Camshaft How To

[1988starter]

Disclaimer::
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First Spelling errors or bad grammer Please deal with it. Second buy a manual or download one from http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/ it will come in handy. Third read up and make sure you have all the tools needed. And finally I am not responsiable for you fubaring (fubar~ fucked up beyond all reconition) you car.
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Tools list
Sockets between 10-20 mm
Socket extensions
Socket wrench
Pliers or ajustiable wrench
Bar to hold cam gear in place
Zip Ties
Torque wrench
Flash lite
Feeler gauges
Cam card with valve specs
Timing light


Optional equipment

Shop lite
new cam seal
new valvecover gasket and grommits
Spark plug socket.
Extendiable magnet (For dropped things I would have been fubared without it)

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Start by removing the battery compleatly this helps free up some room. I have no pict for this if you cannot do it your self then stop now and take you car to a shop!!! Also the battery tray makes for a handy tool holder.

Then remove your valve cover and cam gear cover. (all 5 bolts 10 mm on my car.)




After that is compleated use a 17 or 19 (I think) mm socket and an extention to turn your crank (pulley with bolt in the middle located behind the driver tire) so your number one cylinder is facing Top Dead Center.(TDC). Remove the spark plugs first to relieve pressure Also you may want to turn your wheel all the way to the left to gain easier access.



Then use your flashlite to look down your timing hole to see if the timing marks on the fly wheel aling with the pointer.

Next it is time to remove your distributer their are 3 bolts on the EFI and two on the CARB remove all bolts and disconect the vacume lines and plug on top of the distributer. Pull it off and it should look something like this.



Next we go to the cam gear. Ziptie the belt into place (I used 4 or 5) then shove a metal object through the spokes and loosen the bolt. BEFORE you take off the gear realign it to (TDC). Now remove the bolt and slide the gear off keeping it taut so the belt does not slip from below. Be very carefull not to loose the woodruff key that is between the cam shaft and gear. it is like a little peg that slides into a slot on the shaft. Use a metal rod to keep the gear taut and inplace.



Now on to that pesky rocker arm assembly. Remove all 12 bolts pictured below. TURN EACh BOLT ONLY 2 FULL TURNS AT A TIME.
The proper order is

11 7 3 2 6 10
12 8 4 1 5 9


Make sure not to remove the bolts leave them in the holes because they hold the rocker arm assembly together. Pull straight up and the assembly will come off now just lift out the cam shaft. It should look something like this.





Now lay the new cam shaft in place with the key slot facing up like it did before. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly tighting the bolts only 2 turns at a time. Then tighten down to 16 Ft/lbs of torque.. This is important so make sure to use a torque wrench. After all the bolts are tight check them again the proper order is in the pictre below. Tighten the two over the distrivuter as 11,12




Now replace the distributer and cam gear. Be very carefull not to loose the woodruff key in the process I used a dab of high temp grease to hold in in place. After every thing is reatached it is time to reajust the valves. Look at the cam card that came with you shaft for the proper specs. (I suggest doing this with a very cold engine)

REMOVE THE ZIPTIES. With the No. 1 cylinder at TDC loosen the 3 12 mm bolts on the valves (pictures below). Ajust back and forth with a flat head screwdriver. The feeler gauge should slide with a slight drag between the stud and the valve, with the next size up not fitting. Turn the crank again so the gear moves 1/4 turn counterclockwise so the up mark alings with the head and tighten cylinder #3. Continue to do so with cylinder #4 then #2.






Replace everything the valve and cam cover also the battery. Start the car listen for slapping and tapping of the valves.. Let the car warm up ajust the timing and set your idle (I had to raise mine a bit). Raise a little for mild shafts and a lot for wild shafts. Enjoy

By 1988Starter

[A20A1]

I thought the crank was 19mm, and removing the spark plugs should be done either way... it makes turning the crank way easier, and you can take note of their condition.

good how-to... I'm still rreading it though.

[1988starter]

I think it is 17 mm on mine but I will edit something to reflect the possibality ok it is done. Aside from that what else did I miss and what do you think.

[A20A1]

I actually removed the rocker arm assembly first then tilted the camshaft to slide off the cam gear... then I remove the key from the old cam.
Then I got the new cam with new cam seal and put the key in the slot and slid back on the cam gear and lay the new cam back into place.

Oh yeah I cleaned up the cam bearings before installing the new cam and poured some fresh oil onto the bearings and over the camshaft. Its very important the cam and bearrings are lubed, during the first few moments after you start the car for the first time.

[A20A1]

Originally posted by 1988starter
...Aside from that what else did I miss and what do you think.

Very good job...

I only ended up taking 2 pics when I was doing my cam install how-to... I sort of got caught up in the moment and forgot to take the rest of the pics... I just wanted to get it done and be on the road driving.

...
I think what we need is a clear picture of the cam positions for each cylinders TDC. I'm looking around for a direct side shot of the head with or without the cam gear installed... then I can just edit in the lines so other people will know what to look for when alligning the cam gear.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Damn, I don't know if I would feel comfortable installing that myself. I have the money for the camshaft now but I dont know if I would have enough for someone else to install it. I guess I was overwhelmed by the pictures I saw and all the stuff I havn't dealt with before. On a scale of 1 to 10 what would this be for difficulty? Thanks

[1988starter]

I wasn't too bad the part I worried about the most was the valve ajustment So I tryed it out on my stock set up and it went off without a hitch actually I have had no problem and never heard a tap when ever I have ajusted valves. But as for the process i would saw maybe a 5 where an intake is a 1 and a full rebild is a 10 and A20A1 i will try to get a dig pic of that for you.

