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Thread: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

  1. #151

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I swear if I change my oil and my trans goes back to being happy I don't know what I will think. I have dumped gallons of water through the engine since I did the clutch. I mean I blew up 2 radiators in that time



  2. #152


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    I think when I had the head refreshed locally during my carb to fi conversion they did not get the 3 angle valve grind at the correct angle. They were all off evenly but cylinder #2 was the worst with the carbon build up in that cylinder. One problem caused another causing the original problem to get worse.



    I dont know why my pictures dont show up right away. They are directly linked to my server as i have always done and there is no restriction to having it this way.


    I'm still having shifting issues with it popping out of 1st and 5th. So far i have adjusted the clutch cable and can confirm it is working as it should. I loosened the motor mounts and re tightened them to let the engine settle as it was before because i though maybe the engine was tilted to much causing a weird angle on the shift rod and therefore i couldn't shift into gear all the way. I changed the tranny oil with new Penzoil Synchromech which is what i was using before. I had a though that maybe coolant had leaked down into it through the speedo sensor which is why i changed the oil but it looked just fine with no sparkles or anything.

    I dont know what else to check. Possibly my exhaust pipe is hitting the shift rod, ill take a look. It feels like it shifts into every gear just fine.
    Another angle on it is/are your shifter bushing and shift rod bushing in good shape?

    The shifter bushing I run is solid nylon and the shift rod I run the polyurethane one. These are pretty much "goto" mods in my book. I did it so long ago I forget to add this. I kinda forget how the stock set up shifts but it was never my favorite until I did these too mods.

    Does 1st and 5th pop out as your driving along or pop out right after you release the clutch on a shift. Ones syncros and one is not.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  3. #153

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    The shifter bushings were replaced a couple years ago. I will take another look at them, i also wanted to take a look under the shifter boot to make sure everything is good there where the shifter rod attaches to toward the rear of the car. It does all feels like it did before the engine work. I will say there has always been a little slop from what i believe is the bird cage bushing but i am not 100 positive on that.

    So about 20% of the time when i shift it into first, as soon as the clutch starts grabbing i will see the shifter move back and when it does that i know its not in the gear fully. If it stays put then i know i am good to use 1st. If it does pop out its instant the first move the car makes, never while i am up to speed.

    For 5th, its not so obvious. I have to go by sound to tell if its not in gear, i can hear a whine and the shift knob does not move even if its actually in gear or not.


    Again, i had zero issues before the engine rebuild. I never had a miss shift or anything like that ever.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  4. #154

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Did you bend the shift rod when you pulled the engine? I know it sounds silly, but I did it when I pulled mine, dont remember how I managed it though. I think I bent the stationary rod.

  5. #155


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by ShiRen View Post
    Did you bend the shift rod when you pulled the engine? I know it sounds silly, but I did it when I pulled mine, dont remember how I managed it though. I think I bent the stationary rod.
    I thought that too dropping the trans it can happen, that thing is all balanced weird.
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  6. #156

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    What do you say oldblueaccord which behavior is syncro and which is not?

    ShiRen - I did not pull the engine, i left it in the engine bay. Only transmission items i touched was removing the clutch cable and took the speedo sensor out of the hole and put a rag there.

    I try something different every day but the last two days of quite a bit of city driving 1-4 worked every time. (I did not attempt 5th) Didn't check the bushings yet because its been brutally cold here recently. Typically its mid 30s during the day but its been between 10 to 15 degrees and windy.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  7. #157


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    What do you say oldblueaccord which behavior is syncro and which is not?

    ShiRen - I did not pull the engine, i left it in the engine bay. Only transmission items i touched was removing the clutch cable and took the speedo sensor out of the hole and put a rag there.

    I try something different every day but the last two days of quite a bit of city driving 1-4 worked every time. (I did not attempt 5th) Didn't check the bushings yet because its been brutally cold here recently. Typically its mid 30s during the day but its been between 10 to 15 degrees and windy.
    Pops out when you first shift its syncros. Pops out as your driving under load is some shaft flex in the trans misaligned shafts.

    Some of the older designed trans the shift rails run under a plate outside the trans and the flex makes them pop when you have a high torque modern motor. I dont really think Honda's are designed this way.

    Just to give you a lol my 2018 Camaro trans t-6060 pops outta 1st once in a great while just like my dads 1969 Chevelle wagon did. They all got there quirks.

    Maybe new oil fixed it.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  8. #158

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Torque can definitely pull a honda out of gear... Ive done it on the drag strip in a hastily built turbo crx. Its not a normal failure mode, but it has everything to do with the bushing that sits right behind the shifter. Its supposed to allow some fore/aft movement, but not wiggle when you move the shifter, if something is wrong with the stationary rod or the bushing then the torque can pull the car out of gear or the shifter out of the bushing. Thats not what is happening here obviously.
    Ive never had an old honda pop out of gear while cruising, but I have had a k series trans pop out of gear when I got it back from a mechanic with barely any oil in it. I wonder what would happen if extra oil was added.

