have on my DX dash.

I did fix the blower, ill post pics in a bit but it turned out to be a bad ground. There are couple of wire block connectors just behind the side vent controls under the dash for the dash wiring, one is a blue 4 pin and all grounds. one of the grounds was completely burned up. So i had to splice the wire and run a separate ground wire to a bolt near the steering column and now i have a blower fan and door chime.

[conozo]

This connector is all grounds and its for the dash wiring, its directly behind the levers that open and close the side vents. I bet this happens more often than people realize with how many post i found with sporadic blower fan issues on here.

I have one cabin tech improvement i would like to take a crack at sometime. A crude version of climate control. It is a modern feature in newer cars that is actually useful but also not a feature that takes your control away. I was thinking i could use my A/C button (since i dont have ac) to turn on the "climate control" which would really only adjust the fan speed automatically by waiting for the heater core temp to be higher than ambient temperature then it would turn the fan on high at first. As the cabin temperature improves it would lower the fan speed down to low.

[conozo]

This week in quarantine I am replacing all the suspension bushings. They are all original, Ball joints are good, they have been replaced recently along with a few other times throughout history. They are all completely shot, some barely existed, surprised it still handled well and was quiet.

The front inner lower bushing was a major problem, the inner sleeve was loose and not attached to the rubber part of the bushing and was really rusted to the bolt, when i unbolted it, it pulled the bushing along with it. I had to use my angle grinder and completely cut through the sleeve and bolt in the very tight spot between the control arm and subframe bracket. I got it out eventually, will need to buy a new bolt.

Now i got another one in the rear. This is the offset bolt that you can adjust toe with, the nut came off easily but the bushing sleeve is rusted to the bolt, i can't even just hammer the bolt out. This one has access to both ends of the bolt unlike the front. Not sure how to get this one out, i would try heat but its right next to all the fuel filler lines for the gas tank, maybe a hammer chisel?

[ShiRen]

No way in hell those cam bolts are coming out. You will have to get new ones from Honda, which are plated better thankfully, but the shank is a slightly different size, you will need to put a washer with an ID larger than the cam shank on it to actually tighten it in the subframe... That was a really stupid problem to have

[conozo]

No way in hell those cam bolts are coming out. You will have to get new ones from Honda, which are plated better thankfully, but the shank is a slightly different size, you will need to put a washer with an ID larger than the cam shank on it to actually tighten it in the subframe... That was a really stupid problem to have

Which bolts are you referring to (which year honda and model) I cannot find OEM or aftermarket bolts for the car. Rock auto said they had one but it is out of stock, no autoparts stores have them, etc. Its the last part i need to get the car back together.

[ShiRen]

I had been good about taking pictures of all my oem part numbers, but I did not for these. I would love to double check, but I believe it is 52387-SE0-023. I wonder if you got the cam washer (52388-SE0-030) as well if it would not bottom out. I swear the shank had to be a good 1/16" longer though, thatd make for a thick washer. Also don't be a dummy like me and find out you lost your old nuts and don't have a suitable replacement. They need to be a very high strength stover lock nut, ideally at least, I am using 2 10.9 regular flange nuts and using one as a jam nut. Here is that part number 90216-SE0-010 EDIT: these actually might be a nylock... I don't remember removing a nylock and using one sounds a little dumb

[conozo]

I found someone selling a used toe bolt kit one on ebay and went ahead and purchased it since I know its the correct size. Also had to purchase a genuine honda control arm bolt from a 03-07 accord to replace the front lower inner control arm bolt. Ours measures 12x80 and this one was 12x84, should be fine with the extra 4mm in length. I could not find that bolt anywhere at fastener stores, apparently 80mm is pretty long. Spent about $180 on those two bolts and 4 of the tiny control arm bushings in the rear. Way to much for what i got but i am glad to get it ordered.

[ShiRen]

Really? I ordered 2 cam bolts and 2 of the regular bolts for the other 2 lcas, that was $50 at the dealer, and I may have bought out all the $5 bushings, got 5 beck-arnley bushings from rockauto, 1 from amazon, and a 2 pack of moog bushings also from amazon. I was really worried there is little to no stock left. I maybe paid $100 total.
I hope that toe bolt kit is right... make sure you can't move the arm front to back once its together, before you bolt it to the trailing arm. I specifically opted for oem rather than the one on Rockauto that may or may not exist, so itd be right, we don't get that luxury though.

[conozo]

Got a bunch of posting to do, will add pictures later but for this year 2021 the car was down for about a month while I was sourcing suspension bolts and extra bushings since i didn't order enough for the rear. I was able to get it all replaced with new bushings and was able to find bolts that work. The front inner lower control arm bolt is a similar sized bolt that actually for a rear acura suspension. Pics of part to come for reference. My window weld large rear trailing arm bushing fill is working great. Car is much less clunky going over bumps, handling hasn't improved much as it was already pretty good. Replaced my blown rear Tokico blues with KYB shocks and I can't tell the difference. I'm using H&R springs.

Then it started to snow big time, did order some new tires from costco. Special order as they werent on their website, they gave me a little fit about my car being too rusty to lift, but i insisted it will work just fine as i knew it would. Rocker panels underneath are pretty much gone because previous shops just lifted the car wherever instead of the pinchweld lift points.

Its been a hard winter on the old honda but its still trucking along. Lots of things on the to do list for it, still super fun to drive.

[conozo]

I've made a decision to do an OBD1 upgrade on the car. I've been researching parts and how to's and will start sourcing everything I need. I am going to do it right and get all the tuning parts and software too so i can learn tuning which is something i have wanted to learn anyways. Part of the upgrade i will also but a B series intake manifold on there to get rid of all the unnecessary parts and ports that are on the A20 head. I will not be doing coil on plug.

Right now the car runs pretty well warmed up but there are a few things leading me this direction. I think the A20 is a great engine but the fuel and ignition system could definitely be modernized and simplified. All the mechanical ignition parts of my system are tired and quite frankly i don't want to try and fix them with other tired parts. My car runs well when warmed up when its warm outside but when its cold or doing a cold start it runs pretty bad, fluctuating idle, really notchy throttle, and the fumes that come out of the tail pipe are bad, it also runs rich a lot of the time.

[Oldblueaccord]

Id start off with a wideband guage even before you do any modifications.

It will give you a good idea what the engine is doing in all conditions. I ran mine for more than a year before I did anything to it. its kinda like watching your oil pressure gauge you get pretty good at predicting what and where fuel ratio is going to be. I logged mine a little but alot less than I thought I would.

[Oldblueaccord]

I've made a decision to do an OBD1 upgrade on the car. I've been researching parts and how to's and will start sourcing everything I need. I am going to do it right and get all the tuning parts and software too so i can learn tuning which is something i have wanted to learn anyways. Part of the upgrade i will also but a B series intake manifold on there to get rid of all the unnecessary parts and ports that are on the A20 head. I will not be doing coil on plug.

Right now the car runs pretty well warmed up but there are a few things leading me this direction. I think the A20 is a great engine but the fuel and ignition system could definitely be modernized and simplified. All the mechanical ignition parts of my system are tired and quite frankly i don't want to try and fix them with other tired parts. My car runs well when warmed up when its warm outside but when its cold or doing a cold start it runs pretty bad, fluctuating idle, really notchy throttle, and the fumes that come out of the tail pipe are bad, it also runs rich a lot of the time.