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Thread: 86 LXi HonDalorean

  1. #1
    DX User
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    Nov 2017
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    1986 Honda Accord LXi (hatch)
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    86 LXi HonDalorean

    Alright, before I get busy again on today's work I will get this build thread rolling.

    Bought this 86 LXi hatch (5spd) in the fall of 2017. I still need to double check the mileage at time of purchase but currently only 194K. Recently I had issues with severe vibration upfront (driver side) and I decided it was time to tackle the problem. I had been listening to the driver hub bearing get worse over the last couple years but prior to now, I did not have the place nor the cash to do any repairs as I had already sank $700+ having the clutch replaced.

    Being a disabled veteran and unable to work...the Accord doesn't get driven everyday, nor every week for that matter but it is my "daily" nonetheless. At least until I get my fasty back on the road. Then I will work on the this car much more in-depth with a serious swap planned. Though I am considering different versions of the swap that I do have planned. I will divulge more on that as after I get more concept drawings done

    Had to download these pics again! Misplaced them from when I did this the other night, lol Also, its looking more like 184K miles were in the car at time of my purchase.

    Here are a couple pics from when I bought the car...(still learning this uploader and it seems a lot of my pics are too big)
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  2. #2
    DX User
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    Re: 86 LXi HonDalorean

    Fast forward to my current project, doing the entire front end (minus R&P/inner tie-rods) and here is about where I am..

    I will be replacing both hub bearings (still need to source), ALL front bushings and ball joints, both outer tie-rod ends, driver side axle and seal, both struts, brake pads/rotors and rims/tires. Moving up to 15's as I need better rubber that meets my driving style and there were none to be had in 13" and the selection is better at 15inch. Pics of my wheels to come soon (once hubs are back on).

    Still waiting on a few parts and a couple tools to arrive before I can get busy with the rebuild. I will be making a custom K-member since mine is quite worn plus I am sure I can save a few pounds of weight and STILL have a factory style crossmember.

    HMU with any questions, tips, tricks or anything else.

    Oh and I am snapping pics of those k-member rubbers for ya in a few OldBlueAccord
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  3. #3
    DX User
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    Re: 86 LXi HonDalorean

    The crossmember bushings look to be a 2-part deal..meaning that there is a metal/rubber bushing pressed into the k-member (4 total, 1 for each bolt) and these rubber bushings that go around the pressed-in bushing where it protrudes on the upper side of the crossmember. I will get some pics of the other bushings after I remove them from the kmember.

    These have seen better days and my ultrasonic cleaner seemed to have warped them a bit, that is why those edges look wavy.
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  4. #4

    bscanlan's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
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    1988 Accord LXi Coupe
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    Amherst, Ohio
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    167

    Re: 86 LXi HonDalorean

    I too found a couple of mine to be warped. I believed it was the two below sweeping master cylinder.Click image for larger version. 

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    1989 LXi Hatchback - Napster
    1989 LXi Sedan - sold 😒
    1988 LXi Coupe - Old Skool
    1984 Nissan 300ZX A.E. - 50AEZX
    2019 Subaru Forester Touring - DD

  5. #5

    ShiRen's Avatar
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    May 2018
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    87 Accord DX / 18 Civic Type R
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    MO
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    961

    Re: 86 LXi HonDalorean

    https://www.cheddasauto.com/apps/web...s/show/6965536
    What do you plan on doing to the crossmember? This "traction bar" isn't really factory style, but it may be better than messing with the subframe bushings. The biggest difference is the strut rods have a metal bushing, might make it ride rougher or make noise, I don't think it would be too bad if you don't swap out your whole suspension for poly or solid bushings. If you do use a factory crossmember I would suggest machining the bushings out of aluminum. I reckon they are rubber for easy fitment in the factory. Aluminum bushings will last forever, just make sure the new crossmember is sitting in the car square and tight up against the frame.

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