  9. #159

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    New theory here. Sorry i'm all over the place but in my experience problems on a 34 year old car are never common and sometimes includes parts that never typically fail.

    In the last week for several days in a row i have only been driving in 1-4 and those gears have worked every time. I tried 5th a few times and after i did 1st did not work every time. Also if i park on hill and the transmission is holding the car in place, 1st does not work that first couple shifts afterwards. My new theory is that the fluid change did nothing, i am wondering if when that clutch cable slipped the day after my rebuild it loosened the nut on the end of the tranny shaft therefore causing the gears to be loose and moving around a bit. I will pop the cover off the tranny and take a look to see if that nut has moved and see if i can tell of the gears are sloppy.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  10. #160

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    All of your theories are valid, there is a lot that can go wrong in a 30 year old gearbox, and probably a lot that is wrong. Definitely could be something like mainshaft slop.
    Does your gearbox whine at all? That would be a good indication of slop in some direction.

  11. #161

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    5th gear does wine sometimes. I believe when its wines it pops out of 5th gear, when it doesn't wine 1st gear pops out.

    I am very afraid to open the 5th gear cover especially with the intention of looking for something wrong. I have no way of just getting those parts and i have been looking for an entire spare tranny to have just incase for years. I have an automatic junkyard search that will notify me of any accords in a couple hour drive around me. I've never seen a manual transmission pop up.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  12. #162

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    This is why I am very fixated on using b series trans.
    Honestly Im afraid of opening the over on mine too lol. Part of that fear is not finding anything wrong in what I know is a ticking time bomb.

  13. #163

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Still driving with the tranny the same and still looking for one in case i need it when i take it apart.

    Last night i replaced the IACV with a new unit from a 90-95 Civic. It was posted here a few months ago as an option, it does fit but you need replace the coolant hoses with longer ones, just 3 feet of generic 5/16th will be plenty for the project. Also one of the bolts needs shortened or washers stacked. I think i need to bleed the coolant more because during warm up for a minute or less, the idle is high and fluctuating. 2k to 3k in a very consistent loopy pattern. Its very interesting to drive like that. I'll figure it out but its almost comical on how high it is. Tomorrow ill take a video and post it. I didnt know we had anything on our engines that could make the idle fluctuate that much. Definitely no low idle or stalling issues right now.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  14. #164

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Here is a video of it, the revs above 3k are me trying to stop it.
    https://youtu.be/C93GloaZfUM

    I'll go out tonight and take another look, i did bleed the system good this morning but i do have and had a very small coolant leak which i wonder if its introducing air into the system as it sits and cools down. I did put UV die in the coolant so i can see but i think one of the temperature sensors on the thermostat housing is leaking internally through the plug.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  15. #165

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    In the picture of the inside of the throttle body. There are two air holes for idle control. Which one is which idle control? I will say during idle and when its surging the covering the top port basically does nothing. Covering the bottom completely will make the engine stall and the bottom one is connected to the surging idle. We have the IACV on the middle front of the intake that i replaced, then there is the IAC? on the rear of the intake between the throttle body and the firewall. I am wondering if when i replaced a bad part with a good part, all the other bad parts (the IAC?) are rearing their ugly heads.


    Also on the IAC? on the rear of the intake, i took the top cover off with the two phillips screws and inside it is screwed down all the way but if i push the plunger down all the way i get the same high surging idle. I'm not sure if its supposed to do that or not.

    It is my understanding that both are for idle control. One is for when the engine is warm and the other is for when the engine is warming up.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  16. #166


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    In the picture of the inside of the throttle body. There are two air holes for idle control. Which one is which idle control? I will say during idle and when its surging the covering the top port basically does nothing. Covering the bottom completely will make the engine stall and the bottom one is connected to the surging idle. We have the IACV on the middle front of the intake that i replaced, then there is the IAC? on the rear of the intake between the throttle body and the firewall. I am wondering if when i replaced a bad part with a good part, all the other bad parts (the IAC?) are rearing their ugly heads.


    Also on the IAC? on the rear of the intake, i took the top cover off with the two phillips screws and inside it is screwed down all the way but if i push the plunger down all the way i get the same high surging idle. I'm not sure if its supposed to do that or not.

    It is my understanding that both are for idle control. One is for when the engine is warm and the other is for when the engine is warming up.
    well the IAC your calling on the backside of the throttle body is the fast idle valve. its comes into play when the engines cold. Screwing the plunger down just lowers the fast idle speed. Once the car is warmed up it shouldn't effect anything unless it has a vacuum leak I would guess.

    The EACV? on the front of the intake manifold Im not sure where the ports are in the intake I never have taken all this apart.

