I can't get the nut off of the plate that covers my lug nuts. The nut is almost all the way striped and i can't get it budge. It has a star shaped pattern on the head. I tried spraying it w/ pb blaster and letting it sit, but nothing works. I badly need an alternative to just breaking the cover off because then my lug nuts will show and not match the others,also i don't know where to get one replacement.
Some one please help!!!!!!!!
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
I think I know what you need, but I can't remember the name of the tool. I think it's called a "come along". It's a tool for removing striped screws. You hold it up the the screw and you hit it with a heavy mallet. The blow makes it bite into the screw and turn at the same time. I have to use one on my brake rotors. Does anyone else know what I'm talking about?
plus dude you could just go to a junkyard and pick yourself up a new cap for like a dollar
Fast and cheap won't be reliable.
Cheap and reliable won't be fast.
And fast and reliable won't be cheap.
"It takes the dough to go."
I think the tool your talking about is called an easy-out. They're a pain in the butt to use though.
Just try a drill( drill through the screw). If you do it carefully you can get it off that way.
Last edited by guaynabo89; 05-25-2002 at 11:31 AM.
He's got aftermarket rims, doubt he will find a cap in a yard...Originally posted by 88accordlxi
plus dude you could just go to a junkyard and pick yourself up a new cap for like a dollar
The GSX was killed, I need something new...
i always said it !
i hate rims with a cap !
MIKE
3geez member since October 4th 2001
Where would i find one of thoose tools? Should a tire shop have one?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Try drilling it out. I had that problem when I replaced my rotors a long time ago. Start with a small drill bit (about 1/3 the size of the bolt head), get it lined up straight, and drill straight through. Don't get crazy with it, and if you don't get it the first time go a size up. If you go too big you'll strip the hole so be careful.
So what i do is take a drill and drive the bit straight through the stuck bolt. Will the action of the drill turning unscrew the bolt eventually, or am i just destroying the stuck bolt to get it out?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Drilling the head off will destroy the screw. This is not your only option at this point. Get a titanium drill bit that is smaller than the threaded part of the screw. Drill a hole into the screw as deeply as you dare. You will have to go at least a half an inch. Then go and buy a QUALITY bolt extraction tool. It should cost no less than 3 bucks. The cheapo ones create more headaches than anything else. Believe me, I've learned this the VERY hard way. A bolt extactor looks like a tapered drill bit/bolt that is threaded backwards. Thread the bolt extractor into the hole that you drilled counterclockwise by hand. Then use either a correct bolt extractor handle or a pair of vise grips and continue to turn this bolt extractor using pressure on the bolt extractor and it should free the bolt.
Remember, taking the cheap route on this project could give you an even bigger problem because if you snap the bolt extractor off, you might have to go to a shop and have someone weld a bolt to the whole mess to get it out. This causes discoloration of the rim cap because of the extreme heat involved in the welding process. Even with a mig welder.
"The bolt is almost all the way stripped." is what Chrome_thangs said in his first post.
Why would he try to save the bolt. Its not going back on to hold the cap again so might as well ditch it.
If the bolt is not overtightened you should be able to use an easy out like accordlx and Jims 86LXI HB suggested.You still have to drill into the bolt to use it.
If you over tightened the bolt last time you put it on the easy-out might be a pain to try to use.
I'm not trying to "save" the bolt. i just want it out so i can take my rim off and do brake work!
Thanks accordlx, i thnk I'm going to go your route! Where would i purchase this "bolt extractor" tool?
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
guaynabo89,
The method I descibed will not save the bolt, it is just a way to remove the bolt in one piece. This is the method taught to me by several competent mechanics. Many times when you drill the head off of a screw or bolt, the remaining threaded part is too short to grap with vise grips and screw out. With my method, he should be able to remove the entire screw and not have to try to drill the rest of it out damaging the threads on the wheel itself. I apoligise if my post was unclear.
Chrome,
You should be able to buy a decent bolt extractor at any Pep Boys store. The reason I say stay away from the cheap extractors is that they often snap or do not grip properly. They are no harder than a common drill bit. Make sure that the one you buy is at least hardened steel. Too bad you don't live near me. I have a complete set of Snap On extractors that are hardened titanium used for aircraft. I would gladly lend you the one that you need. We both live in Columbus, just different Columbus'.
Teh reason that the bolt is siezed is because it is a metal bolt in an aluminum wheel. When you have this combination you run the risk of corosion in the threads locking the bolt in place. sometimes with a brass drift you can break it free by smacking the head through the drift but most of the time you will need to drill and re tap or even Helicoil the threaded part of the wheel to get the cap back on.
Since the bolt is chromed it isn't a real hevy grade of steel (grade 8 bolts will become too brittle durring the chroming process to be useable) so you should be able to drill the head off and remove the cap. once the wheel is removed you can try to lube the threads to remove the stud but in most cases you will find that the corosion will hold the bolt too tight and will just keep slipping. Using a diegrinder and a 3" cut off wheel cut the rest of the bolt off flush with the wheel, center punch the flattened stud and drill it out. Make sure to drill streight down the center of the bolt otherwise you will ge screwed. once again try to ues an easy out but if it feels like it isn't going to give then don't force it, Easy outs are made from hardened high carbon steel and will not be affected by drill bits (a real quick way to dull a drilll bit) if this will not free the bolt then you will need to buy a tap that is the corect size and thread count for the bolt holding on the cap. the tap will have a drill bit size either printed on the side of the tap or on the package. drill out the hole and tap it out to the size and purchase new retaining bolts.
To keep this from happening again when you purchase the replacement bolts (usually they are a 5/16 national course thread or a metric size that I am unsure of the acuall size) try to get stainless steel as it will have less of a reaction with the aluminum. Also treat the threads of any bolt with an antisieze compound, Permatex makes it and you can purchase it at any hardware store. The antisieze will stop all corosion between the metals and make it easy for you to remove the caps.
I hope this helps. If you are a little reluctant to just start drilling on your wheel then please by all means take it to a machine shop and have a profesional do the work on it.
"AAHHH Teamsters, If only I could be as lazy and surley as a Teamster." Quote by Homer Simpson
all you need is a hand impact wrench. you hit the end of it with a hammer and turn with your hand...
Thanks for the help Accordlx, I followed your instructions and it worked beautifully!
All Praise3geez
2.25 Sprint drop w/ Bilstien struts in rear & Koni's in the front, moddified 94-97 Accord CAI, JDM power folding mirrors, Prelude A arms, Naxos exhaust, K&N Filter, Accel coil, Advanced timing, NGK-R plugs, 7.5mm wires, Apc H4 headlight conversion, PIAA hyper plasma bulbs every where, 17" Exel Maj rims wrapped in 205/40 17 Kumho tires, w/ 5% platinum tint, painted calipers & drums, shaved tail lights, moldings, antana, squirters, and emblems, Clarion DRB3675 head unit w/ Clarion 6x9s
Hey that's great I'm glad it worked for ya.:super:
Glad I could help.
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