Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: CV Boots

  1. #1
    SEi User danronian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord Lx-i, 1975 Chevrolet Malibu Classic
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    1,213

    CV Boots

    While looking at my car for before inspection I noticed the drivers side CV boot was ripped. I already have a puller to install a new axle since the non-ripped boot side (passenger side) is clicking and needs to be replaced. Is it worth it to buy a slit style CV boot($25) to put on the ripped side, or should I just buy the shaft($50) for that side also. Another question: How much of a pain is it to install an axle? I have two manuals for the car but is there anything else that I should know?
    75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
    https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
    Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.



  2. #2
    LX User winkie45's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Vehicle
    1989 Accord Lxi
    Location
    Kaneohe, HI
    Posts
    171
    DONT buy the slit style CV boot. It's horrible. Somehow, your supposed to use glue to glue together two pieces of rubber. All the while there's grease everywhere. It doesn't hold. It's not worth the trouble and frustration.

    It's kinda hard to install a new axle if you've never done it before. After a few times you start to know how to do it easier and faster. So if you wanna learn, go ahead and try it. If you just wanna get it fixed and get it over with, you'll probably pay $80-100 to have a mechanic do it

  3. #3
    LX User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    S.F. Bay Area
    Posts
    249
    Get the new axle. It's much quicker and you'll get a new outboard joint. Remember that you need to remove inboard joint to install the outboard CV boot. This requires the removal of the axle.

    I've seen some good techs replace both axles in under 1/2 hour.

    Claude


    Erika - [email protected]
    '89 Accord LX 100% Stock

    Claude - [email protected]
    '89 Accord DX 100% Stock

  4. #4
    LX User
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Vehicle
    88 LX(x3)87LX(x1)86LXi(x1)
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    425

    replace the whole thing for sure

    it's worth the effort, I did a boot once, I'm STILL cleaning my hands ..and did I mention that the joint didn't stop clicking even after a grease-a-thon?, you will have to crack that big mutha bolt ont he hub however..plenty of tales of techniques around here..use the board search to find em

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Vehicle
    87 Accord EX , 5spd , Manual
    Posts
    5,963
    if the prices as you mentioned so i would get a new axle ! believe me getting the boot out isn't something you would like to do ! and BTW if it already clicks , a boot , or ton of grease won't help !

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  6. #6
    SEi User danronian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord Lx-i, 1975 Chevrolet Malibu Classic
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    1,213
    Thanks for the opinions, now I will just get the axle. And the axle that is clicking is the one with the non-ripped boot, sorry if i wasnt clear.
    75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
    https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
    Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Vehicle
    1988 Honda Accord LX-i Turbo 2004 Acura TL 6 speed/navigation
    Location
    Ridin Dirty in New York
    Posts
    7,377
    yeah totally, its not worth the effort usually unless the axle is brand new or relativly low miles.
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

  8. #8
    SEi User danronian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord Lx-i, 1975 Chevrolet Malibu Classic
    Location
    Boyertown, PA
    Posts
    1,213
    Well last weekend I put both axles in and the drivers side upper control arm. It took about 3 hours since while pressing out the lower pass side ball joint the bolt got crushed at where the holes go through it which forced me to have to file the threads off of the end of it and re-drill the cotter pin hole but other than that it was straight forward. I was amazed that the upper conrol arm only took me 20 minuted to do though, the one thing the manual said to do was to torque the bolts at ride height, but how are you supposed to do that when you dont have a lift and cant access the shaft bolts at that height anyhow? They now squeek when i hit a bump but i know its because i over tightened them, well ill know for when i replace the other side next weekend at least.
    75 Malibu for sale, fully restored, $5,500 obo
    https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=43055
    Currently driving a 95 LS soon to be turbo integra.

Similar Threads

  1. replacing rhf cv boots
    By accord1989 in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 04-22-2010, 07:17 AM
  2. Tie rod end boots
    By russiankid in forum Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-21-2007, 06:10 PM
  3. A few ?s about changing CV boots
    By Cat3 in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-20-2004, 01:35 AM
  4. Cv Boots
    By mattalica in forum Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 02-09-2004, 12:41 PM
  5. CV boots,
    By Mantis88LX in forum Classic Honda Community Chat
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-31-2002, 11:18 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
This website uses cookies
We use cookies to store session information to facilitate remembering your login information, to allow you to save website preferences, to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners.
     
Links monetized by VigLink