1987 Honda Accord DX leaking coolant through back of baseplate

[TrinitySRosewood]

Hi!

Recently did a weber 32/36 on my 87 DX. Everything was fine and smooth, not leaks (except for my normal coolant leaks) until I started having vaccuum issues and noticed that my entire carb setup had come loose, I took the top half of the carb off (carb+adapter plate) and retightened everything but the bottom baseplate. Put it all back together and put some gasket sealer on the old gasket and tightened it all. Worked fine for a week until I started to notice I was leaking coolant progressively worse and worse until it was literally massive puddles of coolant. Found out that im leaking coolant from a hose (I think the cap came off) and from the back of the carb. Im assuming that my gaskets just went bad? My car is undrivable now as it overheats and it diesels. I plugged the hole on the intake manifold with the gasket sealer when I put everything together. Am I right? Or is something worse going on here? My car still starts and runs fine.

See photo attached

[TrinitySRosewood]

Well, figured it out on my own. Ended up capping off the line circled below and used a screw and JB Weld to seal the coolant port on the manifold fixed the issue. I also used orange locktite on all the bolts and the studs so they can't rattle loose anymore. To be double sure that it stays sealed, I put some extra gasket sealer around the coolant port that I covered up. I've driven it for about a week and have put maybe 30-40 miles on it and its held up amazing, not a drop. It seems to be I have a vacuum leak now which I think is the grey and the 2 blue nozzles. Will bring another update when I figure it out

[ShiRen]

The vacuum leak is not the blue ports, but the broken ports on the right... Those need to be plugged

[TrinitySRosewood]

The grey one? how can I go about plugging that small hole do you think?

Edit:
Got all the vacuum leaks fixed! had a friend help me adjust the carb and now im idling comfortably at 900-1000 rpm. We got it to idle at 750rpm and it sounded great but it made the car really rattly so we raised it. The car also no longer diesels now with all that fixed!

[McSchwagginz]

Hiya!

Also recently got my Weber swap to work, wondering where the coolant lines go now that they dont go into the carb anymore. Could u tell or show me how u did it so I could do the same? Also kinda curious where you pulled the vacuum for your carb from.
I made my own little contraption wich works but has backfire into the intake wich im now looking into hahaha.

[ShiRen]

Doesn't the Weber have a vacuum port for the power valve or something like that? You need to connect that to the distributor and tee into one of the vacuum ports on the manifold. Just like the stock carb with vacuum delete. Check that thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...elete-pictures make sure you put a vacuum check valve in the distributor, you don't want to backfire into that

[McSchwagginz]

Thats what i did, its pulling vacuum from the distributor at the moment. Though a vacuum leak is likely causing the backfire wich i think i fixed now, had 2 open ports wich i overlooked when starting it. Hadn't thought of the backfire into the distributor though. Gonna get a vac check valve for it.

[ShiRen]

It can't pull vac from the distributor, both the power valve and dizzy need to be teed back to the manifold.

There should have been tons of check valves in the lines you took off