I hope everyone's Thanksgiving was good.
I had a 4 day weekend this week, so I replaced my rack. It was a lot easier this time than when I did it on my '82 Accord more than 2 decades ago. Here is what I learned:
1. The "steering joint," those couple u-joints that connect the steering column to the rack, were where I struggled the most last time. Honda says to "disconnect" the steering joint as part of the removal process. But that's ambiguous, leading me to believe that loosening the bolts would be sufficient. It wasn't. You need to loosen and REMOVE the retaining bolts entirely. The lower bolt rests in a groove cut into the rack's spline shaft. If you don't remove the bolt, you will never get the rack separated from the steering joint. That little tidbit took me 2 days of violent, uncontrollable swearing to figure out on my '82. What a fiasco.
2. The hard lines are difficult to re-connect and will require some mild bending to align them properly. Don't be afraid to tweak them as needed.
3. Starting fluid is magic. When I did the replacement on my '82, the rack had been leaking badly for some time. The mess was everywhere and fell all over me as I worked. It was the dirtiest job I've ever done. Possibly even dirtier than some of my junkyard odysseys spent rolling in the oily dirt to wrestle out transmissions. The filthiness of the rack job sucked soooooo much. Starting fluid magically removes oil, slimy residue and all. It's like magic. I did my timing belt last week and had a leak so bad it soaked the belt. Everything inside the timing cover was drenched. The block there is so uneven, there's no way to wipe it off, but fifteen seconds with a can of starting fluid left the block looking like there had never been an oil leak at all. A can costs $3.50, which is a small price to pay for not turning yourself into a Superfund site when you do a rack replacement.
Anyway, hope that helps someone else.
Bookmarks