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Thread: Serious carb issues, 88 LX 4dr, Help!!!

  1. #1

    Question Serious carb issues, 88 LX 4dr, Help!!!

    I'm having a series of issues that seem to have been tracked down to carburation. I'm not that savvy on Honda's yet, and still re-learning 2 years of High School auto-mech that is quickly coming back. Please bare with me if I seem to be long winded.

    I bought a used 1988 Honda Accord 4dr last month. 133k miles, 5spd, new Michelin tires and a very clean interior. It's only issues are no AC because of a missing belt and the clutch on the compressor dying, and a slight running issue that I have narrowed down to the carb. To narrow it down to this, I have changed cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and checked all vacuum lines for leaks with carb cleaner and patience. I've also painstakingly noted what the symptoms are, and found out when/what/where/how everything happens.

    To start off my description, let's start my day. When cold and after sitting overnight, the car starts perfectly. Pump the throttle once before starting, and she's up and humming with the high-idle choke engaged and working. Wait 2-4 minutes, and I begin to drive to work. Running fairly cold, it's like a new car. Runs perfectly, no complaints. After about 10 minutes, the motor begins to warm and problems begin to show. During light acceleration, the motor seems to stumble, and hesitate sometimes, as if it is starved for fuel or perhaps not igniting a cylinder. This happens from anywhere near idle to 3000RPM, from 1st to 5th gear. Sometimes, during shifting, the motor will seemingly hang on to the throttle a little and increase RPM after engaging the clutch. It usually is just a short blip, but it doesn't go back down as fast as when the engine is behaving properly.

    The stuttering goes away under harder acceleration and higher RPM. At 2500RPM, in 5th gear steady at 65mph, you can feel the stuttering. It can often be pretty pronounced. At 3100+ RPM, steady at 80mph, there is no stuttering. It seems that if either the vacuum secondary on the carb is open, or there is heavy throttling and accelleration, the stutter is non-existant. It runs like a scalded dog, for what it is, when the throttle is open and under that high accel condition. The throttle doesn't hang when shifting either, especially if RPMs are about 4000 when shifting. The car has also idled high from time to time at a red light or two, symptom goes away usually by tugging on the gas pedal.

    With those symptoms in mind, I have a couple of theories:

    1.) It runs too good cold and too good at high RPM/throttle to make me think this is an ignition or vacuum problem, but I replaced or diagnosed those first anyway.

    2.) The car runs GREAT cold, I almost want to wire the choke shut.

    3.) The car runs GREAT under hefty throttle, I almost want to wire the secondary open.

    4.) I know nothing about adjusting mixture on these carbs, or their design. Float sticking? Mixture way wrong? Ugh.

    5.) The throttle is sticking, somehow. It may be a throttle return spring?

    Ideas, suggestions, and hints? I am prepared to rebuild the carb myself if it's not too daunting, or perhaps buy another to rebuild and swap on. Could this be a fuel pump? Under high throttle, without symptoms, I wouldn't think so. Fuel filters are all new, and I'm just confused as it gets. The CV axles are going to need replacing eventually, as this has gone on for a while and slack/takeup you feel has to be wearing on them and the tranny.

    I am in the Austin, Texas area, and would love to take this car to the right person for a tune up and tutorial. I don't want to be ignorant of the fix, so anyone not minding a little shadowing would be helpful. I'm broke, and cheap, so keep that in mind.

    Thanks again, enjoying the list and my new car! The plan for the future for this thing, a B18C or better swap, fogg'd to 300+ hp. Not a single body mod from the outside detectable either, a true sleeper. Two years, at least, but I have time.
    Goat Jesus



  2. #2
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    how is the coolant ? gas milage ? does it do that even when idling and reving high ( not cruising ) ?

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  3. #3
    Coolant level is fine, gas milage is great. Only does the stutter at the steady lower RPMs and at idle, not under rapid accell or higher RPM's

    Thanks! I noticed I should have put this under carb tech, sorry about that.
    Goat Jesus

  4. #4
    1988starter
    Guest
    Maybe I missed it but have you checked the timing.

  5. #5
    Not yet, no timing light. Having it run so well at those other RPM ranges, etc, makes me wonder also if the vac advance might be a part of the symptoms, etc. I'll find a cheap light soon.

