Oh no, my carburetor rebuild.

[asianwills]

Ohh, maybe I’m mixing information. I’m talking about the base gasket that seals the intake.

[ShiRen]

Simply make the stud holes in your gasket paper, slide it on the intake, then press the shape of the intake into the paper

[asianwills]

Quick question: Does anybody know the torque specs for the bolts mounting to the carburetor to the intake manifold? There was a few forums were people also seemed confused on it, I did see someone mention 15 ft lbs though. Just wondering if there was anymore information to confirm that, I feel like it would be a bit more of an important spec since it sits on that gasket.

[ShiRen]

I usually have to use a 12mm box end wrench, idk how caveman you have to get on it to actually cause a problem. I wouldn't worry about it, but it probably says in the manual if you want to dig. https://www.dropbox.com/s/e3qwtw8lvp...anual.pdf?dl=0

[Dr_Snooz]

If I remember from way back when I did my '76, 15 ft-lbs is about right. But it doesn't matter because you'll never get a torque wrench on it. Just tighten till it feels right. Tight enough that it won't rattle loose, but not so tight you crush the gasket.

[asianwills]

Thanks Guys! I was finally able to get my carb on, and have it somewhat tuned! lol

Ok, so when putting it back together I didn’t have enough lines to replace all the vacuum lines. But I was able to replace all the ones directly connected to the carb. When tubing the carb I first tuned the throttle cable, then throttle stop screw, mixture screw, and finally the float. It just made the most sense to me. I haven’t tuned anything else yet just because I didn’t have to touch those when rebuilding, but I should probably do the rest soon. So if you guys got any tips for those then that would help.

Overall the car runs a lot better, it idles at around 800-1000. However, when pulling instead of pushing on my throttle pedal the rpm’s drop and it stalls out. I’m not sure if it is supposed to do that, and if maybe a little bit of slack or something in the line is the only thing keeping me from stalling.

Another thing is when putting the throttle stop screw back on I totally forgot how many turns it goes in. So it could be completely off spec. I tried tuning it but it is almost impossible to get to it let along turn the spring loaded screw with all those metal lines right next to it. How the heck do you guys get to that, I tried using some small needles nose but it would hit the firewall.

I also have the same problem with the engine stalling when it is cold in the morning, but unlike before when the engine warms up it doesn’t fix that. It will still stall when the engine is warm if it is cold outside, but if it is later in the afternoon and it’s warmer then it has no problems. The auto choke will work in the morning and when it’s cold, it’ll rev at around 2000. But like I said even after that it will stall when it’s cold outside. Any ideas, could it be any of the things I mentioned above? Also, should I continue this conversation in this thread?

[ShiRen]

Does it stall when you open the throttle or when you let off and let it idle back down? And by throttle stop screw dont you mean the black knob on the side of the carb? Its really easy to turn, but they came with a few different styles, maybe you need one thats long and flexable. Does it stall if you increase the idle? As for pulling on the throttle it sounds like the throttle stop is too far out and the throttle cable is too tight. There can't be any tension on the cable, every dang time I take the carb off I always have to loosen the cable because its so dang finicky. There should be no change in engine speed when you pull the pedal or let the throttle snap back closed

[asianwills]

It’ll only stall when I let off the throttle. For example, if I catch the rpm’s falling in time then I can just touch the throttle and it will save it from stalling out.
Ya that’s the screw I’m talking about. I’ve kinda just realized it’s on the same side as the throttle wheel and cable, shouldn’t it be touching or close to that “wheel”? I couldn’t figure out what it was supposed to do when putting the carb back together, cause it just screws into a pointless hole. But if the other end of the screw is meant to come out and reach that “wheel” then that would make more sense.

Thanks for the advice, I had a feeling it would be some sort of combination with the throttle cable and that screw.

[ShiRen]

Oh yeah, it sounds like when the spring snaps back to an idle its trying to go too low to touch the idle screw. Sounds like you have it in the totally wrong place.