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Thread: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

  1. #201


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I moved the post.

    I hit 339,900 yesterday!
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  2. #202

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I hit 240,000 miles recently. If the car didn't sit for so long during my conversion i bet it would be at the same miles as yours, Blue

    My goal is to get to 400,000 on an A20 engine and tranny. I may have to swap them out a time or two but i am ok with that.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  3. #203

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Current Issues
    -Ongoing rear toe alignment issues, too much toe in. I adjusted them to their max toe out position. Still too much toe and now the car drives a little sideways down the road. I am wondering if my H&R springs that have 100,000miles/17 years on them are sagging too much. The car is a lot lower than in my signature especially in the rear. I'm going to jack the car up a little to a good ride height and see if my toe changes.
    -Oil leaks, crankcase pressure. My PCV system is trashed, all the hoses are cracked leaking oil all over the place, dont think its working. I would like to replace it with a catch can. But i am unsure how to go about it because isnt there two ports to the crankcase, one being in the oil pan and one on the block that the breather box plugs into. I guess I could thread a pipe fitting insert in there so i could attach a hose, the other issue is that the oil pan hose needs to be so big i haven't found a hose that big thats rated for oil contact.
    -Inner wheel well rust. I've been welding a few things here and there, definitely need more practice. Tending to burn through the metal, not sure if im working with really crappy thin metal or what. All the things i have welded so far have been super thin and cheap chinese metal products.
    -5th gear. it works but whines so i dont use it, i think its going or a at least a synchro. I'm on the lookout for another trans i can rebuild so then i can swap it out. I wish i hadnt gotten rid of my rebuilt automatic, i would have put that back in by now.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  4. #204
    DX User ThatGuyPeary's Avatar
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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    Current Issues
    -Ongoing rear toe alignment issues, too much toe in. I adjusted them to their max toe out position. Still too much toe and now the car drives a little sideways down the road. I am wondering if my H&R springs that have 100,000miles/17 years on them are sagging too much. The car is a lot lower than in my signature especially in the rear. I'm going to jack the car up a little to a good ride height and see if my toe changes.
    -Oil leaks, crankcase pressure. My PCV system is trashed, all the hoses are cracked leaking oil all over the place, dont think its working. I would like to replace it with a catch can. But i am unsure how to go about it because isnt there two ports to the crankcase, one being in the oil pan and one on the block that the breather box plugs into. I guess I could thread a pipe fitting insert in there so i could attach a hose, the other issue is that the oil pan hose needs to be so big i haven't found a hose that big thats rated for oil contact.
    -Inner wheel well rust. I've been welding a few things here and there, definitely need more practice. Tending to burn through the metal, not sure if im working with really crappy thin metal or what. All the things i have welded so far have been super thin and cheap chinese metal products.
    -5th gear. it works but whines so i dont use it, i think its going or a at least a synchro. I'm on the lookout for another trans i can rebuild so then i can swap it out. I wish i hadnt gotten rid of my rebuilt automatic, i would have put that back in by now.
    Relating to rust, im having the same issue also add in my fuel filler neck from the recall in 93, thinking about how to go about both. thinkin of just wire wheeling back the fenders and sealing it up till next year to get it professionally fixed. maybe the fuel filler neck can be solved with a fuel cell in the spare tire B)
    1987 Accord DX 4D, 105K miles

  5. #205

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Pcv is just a lot easier to vta... I put a filter on the valve cover and a small squared off U shaped radiator hose on the black box. It doesn't spray vapors so I'm happy with it

  6. #206

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by ShiRen View Post
    Pcv is just a lot easier to vta... I put a filter on the valve cover and a small squared off U shaped radiator hose on the black box. It doesn't spray vapors so I'm happy with it
    Can you post a picture of your setup?

