Sudden drop in power then lurch

[Sandwich]

Don't turn the engine over by the cam, you need to get a socket on the crank through the fender

I wasn't even suggesting the timing is off earlier, you need to line the timing mark up in the flywheel to know. I swear I spend half the time fiddling the crank on that mark whenever I adjust timing, everything moves by A LOT with a tiny nudge on the crank.

Yeh sorry, got cam and crank mixed up, was moving crank no worries. Okay will persevere and get a proper idea with it lined up perfectly, cheers guys!

[Sandwich]

now correct me if im wrong, but looks like im 1 tooth out! If it managed to run a few hundred miles seemingly fine (change T belt pretty pronto in ownership so cant compare to it being fine) could it have always been like this? or is that very unlikely and its slipped a tooth more recently? theerfore I should be looking at the tensioner? Gonna start the process of changing it a tooth either way, would be good to know about the tensioner condition though (I replaced it, but couldnt torque the bolt officially).

Cheers!

[Sandwich]

[ShiRen]

If you haven't done a lot of timing belts its likely you didn't get the left side of the belt tight, just slip the belt off and try again

[Sandwich]

If you haven't done a lot of timing belts its likely you didn't get the left side of the belt tight, just slip the belt off and try again

yep, thats the plan, was my first time doing it.
Just gotta get past the crank bolt again, previous method didnt work so into new territory, might try my new blowtorch.

[ShiRen]

You shouldn't have to remove anything, just loosen the tensioner and slip the belt off the cam. Its in the perfect position now to just move the cam ccw after the belt is off it. Don't move the crank until the belt is in the teeth of the cam gear, then you can rotate the whole thing to work it the rest of the way on the cam if you want to. Take the spark plugs out so you can rotate the engine backwards.

I hope that makes sense, but I have never had luck trying to pull the slack out of the left side with the belt on and untensioned like the book says.

[Sandwich]

You shouldn't have to remove anything, just loosen the tensioner and slip the belt off the cam. Its in the perfect position now to just move the cam ccw after the belt is off it. Don't move the crank until the belt is in the teeth of the cam gear, then you can rotate the whole thing to work it the rest of the way on the cam if you want to. Take the spark plugs out so you can rotate the engine backwards.

I hope that makes sense, but I have never had luck trying to pull the slack out of the left side with the belt on and untensioned like the book says.

Thats a very good point, forgot the tensioner bolt stuck out the lower cover, so I just loosen that and the belt should slide off? How do i retension it if I just loosened that bolt, does tightening it and then tuning engine tension it again? Great tip thanks!

I get what you mean with working the belt on by turning engine backwards.

Cheers.

[ShiRen]

You just loosen the tensioner bolt, do not remove it, slide the belt off the cam, readjust the cam, then work the belt back on the cam gear. At this point the left side of the belt should be tensioned if you turned the cam gear ccw until the belt drops in the first tooth, you can rotate the engine backwards (clockwise) to roll it on or pull the belt over the cam if you are he man, doesn't matter, but now you are ready to tension the left side of the belt. Once the belt is fully on the cam gear the tension of the left side of the belt can't change, just roll the engine over forwards and the slack will come out of the right side of the belt and be taken up by the tensioner, then you can tighten the bolt down. Section 6-20 of the manual says you only need to rotate the engine by 3 teeth on the cam for the tensioner to take up the slack, but its not really critical, you can rotate it 180 degrees or whatever, just rotate it ccw and tighten the bolt, then rotate it ccw to line up the timing mark on the flywheel and check your work. You don't want to rotate it clockwise anymore after the belt is tensioned because of how the tensioner operates.

[Oldblueaccord]

Thats a very good point, forgot the tensioner bolt stuck out the lower cover, so I just loosen that and the belt should slide off? How do i retension it if I just loosened that bolt, does tightening it and then tuning engine tension it again? Great tip thanks!

I get what you mean with working the belt on by turning engine backwards.

Cheers.

The tensioner bearing is slotted so when you loosen the bolt it gives you the slack you need....not much but enough.

Also double check the crank TDC mark its usually white and the timing mark is red. The auto and manuals can be a bit different.

EDIT: couple pics here on this thread.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/newbie-i...lt-change.html

[ShiRen]

Good point on the timing mark, mine flywheel doesn't have that it is just degreed out from TDC. I didnt know if you were auto or manual either

[Sandwich]

The tensioner bearing is slotted so when you loosen the bolt it gives you the slack you need....not much but enough.

Also double check the crank TDC mark its usually white and the timing mark is red. The auto and manuals can be a bit different.

