A little? This is great. I really appreciate this.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...-Clarification
A little? This is great. I really appreciate this.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...-Clarification
my TW sensor OHMs when fully warmed then cooled enough to give me a hot start issue is .520 kilo ohms or 520 ohms. Higher than the limit. Is that enough to give me this hot start? I can always jump it off the clutch with no problems and it idles a bit high but i have the timing slightly advanced. 1000 is the normal idle for me. Should I retard it back? Does retarded timing help with a hot start you think? Or would even more advanced timing be able to overcome a flooding hot start? Could I wire in a resistor that could simulate the hot start ? Using a switch?
I also saw something about the wrong part being sold to me if went through autozone but i went through amazon for my TW sensor. Since the resistance is 120 higher than normal when hot...maybe this is my issue. What do you think? 520 enough to drown out my engine on hot start?
Last edited by fortekosakku; 03-24-2023 at 04:51 PM.
Looking at page 11-118 of the 1988 book that means your sensor thinks its 0 degrees outside. So yes that would be a problem to rich.
The only thing retarding the timing might help is less drag on the starter so more voltage means more spark. It would be easy enough to try just move the timing and try it. That might be why you can roll start it with out the starter.
Also if you hold the throttle straight to the floor when your cranking it wont spark but you might be able to clear out some fuel and then start it without the gas pedal.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Explain why there is no spark during full throttle cranking. Is that yet another BS lockout sensor ????
it goes back to the days when your carburetor was flooded you were instructed to press accelerator to the floor , hold, and crank to clear it.
So when fuel injection came around it is just a carry over.
I use it on my OBD2 cars when I change the oil to prime the oil pump a little before I start it up.
You dont need your foot on the gas at all on a fuel injection car to start it.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
My 87 honda isnt even OBD 1 isnt it? Even PGMFI. Im asking if there is a electrical switch on my pedal or something that cuts the spark. How is flooring the pedal cutting the spark? Is it using my TPS signal to cut my spark? I heard about this contact issue with the ignition switch. I replaced the white switch but something about the contacts always giving problems? So lets talk about a permanent hot wire fix. IM sick of chasing this crap. Lets talk about work arounds. Ill strip this car down to bare metal like I did the ae86 and just have a single driver seat and a seatbelt if I have too. No more replacing 3 relays in a circuit. Ive been told now to replace the main relay but now there some other fuel cut relay on the back of a fuse box under the dash. How about NO! How about you all , with your infinite wisdom and experience come up with a race car work around wiring diagram that can get our cars to work and start EVERYTIME regardless of how much it might lower the stock resale value or how bad it looks. Do this, chase that. Where are my boys at that came up with solid permant workarounds? Toggle switches for god sakes. Starting cold and hot and these dumb wiring issues hold this car back. My uncle buys JDM hondas like crazy and he wont touch 3geez. NOW I KNOW WHY.
Dealing with this now. Did you ever find out? I tested my volts on the ignition while cranking to be below 10. Just like the oldhonda guy said. There is a 40amp fuse under the hood that the ignition uses. testing that for me while running was 11.7. Volts at the ignition switch with just the key on is 12v also. I have a new TW sensor coming because mine did show 520 ohms , outside the 400 limit but I doubt its going to fix my hot start because like you say, I dont even feel like its trying to spark and my ignition voltages are fluctuating. I will run a brand new positive battery wire through the clutch wire entry point on the firewall, then wire in a toggle switch to my ignition wire so i can force 12 v from the battery to the ignition wire. If my battery voltage still drops too low with a direct connection to the coils , I know my battery might not be able to handle the starter load and the ignition coil load anymore. It has to be something like this because my car can jump off the clutch no problems.
It's obd0, aka dumb as a door nail.
Why are you giving it full throttle while cranking then? That doesn't sound like a rabbit hole you need to go down. There aren't work arounds because that would involve removing inputs for the ecu. Yes, you need a tps sensor, yes you need a tw sensor, etc, etc. You want an easy fix, buy a manifold off eBay and put a Weber carb on it.
I legitimately don't know what you are trying to accomplish anymore. You said the car doesn't restart after running shortly before, ok. Have you ever even considered the injectors could be dumping fuel into the engine until they leak out all the pressure in the lines? You smell gas, it's going somewhere.
Don't bitch us out because we haven't completely botched an efi system to make it run shittily. And idk what your uncle thinks because this efi system is no different than what you would find in any other 80s honda
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
My efi system runs fine. And i have a automotive technology diploma so I know what im doing. These forums exist to give me some inside information from people WHO ARE SUPPOSED TO KNOW this car inside and out. Its not the injectors. They are new. The car runs off the clutch and the car runs cold start easily. Even flooded I can pop the clutch and get her to run. Nope. Its about my ignition coil not getting enough juice to fire when its hot and my 3 yr old optima battery in the texas heat, even at full charge after a deep cycle drops my volts below 10 during cranking. I DONT GIVE IT FULL THROTTLE while cranking someone else said to do that and it never worked for me. ITs just a hot start issue that is intermittent . YOU KNOW? The same problem so many others have had with this car? The one that even NOW Dr. Snooz has yet to confirm hes solved? I have every right to put pressure on you so called experts of 3geez because I DONT THINK YOU ARE EXPERTS at all. Dont reply to me punk. Unless you are going to help and dont even bother helping if you are just going to recycle everything everyone else has already said and tried. You dont knwo what im trying to accomplish do you? Let me help you. SIMP. I want the car to start up and run , cold and HOT , EVERYTIME. And if I have to run brand new race car circuits through toggle switches to guarantee spark and fuel. I WILL. Ive already got all the help im going to get from all of you. To be honest. Youtube videos have been more helpful than this site over the last 3 years. now F OFF
14.67 while running at the battery. I WAS TESTING AT THE COIL FUSE in the fuse box. Im done with the site and the "experts" here. Thanks though.
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