3D Printed Parts Discussion Thread

[ShiRen]

Ah I look like a crazy person who talks to himself now. Fitting.

Sounds like an easy fix in blender... I'd say I'd do it but I will definitely forget to do it.

[stat1K]

i'll talk to you about 3d printing...

[conozo]

What filament type do you recommend for interior parts.

I want strong, UV resistant, high temperature resistance so i was thinking ASA.

Also would like to get the colors correct to match.

[stat1K]

ASA is a better choice than ABS but both are pretty hard to print with unless you have an enclosure for the printer. I like to prototype everything with PLA then work on getting the settings right to make a part with ABS. Color matching is almost impossible from the filament itself but you could do your best with paint after the part is created. I can't imagine how rough that will be with 30 year old cars and odd colors like the burgundy interior to begin with.

[ShiRen]

If you are trying to color match you can always paint you part, but you need a good UV resistant paint too.

[Nazrat40]

Crooked glove box.

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public/...228_110423.jpg

I was pretty excited about this one. Mine doesn't shut enough to make my light turn off. Says the folder doesn't exist now. Still have is somewhere?

[ShiRen]

That was just a picture of his glovebox, Snooz hasn't broke down and bought a 3d printer, though he should.

[Dr_Snooz]

It's on the list of things to buy, along with a thousand other things. I'm kinda waiting for the market to coalesce around some basic standards that get widely adopted. That and the prices need to come down some more. And I need a 3D scanner sooooo much more than a 3D printer. So I'll be waiting for a long time to come.

I will accept donations though.

[ShiRen]

https://en.openscan.eu/
http://www.makerscanner.com/

Snooz, don't you realize you need a 3d printer to make a 3d scanner??

Also standards aren't really necessary, printers just take gcode, so it moves the head around the home point and the print is pretty much the same from printer to printer. The software you use to turn the stl file into gcode will have your printer presets built in.
Taking care of mine has been the biggest challenge. Don't use mine for 3 months, next time I go to use it I get 1 layer and then it prints air... turns out plastic filament "goes bad", take a minute to get it going again, I'm bound and determined to use my first roll.

[JDMhotboi]

I recommend the Ender 3 V2 as a good beginner 3D printer. I got mine from Amazon for $300.

[ShiRen]

Yeah dont get a Monoprice Mini Delta like me, great printer if you are printing for a 1:64 scale of your car

$80 used on ebay though, I can deal with that

[stat1K]

my first was a makerselect v2.1 which is basically an i3 prusa clone and it worked well after doing all the bracing. I just upgraded to an ender 5 pro silent with the metal extruder. I like it a lot so far and it prints far better out of the box than anything else i've tried. Also if you're looking for deals check out comgrow, https://www.comgrow.com/ , i picked up this ender 5 pro silent for 280 shipped because it was a "refurb" it was a return that they added the new parts to, like the new version motherboard and extruder setup.

[Dr_Snooz]

Wow. That's a good price. I think the biggest reason I haven't done anything with 3D printing is because of the scanning. I don't really need to make figurines or goofy vases. I need parts for my stuff, like the stuff in this thread, and while 3D printing has advanced quite a lot, scanning really hasn't. At least not enough for me. I'm happy for someone to prove me wrong. Scanning still looks too much like a giant time suck and I have too many of those already.

[ShiRen]

Put some time into playing with blender. Not all of your parts need to be scanned and not all of your scans need to be 3d, usually a photo or office scan with a ruler in the shot is enough to get you really far

[Nazrat40]

Anyone in here have the files? The dropbox no longer works.

[Nazrat40]

Anyone in here have the files? The dropbox no longer works.

For some reason I wasn't able to see the reply to my question the first time, just ignore me lol

[Dr_Snooz]

Update: I got a printer, and I'm decently capable with OnShape now. I'm printing up 5 more of these right now.

[Dr_Snooz]

My nephew grabbed me a beautiful hood emblem from the junkyard. I've tried to scan with Kiri Engine twice now, and each time it's been rubbish. I can design the thing from scratch in OnShape, but it will be a lot of work.

Creality is supposed to have a budget scanner now. I wonder if it's any better?

[Dr_Snooz]

Here's my original ask list:

The cowl cover.




The seat belt cover, although I think I'm going to re-engineer the seat belts. They're too heavy for our doors.




Throttle cable clip.




Seat belt collar.




Plug wire keeper #1.




Plug wire keeper #2.




These caps that go missing.




Seat belt piece. Again, probably better to retrofit different, newer seat belts.

[ShiRen]

for small things that you can remove from the car, check out openscan

[Dr_Snooz]

Thanks for the heads up. I probably should step up and get a proper scanner though. I know I'm gonna want to scan body panels, bathtubs, furniture, and all kinds of other stuff at some point. I just know it.

[ShiRen]

Well, an actual scanner is very expensive, those creality ferrets aren't a real scanner, I don't know how the hell they're supposed to scan a non stationary object, probably just crappy, inaccurate software. The otter and the raptor use near infrared structured light and parallel blue lasers respectfully, that's how you actually track and perceive depth. Though, for those prices I wouldn't be buying creality. Probably the easiest and cheapest way to get a real scanner is buying an iPhone with LiDar sensors on eBay.
Superfastmatt on YouTube has done several videos about scanners. Basically the only one that can really be relied on is like $10k minimum lol. But a $1000 scanner, or an iPhone is a good point of reference, usually.