Ignition coil questions

[Dr_Snooz]

If it was getting both fuel and spark, then your problem is timing. Is the timing belt broken? You'd want to verify that it was getting adequate fuel and spark, of course.

[lx 1986]

Dr_Snooz

The timing belt is new and timing is correct. So it looks like it's the igniter that's the problem right now. I've changed igniters before and have never seen any oil. Usually the grease is dry. I'm going to pull that WVE and test it again. Maybe for test #5, I didn't have my meter set right. But if I have to send it back to Rock it's still under warranty and I'd need to pull it anyway.

I was going to pull it today but it's raining I thought it was going to be sunny today like yesterday

[Oldblueaccord]

I think the numbers might not match the book but like the stock style coils there not going to made to spec. A lot of it is the components like the transistor are not available anymore.

I think you need to manually verify that you do or do not have spark at the plugs thats causing your no start problem. Its certainly possible the spark plugs are just fouled out from poor carb performance.

EDIT: second thought when testing a raw component like the igniter it needs to be out of the circuit..unhooked completely.. and your ground probe needs to be solid to the point of scraping/scratching to "make" the ground.

[lx 1986]

Oldblueaccord

My plugs are new. When I test the igniter it's always pulled out of the dizzy that's the only way to test it. I'm just not sure if I did the measurement correctly for D and ground. I guess either way I'd have to pull the igniter to test it and if it's bad I'll return to Rock for a replacement. Thanks for the help

[lx 1986]

Ok I pulled WVE . Put fresh battery in my meter. Here's the results.

RETESTED WVE AGAIN TODAY (HAD OIL ON IT)
TEST #5 for WAI igniter (book says Resistance 50,000) ohms I'm assuming they mean 50 thousand. THIS IS FOR D AND GROUND

Meter set at highest ohms setting 2000k gives me a reading of 000

Meter set at 200k or 200,000 thousand reading is 00.2

Meter set at 20k that is setting right below 200k gives me 0.16
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So at 200k my reading was 00.2.
I assume I set my meter correctly because the book says 50k. I did the reading with settings at 2000k and 20k to show what I got with those 2 settings to clarify what readings were above and below 200k.

So is this out of specs?

What Brand of silicone dielectric paste should I buy? The one I got at Autozone is white and I think is breaking down that's why I'm seeing oil on the igniter again when I removed it for the retest.

[Oldblueaccord]

Ok I pulled WVE . Put fresh battery in my meter. Here's the results.

RETESTED WVE AGAIN TODAY (HAD OIL ON IT)
TEST #5 for WAI igniter (book says Resistance 50,000) ohms I'm assuming they mean 50 thousand. THIS IS FOR D AND GROUND

Meter set at highest ohms setting 2000k gives me a reading of 000

Meter set at 200k or 200,000 thousand reading is 00.2

Meter set at 20k that is setting right below 200k gives me 0.16
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So at 200k my reading was 00.2.
I assume I set my meter correctly because the book says 50k. I did the reading with settings at 2000k and 20k to show what I got with those 2 settings to clarify what readings were above and below 200k.

So is this out of specs?

What Brand of silicone dielectric paste should I buy? The one I got at Autozone is white and I think is breaking down that's why I'm seeing oil on the igniter again when I removed it for the retest.

The paste is thermal grease so it helps transfer heat away from the ignitor I think is what you want.

The readings with your meter setting seem to be out of book spec. Thats why auto ranging meters are popular know because alot of time the scale of those old ones made it hard to read and the accuracy is not that great as you can see by your readings.

[lx 1986]

Oldblueaccord

So the conclusion is the igniter is bad, then even though I don't have auto tuning and am using old meter. I just need to know if it's bad.

[Oldblueaccord]

Sorry wish I could say for sure but I cant..I still would have someone help you manually crank the engine and check for spark at the plugs and go back from there.

Possible to get some else with a meter to check it for you like your mechanic. ..second opinion would not hurt.

[lx 1986]

Alright what I decided to do was to swap out the WVE igniter for the WAI igniter that came with the dizzy originally. I do know the WAI would start the car because it was working before I replaced it. It only had tac hop when I turned the AC on. Once replaced no tac hop. The oil I'm seeing is coming from the dielectric grease. I read it's mixed with some type of oil. I put the WAI back on and guess what? It started right up. So I'm sending the WVE back to Rock for replacement. I also decided to buy that multimeter ShiRen suggested and some dielectric grease on Amazon. I'll post back when I get the WVE igniter back and installed.
Thanks guys for the help and support.

[ShiRen]

Ignitors are freakin whack man... If I did not have enough projects and I didn't throw the old TEC in the bin I'd figure out how to put a GM hei ignitor in there. They do didly squat, basically like a signal conversion.