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  7. #207
    DX User RI86DX's Avatar
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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by ThatGuyPeary View Post
    Relating to rust, im having the same issue also add in my fuel filler neck from the recall in 93, thinking about how to go about both. thinkin of just wire wheeling back the fenders and sealing it up till next year to get it professionally fixed. maybe the fuel filler neck can be solved with a fuel cell in the spare tire B)
    Surprised you have those issues, your car came from California. Meanwhile mine that spent it's whole life in RI only has a smidgen of wheel well rust & the filler neck & tube are fine.

  8. #208

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I just jacked the rear of the car up 1.5 inches to match the front ground to top of the wheel well distance and it did change the toe but made it slightly worse so that theory is out the window. I guess I need to fabricate some adjustable lower arms. Also I double checked for any bent suspension components or subframe back there and it all checks out ok, so i dont know.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  9. #209

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    Can you post a picture of your setup?
    Only really bad pictures



    In pic 1 I tried to outline the end of the hose in green and the black box in orange. It is a very short hose, the long section is maybe a little over 6". Wish I just had a part number to give you. I believe it was very early on in my ownership that I did this or else I would have
    In pic 2 you see the filter on the valve cover.

    Something that should probably be done in this scenario is add a very fine mesh to the inlet of the black box. Could probably also stuff the hose with steel wool. Just to cut down on the particulate it sucks in.

    The reason I suggest vta is catch cans are done wrong way too often. Usually the crank case gets the catch can and it is routed back to the vacuum side of the intake, and the valve cover side gets one of these filters. That is straight up a vacuum leak. They need to be both in the engine intake stream or both to atmosphere. The other way you often see it is they are conjoined to the catch can and routed back to vacuum. Can't do that because they need a pressure differential and the intake probably also has a stronger vacuum than the crankcase side, so even if there was like a check valve to alternate their flow with the pulsations, one has to breathe and the other one blow, but every single cycle the intake will pull vacuum on the crank case.

    The solutions are in order of most difficult to least: ITBs, with each their own vacuum source, but if pulled from the runners directly they will be allowed to breathe correctly because of only referencing the vacuum of one cylinder. 2 separate catch cans connected to the stock locations, this is the way to go for forced induction. These 2 are the best because there is merit to pulling a vacuum on the crankcase. Lastly is vta... its dirty but it works, and no catch cans to maintain or pcv valves to stick.

  10. #210

    conozo's Avatar
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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord View Post
    My coolant gauge did that to it was just green with corrosion at the connector. I cleaned it up and it stays solid now.
    You were correct. My connector was full of liquid. Not sure which liquid it was but i cleaned it out and haven't had issues yet.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  11. #211

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    In the garage right now trying to figure out a no start issue. Yesterday morning when I went to leave for work the car wouldn't start, so I opened the hood and found the o ring on the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. So I replaced that and the car started up just fine. Today it's the same no start issue but no fuel is leaking out.

    Not sure what the issue is yet but I think The fuel leak was unrelated to not starting yesterday. I do notice the battery gets pretty weak even after 5 seconds of cranking. I've already tried jumping it and I have a charger on it at all times here while I'm working on it. It does seem to crank for a while a good speed and I'm getting 12.5 volts out of the battery.

    EDIT

    -Checked for fuel pressure - Good
    -Checked the coil - Good, even replaced it with a spare i had.
    -Checked ignition switch - was getting good voltage on all the different wires/circuits
    -plugged in my timing light to see if i was getting spark and its not sparking during crank but when i let go of the key to stop cranking most times it will spark once and you can feel it fired one cylinder.
    -tested the igniter and i am not getting any continuity test between any of the pins in any direction. So i assume its bad and guess what....I replaced this part a year ago because of the same crank and no start issue last winter. Another new part gone bad.

    Going to order an igniter but its odd that it sparks once when i let go of the key sometimes, that makes it sound like its a ignition switch.

    Last edited by conozo; 11-17-2022 at 08:45 PM.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  12. #212


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Alot of times when you let go of the key the starter disengaging gives it enough voltage to fire off. I would guess cranking your voltage is under 12 volts. The last two cranks sounds too low a voltage to start to me.