[2old_honda]

those pics dont seem to be working

[2old_honda]

you might want to replace your water pump while the t-belt is loose.

[anchovies]

That's a good how-to. The crank bolt is 17mm on mine. And the timing belt is not loosen to make things alot simpler, so change your water pump some other time.

Something to add:
1) Turn your wheels all the way to the left so that you have room to turn the crank pulley.
2) And make a mark on your distributor and the cam bearing so that you don't need a timing light when you put it back on.

The easy way to get TDC on the cylinders, is of course to have number 1 at TDC before doing anything. The UP mark on the cam gear is on top with the grooves lined up with the head. The distributor rotor is pointing at number 1in the distributor cap.

And when it's time to check and adjust the clearances, make a mark on the crank pulley. Adjust no. 1 valves.
Then turn the crank pulley 180 degrees (judging by the mark you just made) and looking at the cam gear (the cam gear will turn 90 degrees). Groove on top, UP mark lined up with the outside of head. Adjust no. 3 valves.
Then turn the crank another 180 degrees. The cam will turn 90 degrees. UP mark at bottom, two grooves lined up with head. Adjust no. 4 valves.
Then turn another 180 degrees on the crank pulley. Groove on top, UP mark to the inner side of head. Adjust no. 2 valves.

[ACCORD EX]

this post will be on for a week for anu comments then will be moved to the how to 's !( author demands ! )

MIKE

[smufguy]

thas an amazing how-to u got there starter. Do u have this on ur website or something? cause i would loveeee to link it from my website. Damn dude, this is one hot writeup. Awsome job. i cant wait to get everythign setelled and get a camn. its gonna be sooo much fun.

[1988starter]

Originally posted by anchovies
That's a good how-to. The crank bolt is 17mm on mine. And the timing belt is not loosen to make things alot simpler, so change your water pump some other time.

Something to add:
1) Turn your wheels all the way to the left so that you have room to turn the crank pulley.
2) And make a mark on your distributor and the cam bearing so that you don't need a timing light when you put it back on.

Anchoves I have added the wheel thing but as for the mark. Well you you have a reground cam it retards the profile to that the old perfect timing is now way retarded.. I have mine to max advance and it barely makes it to the right timing mark.

[1988starter]

Originally posted by smufguy
thas an amazing how-to u got there starter. Do u have this on ur website or something? cause i would loveeee to link it from my website. Damn dude, this is one hot writeup. Awsome job. i cant wait to get everythign setelled and get a camn. its gonna be sooo much fun.

I don't currently have it on my site but I will soon also it will be going on the 3geez how to section soon.

[A20A1]

Hmm are you sure thats right? I set my distributor to TDC with the advance vacuum lines upluged...
The only reason it doesn't reach the timing advance marks when I plug back in the vacuum lines is because of the lack of vacuum, I only pull around 8" with my wild cam, I'm pretty sure you'll be pulling more then that.
I really think it would be better if you didn't rotate the distributor too far to get it to meet the advance marks on the flywheel. Unplug the vacuum lines, set it to TDC and rotate the distributor only like 3 degrees. It up to you though....

[dhcarss]

you can change you water pump without even touching the timming belt.......already did it

[ACCORD EX]

Originally posted by dhcarss
you can change you water pump without even touching the timming belt.......already did it

how is that ! ?? doesn't the timing belt go over the pump ?


MIKE

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well I read this how to over and over and I think I can handle the job when I get a torque wrench and feeler gauge. The only thing I don't know how to do is set the timing. If I mark the distributor off can't I just put it in the same spot or will it need to be changed?

[mindlos]

Originally posted by ACCORD EX
how is that ! ?? doesn't the timing belt go over the pump ?

The water pump is on the same belt as the alternator outside the timing belt housing, and the PS + A/C on another, at least on my carbed.

[2old_honda]

It is MUCH easier to change the water pump with the timing belt out of the way.

[ACCORD EX]

Originally posted by mindlos
The water pump is on the same belt as the alternator outside the timing belt housing, and the PS + A/C on another, at least on my carbed.

i never noticed that damn ! !

thanx man !

MIKE

[smufguy]

:lol love ur humor mike :lol

[anchovies]

Originally posted by 1988starter
Anchoves I have added the wheel thing but as for the mark. Well you you have a reground cam it retards the profile to that the old perfect timing is now way retarded.. I have mine to max advance and it barely makes it to the right timing mark.

You're right, cam profile has changed. You need a timing gun to adjust accordingly to make full use of the cam. Tuning it would be the most time consuming part.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I don't have a timing light so what if I installed the camshaft and adjusted the valves and just took it to a shop to mess with the timing? Or would it be better just to buy a timing light and do it myself? I have never messed with the timing so I wouldn't know how to start.

[anchovies]

It's better to just go get a timing gun. $30-$60 so that you can tune it properly.
But it doesn't really matter if you keep it at what you have, it's just tuning and making max use of your cam.