Junkyard distributors

[mindlos]

Agghh!! Just checked my cap and its got red dust inside and the distributor rattles. Since I'll be picking up a used one at the junkyard tomorrow does anybody have any inspection tips so that I dont get a dud? This is a Hitachi.

I appreciate it.

[A20A1]

pull the vacuum lines from the diaphragm... make sure they don't crack off when removing them... uless you get the same distributor in which case you could just swap it with your old diaphragm. I think there are 3 different types for the carb alone.

Also check the wires to the igniter. Check for corrosion and or bad connections.

The rotor and outer stators will usually collect the metalic bits from whatever is loose and or degrading in the distributor so thats a nice visual sign... on the tech I normally look at the color/condition of the grease and to see if the hard plastic seals are still intact...

[AccordEpicenter]

Yeah look for the dust again and turn the shaft and make sure it turns easily and feels smooth. You might wanna look for a Toyo Denso instead of a hitachi. A20 is right, the reluctor and stators usually collect the metal dust too...

[mindlos]

Are the Toyos more reliable or better in any way?

[1988starter]

I got a new one from autozone with a lifetime warenty 200 with a 90 buck core but I brought the old one wituh me.

[A20A1]

I like the tec dizzys... but they are hard to find... I mostly end up getting hitatchi's

[markmdz89hatch]

can someone post pics of each of the three?

I don't know which one I have, but it's time to change it in the 3G b/c the mechanic bastards decided to replace the regular machine screws with self tapping ones, and there's only so many times you can remove and retighten those before they decide not to give you a good seal anymore.

[1989 DX R]

My old Dis body was so corroded, the screw hole cracked, so the cap would only be held on by one screw.

[Lester Lugnut]

The junkyard variety may or may not have dist. caps on them. If they do, check out what I posted in this thread. It tells you how to identify the Hitachi and the Toyo Denso(TEC).

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13402

[mindlos]

Seems like the toyo (tec) has 3 mounting while the other has 2. Is that a problem? They need to be long and they didnt have the bolts with them. So how do you adjust your timing with the toyo one. It did not look the brackets slide.

Here's a hitachi

[Lester Lugnut]

The Toyo Denso(TEC) on my Carbed '87 has 2 locking bolts. You loosen, then turn to advance/retard the timing. I forget which way does what.

[A20A1]

Only the tec for the EFI has 3 mounting bolts... The main difference between the 3 carbed distributors is the internal layout... and the tech has a different cap and rotor and comes with an extra plastic cap that goes under the rotor.

[Dutchboy]

mindlos..in the pict you put up...

that is the hitachi one for sure???

Because thats the one that i have on my 89 lx coupe.
but all the rest of the parts are tec?????

And this week my friend sent a distributor for me and it had the holes in the cap coming out the cap like a 5 on a dice as someone said and the way it engaged the cam was different so that it wouldnt run.

i knew that they engaged differnetly but i put it in for fun.....the flames out the carb were colofull!

SO then i got to make sure that he gets me a hitachi.....grrrrrr now i have to wait another couple weeks to see if is actually my didtributor.

Ben

[mindlos]

Yup. This is how they look without the caps. Tecs have a flat side.

Hitachi (left) | Tec (right)

[AccordEpicenter]

toyo denso and hitachi are for carb cars and only have 2 bolt holes. Tec is for the FI cars and it has 3 bolt holes. If you can get a Toyo for carbs, i guess they are less of a headache... Im not sure tho im not a carb guy im FI

[mindlos]

Ya. I figured they were showing me the wrong thing. I didnt take it so thats cool. Looks like hitachi for me!