[lx 1986]

I installed my new igniter I used the new grease I bought. I decided to tackle the high gas level in the carb. It took a while for the level to go down but I got it down a little lower than I wanted but had to stop adjusting the fumes were getting me sick. I'll do more adjusting tomorrow or Monday. I'm going to hang on to the igniter I replaced at least I know it starts the car. It helped me get to my vaccine appt on Wed. I'm just glad I didn't have to walk the 3 miles to get there. I'll posts back again I'll probably need more help anyway. Thanks again guys

[Oldblueaccord]

Keep chipping away at it one thing at a time. Glad you got your vax Im getting mine next week.

[lx 1986]

Oldblueaccord

I'll keep trying? Glad to here your getting vax next week. My 2nd vax is on Apr 29th at CVS they schedule you automatically for the 2nd vax they show you dates and you pick a time. They ran a smooth operation in CA.

[lx 1986]

I have another question. The fuel sending unit is separate from my fuel pump and it seems to not register the correct fuel amount sometimes. Would the sending unit have anything to do with stopping fuel from going to my carb or does it not have any affect on the fuel other than showing how much is in the tank.

[Oldblueaccord]

I have another question. The fuel sending unit is separate from my fuel pump and it seems to not register the correct fuel amount sometimes. Would the sending unit have anything to do with stopping fuel from going to my carb or does it not have any affect on the fuel other than showing how much is in the tank.

No it just measures the fuel amount unless EFI and carb tanks are totally different.

[lx 1986]

Thanks Oldblueaccord I guess I'll worry about that later then

[Oldblueaccord]

EFI Flooding - Won't Start

post 14 Niles has some tests/specs and part numbers to go with it as far as the igniter readings.

[lx 1986]

Oldblueaccord

Not sure if the dizzy was the problem or igniter. I got to thinking only reason I swapped original igniter with WVE igniter was it had tac hop when I turned the ac on but it did start the car. I checked igniter unit and everything was good. So I pulled the WVE igniter and put the original igniter back on and car started. Since WVE igniter was still under warranty I sent it back for replacement to Rock. Got replacement. I went to get gas before I swapped the igniters. Swapped them and car wouldn't start again. I put original back on again & car started right up.

Found out replacement WVE igniter I got from Rock was the problem. The replacement was not the same part. I got a box marked WVE/NTK made in Japan but what I got as replacement was a part made in China. Different #s stamped on parts. Not the 1st time this has happened. I installed it not thinking they would send a different part. I was going to send the part back again for a 2nd replacement because it's still under warranty but they wouldn't do that but they will give me a refund minus return shipping. I'm wondering if the reasoning behind this is I didn't pay as much for my WVE as there charging for it now and if I repurchase it's going to cost me an extra 45.00 more. I can see why rock stopped having online chats probably there were to many complaints of wrong products being sent out in random boxes. It's called bait and switch. My goal right now is just to make it to my 2nd vax next week so I can get that out of the way. The car is running kinda rough but enough to get me there.

I'm finding out that world power dizzy is not the problem. It's the igniter they put on there. It causes tac hop. If the igniter is replaced with a different brand it goes away.

[ShiRen]

Gosh, just buy a Hitachi off ebay, TEC ignitors are a lost cause.
DISTRIBUTOR HONDA ACCORD 86 87 88 89 | eBay
88 89 1988 1989 HONDA ACCORD DISTRIBUTOR 2.0L MT | eBay
These probably actually work still too, just put a cap and rotor in it if it starts the car.

[Oldblueaccord]

Amazing my orginal TEC still making it. ..I must be lucky.

[Dr_Snooz]

And when he finds out the Hitachi won't fit on his head, what then?

[ShiRen]

Why wouldn't it? They're the same design on the mount. It fits on mine and I don't see any other heads being different. Heck you could use a fuel injected TEC on a carbed engine provided you have long enough bolts to get through the cam angle sensor.
Unless theres some California engine fuckery that I don't know about.

Amazing my orginal TEC still making it. ..I must be lucky.

I thought mine was going to be a survivor. Sike! I was going to let one of my friends drive it before tach bounce... funny I said I'd let him drive it the same day my clutch stopped reacting to pedal input, and the time it started growling... I don't mention his name around my car anymore.

[Dr_Snooz]

They mount differently. You have to replace the mount and to do that, you have to remove the valve cover and replace the cam cap. Easy for you, but I think OP wants his car to run without having to do head work, or having to run around junkyards looking for scarce parts.

[ShiRen]

Really? There was no difference on mine, I did not change the cam cap. It mounts normally, I have it basically in the middle of it's adjustment and there is tons of it. The ears are no wider or narrower. I'll have to look at the cap on the engine I pulled it off of, I didn't notice anything different. Here's a pic for proof... Ignore the backing out bolt, I just noticed that.

[Dr_Snooz]

The one has a big long stud on it.