    If you remember the brand igniter that would be great to post.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  13. #213

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    That makes sense on the voltage. On a normal day the car cranks like one revolution then fires up. Its super fast to start.

    The previous igniter i got was from eBay. Brand: Standard Motor Products This was the title: Standard LX539 NEW Ignition Control Module (ICM) ACURA,HONDA,STERLING (But my igniter does not look like the other standard motor products listing because mine has the rubber gasket around the pins, so im not sure what brand it is i cant find any that look similar)

    The new one i just ordered is also from eBay. Brand: DTS Part Number: 26-NM-412 Title: New Ignition Module for Honda - NM412
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/114747578001

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  14. #214


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    OK thanks for the info.

    I think if you check the voltage cranking you will find its under 10 VDC.

    My car will start with the battery reading under 12 VDC but I dont have what the voltage drop actually is I dont think. The book should call it out. It will however crank over and get a no start. I think you know that but some people dont understand a motor turning over doesnt mean there is spark.

    You are not getting any resistance measurements on the igniter pins?
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  15. #215


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures



    hers on of the old Scamp.

    Ill do one of the Accord its outside sitting cold be a good test.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
    336k miles running strong!
    Now running E85.

    Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!

  16. #216


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    That makes sense on the voltage. On a normal day the car cranks like one revolution then fires up. Its super fast to start.

    The previous igniter i got was from eBay. Brand: Standard Motor Products This was the title: Standard LX539 NEW Ignition Control Module (ICM) ACURA,HONDA,STERLING (But my igniter does not look like the other standard motor products listing because mine has the rubber gasket around the pins, so im not sure what brand it is i cant find any that look similar)

    The new one i just ordered is also from eBay. Brand: DTS Part Number: 26-NM-412 Title: New Ignition Module for Honda - NM412
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/114747578001
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
    336k miles running strong!
    Now running E85.

    Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!

  17. #217

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Thanks for the videos. The battery was bad. Only 3 years old, Honda OEM 100 month warranty so it was swapped out with a new one at the dealer and i only paid $42 for the new battery. Research shows that these HONDA batteries are Interstate batteries and for a battery that is warrantied 8.3 years they only last 3 years in my accord and 5 years in my Odyssey. Granted I do alot more starts in the accord than the odyssey. 6-14 per day vs 2-4 but i would like a battery that last much longer than what I get out of them.

    The igniter i ordered 10 days ago is stuck at some post office. I dont think i will ever get it so i put the new battery and the igniter that tested bad back in and the car started right up. As i was putting the igniter back on the cover fell off so i took a few pictures before gluing it together. It looks like its picking up on a magnetic pulse from the distributor. Never knew what it did before.

    The igniters test in the manual states that:

    -I did get 38,000 ohms from terminal D to ground at 45 degrees F
    -I could not get any continuity between A and B in any direction






    I don't know how this car works when every electrical part i test is way out of spec or test bad. Even the coil in the car and the spare coil i have equally test bad according to the shop manual. The Secondary Winding and the secondary winding terminal A is supposed to be 11,074-11,526 ohms and i got infinite resistance. I know the multimeter works because i have a couple of them that get the same results and it works for everything else. This all is pushing me more towards either going no electronics and straight carb again or getting a stand alone ECU (Speeduino or MicroSquirt) to get rid of everything old.
    Last edited by conozo; 11-28-2022 at 11:40 AM.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  18. #218


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Just make sure the ignitor is grounded well when you reinstall and I would put dielectric grease on the pins. You may have to run a separate ground wire,I think there should be one already. The transistor sinks to ground so its important.

    The new coils dont ohm like the book says. I never followed up up standard auto parts on this but I did find my original maybe Ill get around to it.

    The A and B test is just continuity thru the transistor im guessing. So your meter sends a small DC voltage thru and its open one way and closed the other. Im not sure continuity is a good way to check a transistor. If your meter battery is low the voltage could be low enough that transistor cant let it pass.

