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Thread: Full vacuum delete pictures

  1. #1

    ShiRen's Avatar
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    Full vacuum delete pictures

    About a year ago I managed to make sense of the vacuum delete posts even with the pictures long gone. I don't plan on keeping this carb much longer, but I figured I would show everyone what I ended up with after months of tinkering. I daily it as you see it and reliability and fuel economy have been good all things considered. You might want to check this thread before you get started: https://www.3geez.com/forum/carburet...ml#post1223619

    I will warn you that this carb is extremely hard to tune, in fact there is no adjustment whatsoever. I strongly recommend investing in an air/fuel ratio gauge because without it it is hard to not have a lean idle. Please download the service manual and turn to the carburetor adjustment section as well as look over the original threads Running Keihin 2bbl Carburetor without emissions or electronic contorls.

    I will also warn you that messing with your carb and throttle can make your car accelerate out of your control. You will only avoid this with sheer luck or having an inkling of an understanding that overtightening things makes them stick or that air or fuel leaks can do exactly what your right foot can do. Read this whole post and more before you begin.

    You don't need very many tools, all you need is some patience or lack there of. You will probably need a welder and some material to make block off plates and plugs, but definitely get some gasket paper. You do not have to delete everything that I did, you can leave things like brake booster, pcv valve, cruise control (in my experience it works if you hook a vacuum line to it, but only if it was already in working order before you start this), that vacuum res on the firewall that goes into the cabin, etc. You do not need any of the vacuum lines that go along the driver side fender well unless you want to try to keep it, AC will work fine too.

    First off, remove everything surrounding the carb, and that black box, drop kick it into your nearest dumpster fire. Next remove the carb and MAKE A NEW CARB BASE GASKET NOW. You can begin removing things off the carb and cleaning it out. With your fingers, try to rock the venturis (the grey colored pieces right at the top of the carb barrels) if they have any wiggle then tighten the screws on the passenger side. You might even snug them up a bit anyway, but be careful every screw on this carb is soft. Also, do not remove the accel pump (driver rear corner with a rod that pokes downward as you move the throttle) or any of the stuff on the throttle shafts, most of it does nothing but the important stuff will be loose without taking up the rest of the space on the shafts up.

    Now you can take a look at what I have

    I really only left one of the extraneous parts of on the carb, no idea what its called, but its dangling off the driver side front corner as you can see. I deemed it too annoying to block off otherwise. No need to remove your pcv valve or anything like I did, unless you want to. For those that do I found a heater hose at the parts store that 90s twice and is short enough to fit on the top of the black box (the pcv one, not the one you just sent to oblivion) without hitting the intake, both ends of the pcv are open atmosphere.

    Now you can start to plug the holes. I'm going to dump a bunch of pictures here, I don't have much of an explanation for anything else because we are going bare bones operation, when finished it will just run provided that you don't cause any vacuum leaks. There is no condom here. It will be faster, but it will be crude. Planting your right foot can cause the car to fall on its face before slamming you back in the seat in first gear, it will not level out the idle for the AC, it will be extremely hard to drive cold and even moreso with any accessories running. I have an msd box to remedy all of this.
    I will brightly mark everything that needs plugged.




    Don't worry about that big glob around my accel pump, my carb is cracked. I still daily it, proof is in the pudding. Vacuum deletes are recommended by 6 and a half out of 10 doctors.
    As you can see, one hole is plugged with a screw, two holes on back are looped, one hole, drivermost of the 3 up top on back is the power valve, you want to keep that.

    Moving onto the mechanical secondary conversion... As stated in the origional thread this can be dangerous, but if youve done everything above you have no choice. I also don't recall what that "yellow piece" was mentioned in the old thread. It must have been pretty self explanatory, but I will update this part soon. The idea is though, the secondary linkage is two parts, when the old vacuum diaphragm did its thing it pushed the parts together allowing it to open with the primary throttle. We are going to tie those two parts together so that they are locked and the secondaries open every time you bury your right foot. You can see my zip tie that I'm not very proud of, but has lasted so far. The nice part is if it breaks you just don't go fast, nothing bad happens.


    Before you put the carb back on pull the plug out of this hole. This is the idle fuel adjustment.


    Lastly before you start, run a vacuum line off the big tee right central on the back of the intake and run it to the power valve and the inside port on the distributor. You might notice that the distributor also had a vacuum check valve, leave it. In the pic mine is green and the different colored top points towards the engine. Also run vacuum to whatever else you want still hooked up, some of it you may have not even had to unplug.