    Not my best answer.

    EDIT: adding in make sure you have fluid flow to the FIV and EACV. I know some of my small hoses were so bad I was not really getting coolant flow. Also I loosen the hose going out the EACV and bleed air from there too you will hear air escape when you pull on the hoses.
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  17. #167

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Yes you are correct, i didnt have the shop manual with me when i posted. Below is from the shop manual.

    The FIV Fast Idle Valve is the thing on the back by the throttle body. Sometimes called the FITV or Fast Idle ThermoValve
    -(From the manual)Prevents erratic running when the engine is warming up. Cold coolant contracts the thermowax valve allowing additional air to be bypassed into the intake manifold so the engine idles faster. When the engine reaches the operating temperature, the valve closes, reducing the ammount of air bypassing into the manifold.

    The EACV is on the front of the intake manifold. It appears that only the 88-89 models have this. Also to make it more confusing its called the IACV on later model Hondas
    -(From the Manual)The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the EACV and FIV. When the EACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed. After engine start the ammount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150-250pms. When the coolant temperature is low, the EACV is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The ammount of bypassed air is controlled by the coolant temperature. When below 122 degrees F the FIV opens

    When looking at the diagram of this EACV, i dont know why there is coolant running through it at all. There are two wires. One is a ground and the other goes to the ECU to activate the coil/plunger.

    The FIV on the other hand is purely mechanical. I've questioned if mine has been working correctly for years. What are the chances that that wax valve is still there after all these years and overheating in the past. The shop manual test procedure for it doesn't make sense to me. Put your finger on it and make sure there is air flow. Well.. air flow where, around my finger? In the throttle body port? Its so noisy in the engine bay i cant really tell whats going on.

    One more thing i just read. In the shop manual for adjusting the idle speed it says to disconnect the electrical connector on the EACV while the engine is running before adjusting the idle. I can tell you that if i unplug that with the engine running it immediately stalls.

    Can anyone find that thread from a half a year ago or so that presented this idea of replacing the EACV with a newer civic model. I can never find a thread again once i see it.
    Last edited by conozo; 04-08-2022 at 01:05 PM. Reason: last edit i promise

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  18. #168

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    A vacuum leak will also cause the infamous bouncing idle, though it seems unlikely in your case.
    Dr_Snooz

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  19. #169


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...ock-off-plate)

    I think this was the only thread on it...I can find anything else either.
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  20. #170

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Does Pacesetter Exhaust company exist anymore. I was going to call them to get a gasket that goes between the header and down pipe and i cant find them on the internet. I did take it to the store one time to try and match one but didn't have any luck.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  21. #171
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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Try this: https://www.carid.com/pacesetter/exhaust-systems/

    Although I don't see Honda listed it seems Pacesetter is still in business. Also saw Jegs and Summit sell Pacesetter but again, no Honda.
    Last edited by Jamnar_V; 04-21-2022 at 06:43 PM.
    are we having fun yet?
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  22. #172

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    What kind of gasket? Its unlikely that they used anything non standard

  23. #173

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Its this one...well.. whats left of it.



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  24. #174

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Ah yes, the blank one? lol

  25. #175

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Worked on the car a bit today. Some good, some bad, some weird.

    Oil change. After my rebuild where i was fixing my oil leaks and valves i decided to go with only synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles. The oil has improved over the years and im not running out of oil, but the best part was that the oil still looked clean when i drained it. Thats never happened before, its usually black as can be even at 3000 miles and synthetic.

    Weird next. I noticed all over the outside of my car the other day lots of red/brown dirt all over the car and in every crevise. I figured it was clay dirt from driving by a construction site where they track mud on the main road or something like that. But futher inspection its all rusted metal flakes and it is everywhere. Everywhere in the engine bay, wiper cowel, door jams, under the car, stuck to my wheels, in the back bumper, there are even shards stuck in my front bumper. I have no idea where it came from but i would guess some other car or truck was just shredding metal material (bearing, brakes, etc) on the road and during a rain it was washed onto/into my car.







    Next I've had this rattle in the back when going over a bumpy road such as my stone driveway for a while. I honestly thought it was the door or the gas tank ratteling but i jacked up all 4 tires and starting checking everything. I noticed that the rear driver side tire was moving forward and backwards a little and discovered that the bushing bolt for the front of the trailing arm was completely loosened and the only thing holding that control arm on was the fact that the bolt couldn't back out completely since it hit the body first. Obviously fixed that and put some thread locker on it.

    When I jacked up the car and lowered it on the jack stands I heard a crunching sound, one of the rear jack points was giving away due to rust. This made me sad, I know i need to fix the rust and i will but it is such a big job. My rockers are pretty much gone all because shops over the years just kicked the lifts under the rockers and lifted it without making sure it was on the lift points so they are all bent and rust started to form years ago.

    continued...

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

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