    The D resistance test seems correct for temp. and again how well your probe grounds effects the number.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  19. #219

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    I wish there was a good replacement for the TEC ignitor, I don't own a TEC anymore, so I can't fiddle with retrofitting a GM ignitor until I get my hands on one again unless somebody else wants to give it a go.

    As for the coil, the stock ones are poo-poo, but any ol off the shelf canister style coil works. Ought to just throw the stock one out the window.

  20. #220

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Update today. Drove the car to my office then tried to leave a few hours later and the car wouldn't start again. Same as before, would crank but not start. This no start issue has always been no spark and my hunch is that my distributor or part of it is going bad and it seems to act up when its cold as in 30 degrees or below. I got it started by heating the distributor with a heat gun then it fired right up. Not sure what part that would be inside the distributor that would cause that but i will be investigating it tonight. As for now if i keep the car somewhat warm, it starts but if not i need to be parked next to an outlet so i can use the heat gun with the extension cord.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  21. #221

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Only other part to go bad would be the pickup coil, which is unlikely unless the resistance is way out of spec (its just a coil of wire that gets a voltage fluctuation when the reluctor swings by), idk if there is a spec anywhere though. The more common culprit is still the ignitor.

    Did you check for a voltage drop at the dizzy, or resistance in the key on power lead and the dizzy body to batt negative? If you have at least verified it is getting its 12v in those conditions and you are certain its no spark then that pretty much rules out anything outside of the dizzy, like the ecu. Afik, the ecu doesn't give a flying hoot what the ignition is doing, it just has the trigger wheel in there to fire the injectors on time.

  22. #222


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    Update today. Drove the car to my office then tried to leave a few hours later and the car wouldn't start again. Same as before, would crank but not start. This no start issue has always been no spark and my hunch is that my distributor or part of it is going bad and it seems to act up when its cold as in 30 degrees or below. I got it started by heating the distributor with a heat gun then it fired right up. Not sure what part that would be inside the distributor that would cause that but i will be investigating it tonight. As for now if i keep the car somewhat warm, it starts but if not i need to be parked next to an outlet so i can use the heat gun with the extension cord.
    Well thats interesting that cold effects it but heat doesnt.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  23. #223

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Looking to replace my fuel pressure regulator with an actual fuel rated o ring. Can't seem to find what size they are. I purchased the $10 assortment size pack at the auto store and none of them matched up. Ordered one from honda directly and its too big.

    My regulator is the newer 88-89 flat style, like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/35451019020...Bk9SR5ab0YC8YQ

    Honda says its this 16741-PG7-005 part number but its not close, too big on ID and OD.

    I have measured the opening on the regular to be
    ID 9.52mm
    OD 14.3mm
    Thickness 1.52mm

    What size would this translate to?

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

  24. #224


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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by conozo View Post
    Looking to replace my fuel pressure regulator with an actual fuel rated o ring. Can't seem to find what size they are. I purchased the $10 assortment size pack at the auto store and none of them matched up. Ordered one from honda directly and its too big.

    My regulator is the newer 88-89 flat style, like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/35451019020...Bk9SR5ab0YC8YQ

    Honda says its this 16741-PG7-005 part number but its not close, too big on ID and OD.

    I have measured the opening on the regular to be
    ID 9.52mm
    OD 14.3mm
    Thickness 1.52mm

    What size would this translate to?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12515312722...pid=1141249589

    Sk116

    This one is listed for every Honda car every made.....16$

    I would use a little "duck butter" on it. O ring lube.
    1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
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  25. #225

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    Re: Conozo's Daily Driver Adventures

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldblueaccord View Post
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/12515312722...pid=1141249589

    Sk116

    This one is listed for every Honda car every made.....16$

    I would use a little "duck butter" on it. O ring lube.
    The SK116 replaces part 16741-PG7-005 which is what i already have.

    1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I

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