    Its time to start the car. To adjust the mixture screw on the back, get the car up to temp, unscrew the screw until the idle stops rising, STOP, screw it back in until the idle drops, and STOP. DO NOT FULLY UNSCREW IT. Check your float level, turn the float screw until the fuel is roughly in the middle or upper half of the sight glass, look down the rear barrel and make sure no fuel is leaking from the accel pump jet, it is a pinhole pointing diagonally down into the throat on the top back side, its easy to see it if you rev it slightly with your hand, lower float if its leaking. Turn your idle to roughly 1000rpm then turn on all accessories and check idle again, adjust as necessary. Drive around and check for good performance and no throttle stickage. The spring on the carb are old and sometimes the throttle blades can stay stuck partially open at idle, my secondaries do after a god bit of carb fiddling, loosening the throttle cable and moving the secondary by hand fixes my issues until I mess with it again.

    Please help me improve this if I can, I don't want to lead anyone astray as its a very big step in modding your car, totally all or nothing. I currently have another car with the vacuum system mostly in tact I can look back on if you have any questions. Here is an album of the unedited pictures if they help Dropbox - carb - Simplify your life

    Edit: I should probably note that your air cleaner will probably restrict you now and you will need to flip the lid or cut the sides off, something to just seal around the filter.

    Mechanical secondary conversion:
    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    I went and got a carb from the salvage yard and can see what you are talking about now. I figured out the secondary Mechanical. Instead of a ziptie I used a bracket off the other side of the carb that wasn't being used.

    Accel pump adjustment:
    Quote Originally Posted by ShiRen View Post
    You don't need a vacuum delete to do this, but if you do you probably have a stumble and the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted. This is in the manual, but it is a little vague.

    If you disconnect the throttle from the accel pump you should see the accel pump shaft has a lot more upward travel, with the throttle connected it actually holds it down and limits travel, so you have the ability for the accel pump to squirt for a longer duration. All you have to do is bend the part of the lever that the throttle shaft goes through back towards the firewall. For a vacuum delete it is important that the accel pump squirts passed the point where the secondaries open. Its not really important how long it sprays and its hard to be precise, but mine sprays until the secondaries are about half open. This greatly reduces the stumble when pushing the throttle down. I do notice it is still a little lean until wot, but not much can be done there.

    Looking at yours it will probably be straight at the bottom, notice the bend in mine... yes, this is how Honda wants you to adjust the carb
    I used needle nose pliers, but it probably would have turned out better if I used my flat bills
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by ShiRen; 06-04-2021 at 05:44 AM.



  2. #2
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I'm getting ready to do this, but have some questions.

    1. So basically you only have the distributor hose split into 2 and the Brake Booster? 3 vaccuum lines total?
    2. On the Secondary conversion, is it just ziptied to the arm that attaches to the throttle?
    3. The idle adjustment screw is taken out and left out?

    4.What is the T fitting that isn't hooked up?


    5.Also what is the bottom yellow circled part?


    6. I assume you plugged the EGR and Suction ports on the Exhaust Manifold?
    7. Did you remove the choke plate inside the carb?
    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-02-2019 at 12:24 PM.

  3. #3

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    the passenger side nipple on the back of the manifold should be open after the delete, adapt it down to a standard size line and run that to the distributor and the power valve. On mine, the other side is going to the cruise, which no longer works, and the vacuum res on the firewall. To answer your latter question that is what the white vacuum tee is splitting. I need to finish removing the cruise since Ive decided to use an electric cruise motor and an arduino, that would leave me with vacuum lines only going to the dizzy, power valve, and vacuum res. If you want to keep the power brakes you can probably just leave that line alone unless you want to tee from it, but I was having trouble getting enough adjustment out of the brake booster so in the bin it went. The plate was pretty difficult to make though.

    Thats pretty much all there is for the secondary conversion. its easy to figure out how that linkage works with the vacuum diagram off the secondary. Open the throttle without holding both of the plates on the secondary shaft and only the primary opens, hold them together and the primary will push the secondary open at about half throttle.

    The black idle screw with the thumb knob is left there, youll need it. If you are talking about the screw in the back of the carb at the very bottom for the idle fuel trim, do not take it out, only remove the cover so you can adjust it.

    That was for coolant. Its kind of hard to remove that stuff. If you want it gone I recommend removing the manifold.

    Yes all of the egr is plugged off, looks just like the plugs on the intake, I just welded the ends of the factory pipe fittings shut.

    Yes, car starts fine even cold. It never worked to begin with, when I did this mod when I first got the car I found the choke wire tied open.
    Last edited by ShiRen; 08-02-2019 at 12:39 PM.

  4. #4
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    The idle screw in the back very bottom of the carb. You take it out and leave it out? It's in your 7th picture.

  5. #5
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    No, just the plug that covers it. Makes it easier to tune it later

  6. #6
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    This is an awesome write up man I seriously appreciate you taking the time to get some updated pictures on here of this important mod. I feel like these kind of resources can help prevent someone from junking their 3g when they run into issues with the vacuum hoses. Great detail and quality photos!

