Anyone near Denver who can help me with transmission removal?

[Jinnai]

Well, I am up for it, but if I can get it running without damaging itself, I'll let it be. It leaks oil very, very heavily, as in, it looked like it was slowly draining while at rest, so I can't use it at a minimum til I fix that leak, the grinding while shifting, and the severe shaking. I mean, it also was blowing something out the exhaust, don't know what but it smelled like a barbecue, and has some rust holes, so it has all sort of issues I could go after, given time

[Jinnai]

Uh what will be the most practical way to accurately check the trans fluid level if I can't reach under the car without jacking it up and I can't jack it up straight?

[Oldblueaccord]

Manual trans its the fill bolt, you check it from the top level ground. Its a 17mm head I think and a huge washer on it. The bolt faces the passenger side tire.

Fill till it runs out.

[Jinnai]

Alright, so today was kind of rough for the Accord. First, I was unable to get the filler bolt off, it began rounding off (used a walmart 17mm crescent wrench) and I stopped trying:

Then I didn't have a tool to remove the oil drain plug. I read that it's 10mm not 3/8th and I sure don't have a 10mm implement of that shape. Then, I noticed the passenger boot is torn and grease got flung everywhere:

I don't know if it's the cause of the shaking, and I only have y'all's opinions to go off of. All I know from what I've read online is that I can't leave it like this or it'll damage itself.
Lastly, here's the oil it leaked after only one day:

It's all under the oil pan. I suppose that's good. I don't know what all might be leaking, but I know only the oil pan is leaking this incredibly.

[ShiRen]

Its more likely you have a main seal leak or an oil filter housing gasket leak than the oil pan, in fact highly likely even if the oil pan is leaking. A bad axle is definitely liable to cause a vibration, yes

Try a 6 point 17mm 3/8 socket on the fill plug, should be able to get it off no problem. Is the drain plug a square? I've slept since the last time I change the oil, but I know I did not use a 10mm square, I don't even think I have a 10mm allen.

[Oldblueaccord]

hate to say it it might be pipe wrench time on that one. it always seams to tighten up over time. Gearboxs are weird that way. yes the fill is 3/8 square,ratchet size.

[Jinnai]

Its more likely you have a main seal leak or an oil filter housing gasket leak than the oil pan, in fact highly likely even if the oil pan is leaking. A bad axle is definitely liable to cause a vibration, yes

Try a 6 point 17mm 3/8 socket on the fill plug, should be able to get it off no problem. Is the drain plug a square? I've slept since the last time I change the oil, but I know I did not use a 10mm square, I don't even think I have a 10mm allen.

That... doesn't sound good, how do I check the main seal? Do I need to remove the trans for that too?

Try a 6 point 17mm 3/8 socket on the fill plug, should be able to get it off no problem. Is the drain plug a square? I've slept since the last time I change the oil, but I know I did not use a 10mm square, I don't even think I have a 10mm allen.

Alright, will do. If it rounds off, I'll drain it and fill it without checking it.

Thanks oldblue, I'll have to just get a longer 3/8 then!

[Oldblueaccord]

Well the 3/8" is the square drive of your 3/8 ratchet. It fits in the drain plug on the lowest point of the trans.



Sorry about the huge picture best i could find a work.

If you cant get the fill plug out I wouldnt mess with draining it yet. Some people do fill it thru the speedometer housing hole but taking off the speedo adapter is just adding complication you dont need.

...and yes your CV joint i bad and needs replacing.

[ShiRen]

That... doesn't sound good, how do I check the main seal? Do I need to remove the trans for that too?

The front main seal is behind the timing cover, it is probably a little more hidden than the rear, but look to see if oil is in or coming from the timing cover. The rear main seal is a little more visible, there will be oil behind the flywheel. You do have to remove the trans to replace it, but it should be done every time you change the clutch. Pay attention to which side of the engine it leave a pool of oil on. Driver side is probably from behind the timing cover, middle is probably from the oil filter housing, passenger side is probably rear main seal. Also look under the distributor and behind the cam gear for oil, and ofc if the valve cover was incorrectly installed or the gasket is bad that will leak, probably from the back corners where you can't normally see.

[Dr_Snooz]

It leaks oil very, very heavily, as in, it looked like it was slowly draining while at rest, so I can't use it at a minimum til I fix that leak, the grinding while shifting, and the severe shaking. I mean, it also was blowing something out the exhaust, don't know what but it smelled like a barbecue, and has some rust holes, so it has all sort of issues I could go after, given time

Is the car you're selling in better shape than this one? Parts are rare and parts cars are almost non-existent. If the trans works, keep the car around and grab everything else off of it you can think of. You won't find another working trans again and it doesn't sound like your engine is doing any better. Plan ahead now.

Hate to say it, but you aren't looking at one oil leak. You're probably closer to a dozen. I find it easiest to start replacing seals at the top of the leak. Leaking oil leaves a shiny trail that almost always points straight up at your leak. If it points all the way up to the valve cover, then replace that gasket first. A fixed oil leak will stop being shiny after a couple weeks. Go back again and replace the next highest seal until you've gotten them all. That's the easiest way I've found to manage leaks.

