Ignition coil questions

[lx 1986]

ShiRen

The 1st 1 you have up there is for a manual with federal emissions. I'm in CA where're the worst in the country for emission standards. 2nd one doesn't really state anything. Like Dr_Snooze says I really don't want anything to go wrong with this.

I still have my Cardone dizzy which replaced my original, which lasted for the better part of 30+ years. I wish I had hung on to it now. The only thing that was wrong with the Cardone is the can cracked in 1/2 and I couldn't find a replacement for it. I bought the WAI as the replacement because the newer Cardone's have changed their design and are not compatible anymore with my car. I bought from 3 different places had all 3 installed, all 3 couldn't be adjusted to idle right. When I was going to buy the spectra model I asked if it was compatible with my car because I didn't see an external igniter on it. It look like a Hitachi. No one could answer my question. I'm still waiting for Spectra to answer and that was 2yrs ago. When I bought my 1st rebuilt Cardone from Pepboys to replace the OEM I installed it in 10 mins and never had a problem with it until the can cracked.

[ShiRen]

I don't know that much about california emissions, but there is only one difference between the distributors and thats the ignitor. The person doing the smog check on your car shouldn't know the difference, the state honestly shouldn't know the difference. Its better that way. You should pass.

The Spectra: More Information for SPECTRA PREMIUM TD43K looks like a Hitachi with a TEC part number... Honestly that's great, albiet sketchy. Worst case scenario if you buy it its an actual TEC. Its twice the price of the ones on ebay though. All up to you.

I can't imagine what Cardone you got because 31841 is a compatible dizzy.

I just hate to see people get the run around on these TECs man. Apart from the ignitor there is no major difference between the Hitachi and the TEC. If the TEC is converted to a different ignitor, say a gm HEI then it should be fine.

[lx 1986]

The pic of the Cardone is an old pic. It's exactly like my 1st Cardone from Pepboys. The model that is now available is different. How it differs is the can position has changed. My OEM and the 1st Cardone from Pepboys and the WAI can, has the nozzles for the tubing facing up towards the hood. The new rebuilt Cardones the can's nozzles are facing towards the front passenger fender so you have to buy new tubing to reach it.

Whether or not this is what causes the idle problem I can't say. All I know is the 3 new rebuilt Cardones had the same problem. All cans are facing towards fender all bought at different places. Not the right housing. Talked to auto parts store, was told as long as connectors are the same it should work. Well it didn't. I won't trust them anymore. In theory it should work but didn't. I asked if they thought it was the position of the can. They didn't know. If there is something wrong internally other than the can I don't know. Maybe they installed wrong pickup coil. There are many that look a like. I know the housing is not right the can is facing the wrong way.

Bought a WAI it was installed, idle was perfect except for tac hop when ac is turned on. Bought WVE igniter, no more tac hop.

I just don't want to go through the hassle of having it not work and having to return it or getting something I get stuck with. I went through a lot of hassle with those 3 for something that takes 10 min to install and should work. I spent 2 1/2 mos trying to straightening things out with 3 different companies.

Don't think I don't appreciate your input. I do. Unfortunately CA is very strict everything has to be CA emissions or it's an automatic fail.

[lx 1986]

Haven't posted in awhile but I have been trying to fix things. I decided to put my old Cardone dizzy back in with the NEC igniter it came with. Now the car starts all the time. Only thing that was wrong with the Cardone was the can was cracked and inner seal was leaking, those issues were fixed. When I stepped on the brake to stop the car it would try to stall. I had to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from dying. A mechanic told me it was the pickup coil. I thought it was the can because of the crack. He said to replace the dizzy. So I replaced it with a new WAI one. Problem went away, then came back again recently, with that new dizzy. Also it would start sporadically. Turned out starting problem was igniter but it still had the braking problem.

Suggestions from this site were: brake booster, vacuum leaks, carb, fuel and ground issues. I checked and repaired most everything I found that wasn't working or had to be replaced.

Which brings me to another question. I'm hoping someone can help me with. I had another post about putting some sealer for a leak in my heater core. I haven't done it yet. I'm having the same problem again with the brakes. Would the leak in my heater core be considered a vacuum leak? Or could this cause my brakes to do this?

[Oldblueaccord]

No heater core is just coolant.

Glad your getting it worked out.

[lx 1986]

Thanks Oldblueaccord for the response. I guess I can eliminate that as braking problem.