  7. #7

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    The idle screw in the back very bottom of the carb. You take it out and leave it out? It's in your 7th picture.
    No, see its still in there. yours probably has a cover over it

    Quote Originally Posted by Fixedit View Post
    This is an awesome write up man I seriously appreciate you taking the time to get some updated pictures on here of this important mod. I feel like these kind of resources can help prevent someone from junking their 3g when they run into issues with the vacuum hoses. Great detail and quality photos!
    Yeah man, I hope it helps

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I went and got a carb from the salvage yard and can see what you are talking about now. I figured out the secondary Mechanical. Instead of a ziptie I used a bracket off the other side of the carb that wasn't being used.

    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-05-2019 at 06:40 AM.

  9. #9

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by BITESIZE View Post
    I went and got a carb from the salvage yard and can see what you are talking about now. I figured out the secondary Mechanical. Instead of a ziptie I used a bracket off the other side of the carb that wasn't being used.

    Im going to test this and if it works correctly Ill probably put it into the guide

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I'm currently working on making a block off plate for the float bowl vent thing.

    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-06-2019 at 06:43 AM.

  11. #11
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I just need to clean up the block off plate and paint it. It's not perfect, but it's good enough for me.



    Cut off the valve from the throttle cable mount.

  12. #12
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I've got way too much free time today at work.


    I also plugged this hole with a bolt and some apoxy. I had to force-ably thread it in, which I wanted it to anyways. As you can see, I drilled out the other bolt since it was too stripped. I don't understand why they used Philips bolts in the first place.
    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-06-2019 at 09:31 AM.

  13. #13
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Lastly, the shit that was removed from the carb. My donor Carb was from an automatic, so it has the TV cable part. From what I could see, the whole carb is the same except the magnetic solenoid in the back, and I can swap that out.


    i

    This is the plug you remove for the air/fuel mixture screw.
    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-06-2019 at 02:06 PM.

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Good work. I got to look under my hood and that piece you used for the secondaries is for sure unused, but make sure you have a washer to replace it and everything else you remove from the throttle shafts. Everything looks good with what youre doing, thanks for the pics.

  15. #15
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I am missing a few things on this donor carb, but now that I know what I'm doing... I can steal some parts off the original that I take off the car if I need to. I still have all the parts, just don't remember how they go back on. That's alot of useless space on the throttle shaft

    Last edited by BITESIZE; 08-06-2019 at 01:46 PM.

  16. #16
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Hopefully this will work? lol

  17. #17

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    that looks good, as long as the shaft moves fine

  18. #18
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Red arrow = don't plug
    Yellow arrow= plug
    Green arrow= coolant
    Blue arrow= loop together with vac hose
    Orange arrow=Fuel hose





  19. #19

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    All good

  20. #20
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Quote Originally Posted by ShiRen View Post
    All good
    I did it right? Yippee!

  21. #21
    3Geez Veteran BITESIZE's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    35 mpg and everything is good

  22. #22

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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    You don't need a vacuum delete to do this, but if you do you probably have a stumble and the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted. This is in the manual, but it is a little vague.

    If you disconnect the throttle from the accel pump you should see the accel pump shaft has a lot more upward travel, with the throttle connected it actually holds it down and limits travel, so you have the ability for the accel pump to squirt for a longer duration. All you have to do is bend the part of the lever that the throttle shaft goes through back towards the firewall. For a vacuum delete it is important that the accel pump squirts passed the point where the secondaries open. Its not really important how long it sprays and its hard to be precise, but mine sprays until the secondaries are about half open. This greatly reduces the stumble when pushing the throttle down. I do notice it is still a little lean until wot, but not much can be done there.

    Looking at yours it will probably be straight at the bottom, notice the bend in mine... yes, this is how Honda wants you to adjust the carb
    I used needle nose pliers, but it probably would have turned out better if I used my flat bills
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20210422_173015.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	201.3 KB 
ID:	10720
    Last edited by ShiRen; 04-23-2021 at 05:39 AM.

  23. #23
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    Is there anybody that still has their vacuum deleted carburetor, hows it running? Like will it cause more problems in the future or is this kind of a temporary thing? And am I likely to pass emissions with it lol? If not, how do you guys get past that and still drive around?

  24. #24

    ShiRen's Avatar
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    As far as I know I am the only active member who has done it. I dont have emissions testing, but if your tests aren't any more than an idle test you can probably get past it with an in tact egr and fiddling with timing. Can't guarantee that though, but people get past them in other cars. I would prefer a better carb, but this definitely could be permanent.

  25. #25
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    Re: Full vacuum delete pictures

    I am intending on doing this to my carb to simplify a lemons car. This thread is great and Im happy to have such an active community here. Ill be happy to rid my engine bay of this vacuum mess. Just curious any issues with your EGR delete alongside the vacuum stuff? Do you have all the extra ports on your manifold blocked off too?

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