88 Accord DX Questions

[Vincent]

Hey everyone I've acquired an 88 DX coupe last year and it needs some work. I happened to receive the new A/C condenser I ordered and it looks to be too short to reach the mounts on either side nor does it seat down in the holes for the "posts". Mind you it was in a minor front end collision so it is a little wonky but by the looks of it, it shouldn't have affected these mounts. This is the condenser I ordered and it says "easy fitment" but I wasn't sure if its the "wrong" one and I couldn't find anything with basic searching that says otherwise.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&jsn=10&jsn=10

Also I'm not sure if its already been changed over to R134A or not so I don't know how to be sure of that because I will be refilling it with 134. Anyway to know for sure? I'm already replacing the condenser, compressor, lines, and drier. As the condenser was missing when I purchased the car. If it hasn't been changed over will it matter if I have it filled with 134?

If I can think of anything else I might need I'll edit/post below. I'd greatly appreciate any help I could get.

[Dr_Snooz]

Well if the line connectors on the condenser will work, the mounting can be whatever you fab together to make it work. Or you can always send it back and get the correct one.

The only way to be sure that it's been converted is to convert it. Buy some flush for $20, some Ester oil for $10 and spend the 2 hours it takes to convert it. Even if it's been converted already, do it anyway. It would be a shame to put all those new parts in and recirculate all the dirt that's already in there. Do the job right and clean it up.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

[ShiRen]

You need to figure out what compressor you have. If you have a Keihin DO NOT put r134a in it, it won't take it, at the very least it will leak. I have one and I put es12 in it... its not exactly easy to find in the can I bought it in. I believe envirosafe now labels it as an r134a replacement, but I have seen a few resellers label it as both. I don't know what oil I used, but ester oil is your safest bet, next being the r134a incompatible mineral oil.

If you have a hitachi compressor then erase all of what I just said from your head, put r134a in, and enjoy your fancy compressor

Either way, get the system vacuumed and change the accumulator... bit bigger job, but while you have it drained, change the evaporator. Its important that you at least clean your stock one because it acts as a giant mouse proof cabin air filter if you catch my drift.

[Vincent]

The compressor I ordered is a Denso compressor. If that tells you anything. If not I can post a link to the compressor. Since you said before I can fab it up or send it back it wonÂ’t make a difference?

[ShiRen]

Well, you're in luck, that's the good one, I mistook the name. It's ready to go fo r134a.
What all are you replacing? The denso has it's own lines and bracket, are you replacing a denso or do you have all the parts you need?

[Vincent]

I was actually coming here to find out if I had to buy a new bracket or not because I just saw on another post mentioning a bracket which I didn’t order because I didn’t know. I can post a list of everything I ordered/planned to replace later today.

[ShiRen]

If you had a keihin or no compressor before then yes, you will need a bracket

[Vincent]

Now how can I tell what compressor is on there now? I couldn’t find any identification on top of it. Other than a plate that says “do not loosen”

[ShiRen]

Pretty sure you are describing a Keihin. I'm not sure if the lines are different... it looks like Honda only had 1 part number.
I did find a mount though

[Dr_Snooz]

You'll need a bracket and lines.

[Vincent]

Here’s the list of parts I’ve already bought. Let me know if there’s things I need to add lol

[Vincent]

Also I wanted to add I forgot till now. My transmission is an auto and it grinds out of reverse, doesn't matter which way you go either park or neutral. It's like its taking too long to shift out of reverse.

[Vincent]

Now I’m gotten to the “rebuilding” stage and I put the motor back where it was after I lined up TDC on the camshaft but I cannot find the -T- mark on the crank. I have a dot on my crank pulley but it’s pointed to about 5 o’clock.

[ShiRen]

There isn't squat for timing marks. mark is on the flywheel, and the woodruff key on the crank will be straight up.

[Vincent]

Appreciate the response! I got it figured out shortly after I posted that. Got it to run but upon first startup I didn’t have vacuum advance hooked into the dizzy. After I hooked that back up the car does not want to start and when it does, it backfires and misses for a few seconds then smooths out but when I hit the gas it got to about 3k rpm then just stalled. I’m assuming it’s a timing issue but I’m unfamiliar with timing.

[ShiRen]

Adjust the dizzy to about the middle and it should run. Using a timing light is simple as hooking it up and pointing it at the flywheel marks until it lines up, or totally guessing how many degrees its out for more power

[Vincent]

Dizzy is set to the middle which is what confused me but I’m going to try and adjust it both ways and see what works.

[Dr_Snooz]

Make sure your belt isn't off by a tooth.