One of the things I did was shot some carb cleaner in those gold vent tubes at the top of the carb and in the tube where the gas line is connected to the carb because I read a post here where someone had a similar problem adjusting the level of gas in the site glass, thinking he had a seat and needle problem and a stuck float. He lucked out and it fixed his problem. I was trying to avoid having to open the top hat as last resort. It did help I can now adjust the float level but I did end up opening the top hat and shot carb cleaner in there and cleaned everything out. I replaced the choke opener because when I went to restart the car after it was warm the rpms went way up like it was warming up again. Still have to adjust idle and drive it to see if the brake problem is better or worse. The primary venturi is still shooting out gas when the car is at idle not really clear as to whether or not that's supposed to be happening. I still have to replace gas hose to carb it's old and has cracked at the opening, maybe that's why gas goes down below site glass overnight. Not sure about that either or there's another problem or that's my vacuum leak.

[ShiRen]

If the primary is dribbling gas then the float is too high, the orings in the seat screw are probably done. Also check the venturiis for wiggle and if they move tighten their screw on the passenger side of the carb.
Your braking issue definitely sounds like vacuum/carb or maybe the advance mechanism is the distributor.

[lx 1986]

I checked venturis both are tight. I'll try to lower the float level 1st.

I don't know what you mean by advance mechanism is the dizzy? Are you talking about the can?

I read some post here that said venturis leaking while car is idling could also be due to the being off the idle circuit is that true?

So just to clarify when the car is idling there should be no gas coming out of venturis at all except when I step on the gas I should only see a spray of gas?

[ShiRen]

You're going to get nowhere with lowering the float, the o rings are shot. The only fix for it is to buy a couple sets of fuel resistant o rings from the parts store and then carefully shaving them down until they fit. They are a very odd size. If I knew what size they are its possible I could point you towards a mcmaster carr part that will fit better or be cheaper... The orings I fixed mine with were an assorted Dorman set and only had 1 size each for like $7...
They should be about 5/16-3/8" OD

[lx 1986]

How difficult is it to fix the orings. Sounds like I would have to remove top hat completely right? Or is there another way it can be done without removing the top hat completely. This will solve the problem with the leaking venturi? Or is this just going to help me adjust the float.

I was thinking if the top hat is removed can I replace it with another top hat from another carb with a known working seat, needle and float? Are they interchangeable?

I just wanted to know if it's possible in case I can't find the orings.

[ShiRen]

Its not difficult, finding the parts is a little tricky. I just made a writeup here: https://www.3geez.com/forum/carburet...ml#post1223619 I think I found the full rebuild kit, looks like it has the right size orings, if not you can just shave down some normal fuel resistant orings.
You have to take the top off (easy, just don't break the gasket if you don't have a new one, and be careful not to lose any accelerator pump parts off the linkage in the back right) punch the pin out of the float, remove the needle and float, then you can turn the screw clockwise to screw it out of the bottom. It won't hold gas otherwise. You can change the top, but it will likely have the same problem, or will soon.

One thing you might be able to try just to verify the float bowl is overflowing and causing fuel to spray out the venturi, if you can get it to idle, pinch the fuel line off and see if it stops leaking out of the venturi, before the car begins to die. Itll take a good minute for it to use all the fuel in the bowl, I reckon about half way it will stop coming out the venturi... if it doesn't then the carb might need some more work, hopefully an ultrasonic and a rebuild kit is enough. Iirc an overflowing bowl will cause fuel to push out the accel pump orifice, the tiny hole above the primary venturi, so I won't say I'm 100% sure the bowl is overflowing.

[lx 1986]

Alright I'll try pinching the fuel hose but 1st I'll have to replace it. It still has old hose with the red covering on it.

If I replace the top hat with a known working one why do you say I'd have a problem later. I'm just curious as to why if the problem is with the seat, needle or float.

[ShiRen]

I guess if you replaced the top hat with one with the needle and seat orings replaced yeah I guess it would work, but you'll probably have an easier time finding the orings. I am just saying, they will deteriorate eventually on all cars, I've had them go out on 2 carbs.

[lx 1986]

Ok got it. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it guy.

[lx 1986]

I have another question. What exactly does the secondary barrel do on the carb. Reason I ask is I don't see any gas coming out of the venturi and I'm not sure if the gold plate at the bottom is suppose to move or not. It doesn't appear it does anything. Or is it doing something and I just don't see it.

[ShiRen]

It's there for more powaaaa. I don't know if you will get it to open without putting the engine under load since the secondaries are vacuum actuated on a stock car.

They might open if you just hold it wide open for a second lol, idk how comfortable you are redlining it while staring down the carb. It ought to work unless you have a vacuum leak in that circuit. The manual probably shows you how to test it.