    Other ideas?
    Goat Jesus

  6. #6
    DX User Downlow89LX's Avatar
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    89 accord lx (under construction)
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    I think I told smeone about this earlier but I had a massive vaccuum leak in my #1 barrel that was causing this problem for me. I just bought a new carb and it ran fine. It cost me $260 to replace it but well worth it.
    Its like washing your hands before you wipe your ass, its pointless...

  7. #7
    Wouldn't that kinda leak make the car idle high all the time?
    Goat Jesus

  8. #8
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    86 Accord LX, carb, AT
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    Edmonton, Alberta
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    From ur post, everything is pointing to fuel delivery on primary barrel.. but primary jet passages are shared by idle passages too. Is not clear from ur post how is ur idle ?
    "The car has also idled high from time to time at a red light or two, symptom goes away usually by tugging on the gas pedal. "
    ..throttle cable might be too tight, but how is ur idle otherwise. Vacuum leak = crappie idle !
    .. Could be slightly loose venturi, u may check that by sticking ur finger through the opened choke flap.
    .. Dirt in the carb bowl and primary fuel passages. Is ur gas filler port rusty ?

  9. #9


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    I have an 88LX Carb for sale if you want it. Cheap.

  10. #10

    A20A1's Avatar
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    yeah it does sound like too much throttle... Does the Manual trans car come with a vacuum idle on the left side of the carb? I don't remember. If the seller wanted to hide the carb problems they tend to raise the idle.

    Recently I worked on another members carb to find he had a missing primary booster venturi retaining screw. He also had slight idle problems and poor performance.

    my last assumption would be a leaky top hat gasket since you've ruled out the rest of the vacuum lines.
    - llia


  11. #11
    The car's idle is sketchy at best. It sputters at idle when it's at any speed, but usually idles at the lower speed of 900rpm or so since I cleaned the carb with spray cleaner. It idled all the way up to 1200-1300 when it was sticking more often. It still runs rough though, that only evens out when it's cold or being throttled harder than normal driving. The seller was a friend, and he knows little of cars. I knew of this problem before hand, but for what I paid for the car I am happy.

    Fuel filler neck is clean, it's a Texas/Arizona car. There is some surface rust on the back fender, but that's nothing to worry about for me.

    I'll be back under the hood Wednesday probably, so I'm rying to get some ideas before then of what I can try to do before I yank the carb right off.

    How much for that carb, GhettoAccord??
    Goat Jesus

  12. #12

    A20A1's Avatar
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    ascender,
    Is it Goat Jesus or got Jesus?
    - llia


  13. #13


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    Make an offer.

  14. #14
    Goats. I have a thing for goats. ;-)

    Ben - Hell, what kinda shape is it in? I'll probably rebuild it anyway.
    Goat Jesus

  15. #15


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    It ran perfect, I wouldnt rebuild it unless you just want to save work down the road. I would put it in mine but I am too lazy

  16. #16
    Now I am super tempted. At the least, I could get it on the car, see how it runs, and if it's worse than mine I can always swap 'em back.

    I'm broke this month, so it's gonna take me a couple weeks. What's the bare f'n minimum you can take for it?
    Goat Jesus

  17. #17


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    I really doubt it's going to be worse. I know you're going on my word and all, but this thing was just fine when it was taken out. The junkyard wants $150 for the exact same thing. Personally that's a ripoff. Bare min... I don't know man, I really don't!

  18. #18
    $75 shipped?
    Goat Jesus

  19. #19

    A20A1's Avatar
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    go for it $75 is good for a used stock carb.
    - llia


  20. #20


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    Alright. I'll send priority. I'll pm you with my address. Money order if thats alright. I do have feedback in Buyer/Seller ratings in the Market Place if you are curious. PM me with your address so I can get it all packaged, so when your money order arrives it gets shipped the same day.

  21. #21
    OK, so considering the options, anyone else here think there is tuning room left, or that replacing this carb is the easiest way to a smoother running engine? Again, she runs so well with the choke on and cold from overnight that I shy away from the carb being that bad off, but it could be a combination of issues too.

    Thanks again!
    Goat Jesus

  22. #22


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    If you want to think about it, it's fine. I'll still be here.

  23. #23
    Not as much think, as try to fix the car as is. I'll give it one more shot this weekend, but I'll consider that carb mine when I send the cash. ;-)

    Thanks man, much appreciated.
    Goat Jesus

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