A CV axle isn't bad until it's been clicking around corners for awhile. Yes, according to Honda, you should stop what you're doing and run to the dealer to have that boot replaced, but a boot replacement is only slightly cheaper than new axles and 10x the mess. If the joint isn't clicking when you go around corners, you can ignore it. Unless you're looking for more work to do. I admit that I would replace that axle right now, but only because I hate all the messy goop being splattered over the underside of my car.

The bolts on the trans like to seize in the aluminum housing and create all kinds of fun. On mine, I remove some of the clutter above the trans, then use my breaker bar to bust the bolt loose. The drain bolt is the same way. It's a guaranteed smashed finger if you use anything less than a breaker bar because it will suddenly let go without warning. I've done profoundly grievous damage to my thumb on 2 different occasions by not using a breaker bar. In fact, my last black thumbnail only recently grew out. The breaker bar gets your fingers out from under the car, gives more leverage and more control. If you don't have a breaker bar, buy one. It will save you several weeks nursing a smashed finger.

[Jinnai]

It's been a while since I posted, but life is pretty busy, with work and school and cars and housing... I sold the second car; keeping a parts car was impossible while living at an apartment, even having two is inconvenient.

A shame about the oil leak, I really need it to not leak so profusely, being at an apartment and all. I'll start at the oil pan gasket, but I'm not in a position to replace any too close to the engine right now like a oil pump gasket for example.

I did succeed in getting the oil bolts off and draining it. The oil didn't look that bad. I also got off the steering knuckle and cv axle. Regrettably I used the pickle for and broke the boots, but it is what it is.
The new axle I have:


old wheel bearing:



New wheel hub assembly installed by a shop for $75:


I managed to get the 5th gear out, at least from the mainshaft. Haven't yet gotten the nut off the countershaft. Here is how awful the gear was, compared to a new one:


Where do I source a new nut for the A2Q5 transmission? I'm guessing I should replace them, as they're crushed on one end.

Here's a video showing the sound it made before I tore it apart:

[ShiRen]

I didn't replace mine lol... Just peened it back in place

[Jinnai]

I didn't replace mine lol... Just peened it back in place

That was my backup plan, I just hope it's not a horrible idea, not knowing what exactly I'm doing here.

[ShiRen]

Its fine unless that nut splits where you peened it

[Dr_Snooz]

You won't find a replacement nut, so that's your next best option. Looks like your fixing some seriously bad stuff. Good job!

[conozo]

I reused mine also, its been fine.

[Jinnai]

Both 5th gears out, looking flattened:



New gears in, looking great:


Everything taken apart:


Everything put back together, doesn't look very exciting:


My brother and I replaced the control arm, CV axle, 5th gear set, steering knuckle ball joint (via a shop that did it for $65), and added new Synchromesh. So far it's working! No more loud noise and 5th gear is working fine. Thanks guys! If that job holds together, I just have to worry about the massive leak, and it'll be non-critical or cosmetic stuff from there.

[Oldblueaccord]

Very cool job on that.

[Dr_Snooz]

Nice work!

[Oldblueaccord]

Keep that's Trans full of oil and stay outta 5th gear under 45 mph and you'll be fine. It will whine in the higher gears if your oil is low in the trans.

[ShiRen]

Brings a tear to my eye watching all the young driveway mechanics grow up! Goes from asking for help to replacing the whole 5th gear, good job!

[Jinnai]

Hey fellas. After a while of being fine, it started having problems again. I thought mostly problems with first - it's sometimes popping out of gear, which is pretty disconcerting, but then it started getting stuck in reverse. I freed it from reverse by dropping the clutch, but ever since then, fifth hasn't worked. I don't know what broke there, but I'm guessing they're related, since they happened at the same time. I looked in the engine bay - actually while replacing a coolant hose - and noticed that the last person who worked on it decided not to bolt the top rear engine brace in place. Either they figured it was better off without it, or the bolts were hard to reach it and they said "eh fuck it, too much work".

Anyways, fixing that stopped the engine from flopping around forward and back, but 1st still pops itself out sometimes, and 5th is still completely dead, like one big neutral. It worked on the way to school that day, so it didn't wear out it's teeth again like last time. Think it is connected to reverse, and any ideas how to fix it?

[Oldblueaccord]

Hey fellas. After a while of being fine, it started having problems again. I thought mostly problems with first - it's sometimes popping out of gear, which is pretty disconcerting, but then it started getting stuck in reverse. I freed it from reverse by dropping the clutch, but ever since then, fifth hasn't worked. I don't know what broke there, but I'm guessing they're related, since they happened at the same time. I looked in the engine bay - actually while replacing a coolant hose - and noticed that the last person who worked on it decided not to bolt the top rear engine brace in place. Either they figured it was better off without it, or the bolts were hard to reach it and they said "eh fuck it, too much work".

Anyways, fixing that stopped the engine from flopping around forward and back, but 1st still pops itself out sometimes, and 5th is still completely dead, like one big neutral. It worked on the way to school that day, so it didn't wear out it's teeth again like last time. Think it is connected to reverse, and any ideas how to fix it?

All that flopping around I would give the shift linkage a good look over. That second "torque" rod, that round rod that mounts to the trans bell housing with a bushing, is very very important if its not hooked up ...as in you wont be able to get it in gear.