EDIT: couple pics here on this thread.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/newbie-i...lt-change.html

I'm manual, have seen the red timing mark when turning crank yesterday (a few deg before TDC) although does look faint, may take a toothbrush to it and see if I can make it more visible.

[ShiRen]

If you are set to the TDC mark you don't have to worry about the red line until you set the spark, which I do recommend you do after changing the cam timing, but the stock spark timing is very conservative, like 4deg or something, soooo feel free to set the timing at your own discretion... there is some ponies locked away there.

As long as you aren't lining the crank up on that timing mark, but it doesn't sound like you are.

[Sandwich]

Changed the belt round, and confident with its positioning, turned it a few times and rechecked it on point. To sanity check I've put the lineup photos below.

Tried to start it this morning and it wouldnt, fires and has a hint but otherwise can't (https://photos.app.goo.gl/RHKyghVcJr1QzUjH6). Listened out for fuel pump which sounds interesting (recorded it on link below), my old car's fuel pump didnt sound like this, do your accords? No clue if filters ever been changed so that could be clogged? Any other reasons you can think of? Had battery disconnected for a week or so, although doubt that went flat? https://photos.app.goo.gl/urEWgGJrCCdenVDy6

edit: just tried adjusting the dizzy timing, was initially set to max advance, couldnt start it no matter where I positioned it.

Ty!

[Oldblueaccord]

Id still splash a gallon of gas in the tank.

TDC looks great Generally the car will start where ever the EDIT distributor timing(spark) is set on Hondas since the bolts limit its movement.

It sounds like you have spark and it wants to start. Sounds like its got good compression also.

Double check the spark plug wire/coil wire and the ground on the valve cover. You might have knocked one around while working on the car.

[Sandwich]

Yeh gonna put some more time to it, mate said it may be down to dizzy timing, but if you say it should run for any position, and it didnt run for either max or the midpoint then reckon its not that.
Will have a proper look at spark plug wires, coil etc. Cheers

[AWH]

I applaud you for not giving up yet and really hope you get it to run. It ran before so should be a minor thing I figure. But minor things can be the hardest to track down.Keep us posted on results. Sorry for not being more helpful.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn E5823 met Tapatalk

[Sandwich]

I applaud you for not giving up yet and really hope you get it to run. It ran before so should be a minor thing I figure. But minor things can be the hardest to track down.Keep us posted on results. Sorry for not being more helpful.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn E5823 met Tapatalk

Cheers AWH, I wish I had an option! got two close by goals for this car... drive it home to mum by Christmas, so shes knows i didnt buy a pile of scrap!
Drive it to the alps 2021 for skiing, gotta survive the long journey.

Cheers for yours and everyone's help, you're all getting me there bit by bit!

[Sandwich]

Never had the ground connected before I now realise, still connecting it didnt solve it confident spark leads are on the right way. Petrol not a bad idea tbf, will look to get some.
could it be radio condenser? or any of the primary lead stuff. didnt really touch much when I changed belt position, and had battery disconnected so dunno how I've done this...

Any other suggestions? I took the alternator belt off so could I have messed with something on there?
Cheers

edit: found this post which is similar problem https://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-ac...-no-start.html
describes same scenario as I had where it wouldnt like to start warm unless I gave it a few mins.

A lot of talk on this issue about TW sensor, gonna give it a test aswell.

[Oldblueaccord]

Anyone else got any wisdom they could share?

I've since bought a new coil, distributor cap, spark plugs, plug leads & rotor. Fingers crossed its one of those!

I wanted to double check that you changed out the cap and rotor and ever thing is pretty new. Changing the fuel filter isnt a bad idea either.

[Sandwich]

yeh cap and rotor changed, fuel filter seems like a possibility, another possible direction was dying starter, have had it recently where car is harder and harder to start without a little help on throttle. could be a whole host of reasons for that tbh.

[ShiRen]

If it is trying to fire at this point have you given it a shot of starting fluid to see if you can keep it running once it starts?

[Sandwich]

If it is trying to fire at this point have you given it a shot of starting fluid to see if you can keep it running once it starts?

Haven't, is that a specific fluid or will some WD40 work? (all I got to hand). I imagine you spray it in the spark hole right.

[ShiRen]

Not wd40 but carb cleaner (not brake cleaner) works, just spray it in the throttle body. Don't overdo it because if it backfires you are going to have a fire, but I doubt it will unless you somehow have the timing 180 out

[Sandwich]

Not wd40 but carb cleaner (not brake cleaner) works, just spray it in the throttle body. Don't overdo it because if it backfires you are going to have a fire, but I doubt it will unless you somehow have the timing 180 out

is it worth setting timing full retard to increase compression/time to spark?

[ShiRen]

You can try it if you want