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Thread: Removing vac. lines w/weber installed

  1. 03-19-2003, 08:48 PM #1
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Removing vac. lines w/weber installed

    Ok, I understand that I will most likely lose my cruise control if I do this but my cruise doesn't work the best anyways. I read the how-to's. All I really have to do is unplug that black box and then take out all the vac. lines. I think all of them are plugged already b/c of my Weber conversion. What I want to know about is that little tree thing that has 3 vac. lines connected to it. Can I remove all of these? What do each of them do? And will I lose my A/C if I remove the vac. lines? Thanks a lot. I finally made a throttle return spring bracket so I can hook that up when I take the vac. lines out. Thanks again.
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  2. 03-20-2003, 11:31 AM #2
    A20A1
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    Take the vacuum lines out... but save all the parts for later...
    Anyways after you remove all the lines you can most likely get the A/C to still work... but then I never tried it before since I took my A/C out long ago.
    I doubt the A/C is dependent of vacuum anyways... I always figured the vacuum lines were there to controll the idle when the A/C was on... not controll the A/C
    - llia

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  3. 03-20-2003, 12:01 PM #3
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Ok I have the black box unplugged and I started it and it idles better. What I'm concerned about is the stuff that all the vac lines are hooked up to on the drivers side of the engine. I have all of the bolts out of the manifold. I have everything marked off that I need to plug on the pass. side but I don't know what to do with all of the stuff on the drivers side? Do I just plug everything? If I plug something can that thing be removed for good?
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  4. 03-20-2003, 12:45 PM #4
    A20A1
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    http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/weberinstall.html

    did you not see my weber install how to?

    anyways once the intake manifold looks like that.. you will have 2 large and one medium vacuum line that has to be plugged.
    - llia

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  5. 03-20-2003, 12:52 PM #5
    A20A1
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    Oh be careful when visiting my geocities site... it tends to shutdown after only a few times of just loading the page... so load the page and print it if you have to.
    - llia

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  6. 03-20-2003, 12:53 PM #6
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    I did read that and that's not what I need help with though. There's the vacuum lines that run on the drivers side. Is that big round thing the cruise and it has a cable going to the firewall. What do I do with all of the things that the vac. lines are hooked up to? If I just plug them, then what do I do with the wire they're connected to? Do I just cut them or what?
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  7. 03-20-2003, 01:06 PM #7
    A20A1
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    leave them as is... just move the vacuum lines out of the way... later On you might be able to get something to work... If you want to remove the Cruise controll then just unbolt the entire part and disconnect the cable from the pedal on the inside of the car... i think there are some other things that need to be unbolted from the bedal when you remove the cable.

    As for the A/C stuff just leave it alone... the wires that you unplug from the cruise controll you can move them out of the way but don't cut them.
    - llia

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  8. 03-20-2003, 01:08 PM #8
    A20A1
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    I mean you still want the A/C right? if you don't then remove everything on the right side of the car. Vacuum lines and vacuum hard lines can go... the wires you just unplug and push then thru the hole in the fender or firewall.
    - llia

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  9. 03-20-2003, 01:10 PM #9
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Ok Im going to go out and try again. I don't want to cut a brake line or anything. hopefully I car figure this out soon.
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  10. 03-20-2003, 01:15 PM #10
    A20A1
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    the brake lines are the hard lines along the side of the strut tower... they are skinnier then the vacuum hard lines and are not as easy to remove... the hard lines for the vacuum just unbolts from the car.
    - llia

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  11. 03-20-2003, 01:48 PM #11
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Ok I guess I did this out of rage, but I just cut all of the vac. tubes on the drivers side and then removed that round thing and cut the cable and removed the wires from the harnesses. I hope the brake things are not near the vac. tubes b/c I cut everything.
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  12. 03-20-2003, 02:11 PM #12
    A20A1
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    you cut the cable? Thats never a good Idea.. you can blow fuses if you cut a positive wire and a negative wire at the same tme.
    - llia

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  13. 03-20-2003, 02:13 PM #13
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    I have the battery disconnected. What do I do with the vac tubes going to the vac. advance diaphram near the distributor?
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  14. 03-20-2003, 02:19 PM #14
    mindlos
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    Originally posted by A20A1
    ....
    I doubt the A/C is dependent of vacuum anyways... I always figured the vacuum lines were there to controll the idle when the A/C was on... not controll the A/C
    Do our cars have A/C cutoff at WOT. Coz thats another factor. Whose got a big fat vacuum diagram including A/C and stuff that is readable? I feel inspired.
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  15. 03-20-2003, 02:24 PM #15
    mindlos
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    Originally posted by Mike's89AccordLX
    I have the battery disconnected. What do I do with the vac tubes going to the vac. advance diaphram near the distributor?
    Hook them to manifold vacuum port close to the firewall. You only need #2 (the inside one) but you can also hook up the cold advance #25 (outside) using a Y/T-connector to help cold warmups.
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  16. 03-20-2003, 03:25 PM #16
    A20A1
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    Alright I think I have everything figured out I have the small vac line to big vac line adapter thing now. What I have a problem with now is theres 3 little tubes coming out of the back of the manifold that need to be plugged, well I was pulling out the old hose and this little blue piece broke off. I don't quite know what else to do now. How should I plug that?
    #18 the nipple broke
    It looks like with the weber it's supposed to be plugged. So what should I do to plug it with the nipple part broke off?


    on the off chance your mailbox is full again... I'll post the answer here.

    you don't need to worry about the thermovalves... they were there to controll the choke on the stock carb.
    - llia

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  17. 03-20-2003, 04:04 PM #17
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    so just plug them? The one that the nipple broke off I took my soldering iron and melted it shut. I just hope to god that my car will run right. I have to say it looks sweet with the lines removed. Gotta go to the store and get three big bolts to plug up the vac. lines on the manifold.
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  18. 03-20-2003, 04:09 PM #18
    A20A1
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    no not bolts... use vacuum caps... don't you have an auto store nearby?
    - llia

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  19. 03-20-2003, 05:17 PM #19
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Well I gotta say thanks a lot A20A1 and Mindlos and DXHATCHBACK for all of the help that you guys gave me. The engine looks f*cking tight and it runs a lot better. I haven't driven it just idle and I revved it to 4k rpms so I know it should be good.
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  20. 03-20-2003, 07:14 PM #20
    Mike's89AccordLX
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    Alrighty, it works. I drove it for about a half hour and it ran fine. I just noticed a stutter at about 2500rpms but it went away after driving it for awhile. It looks a lot better now. I think eventually I will remove everything that isn't needed, b/c I will turn it into a racer.
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  21. 03-20-2003, 09:01 PM #21
    A20A1
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    so hows the carb jetted now?
    - llia

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