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Thread: Serious Help Need 87 DX Accord ?

  1. #1
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    Serious Help Need 87 DX Accord ?

    OK I'VE ASKED 4 TO 6 FORUMS ABOUT THIS AND EVERYONE HAS POINTED ME TO GO HERE SO HERE I AM ..........


    My car has this problem seriously probably i'll start by telling you where I got the car

    I live in vancouver canada I imported this vechile about a year ago from Bay Area California it was rebuilt with the newest parts on the lot never had a problem its an AUTOMATIC with 211 kmh on it!!!. I brought it here with no problem passed air care drove it down here not one problem never had the problem im about to mention winter went by and then I dont remember the first time this started happen but to date its happen 4 times each time 2 to 4 months apart! IT would last 2 to 1 week but this time its come to stay it looks like .......

    Now the problem!

    When im driving lets say and I come to a red light up ahead say your going 60 kmh well you push the brake the gas goes down the rpms same when you hit one rpm its supposed to bounce up but instead my rpms just keep going down right above the " 0 " mark and hovers my engine shakes furiously and then turns off if it doesn't turn off it shakes furiously and then goes up and down to one and back down and so on ! !!!

    Or when I am coming to a right turn without stoping and just turn right my cars rpms drop and car turns off everything goes off while my car is in DRIVE ...... the brakes get some what hard to push and I can't turn to well unless i try hard!



    As you can see I have a serious problem with the car turning off ?


    People have mentioned to me

    It might be a leak ! ! ! " well if it were a leak why wouldn't this problem be constant I've had it come and go it gets worse and better ? ? "


    I am thinking its the carburator but then again I know nothing my dad used to be a mechanic in his old days but he is also amazed that he can't figure out the problem!

    We've changed the distributor cap and rotor we've change the spark plug wires and plugs! I can't seem to find whats wrong ?

    I think idle timing might be an affect we've changed that a few times so the car wouldn't turn off but with no luck now

    What can i do what is the problem PLEASE!

    HELP Please ......... its being a pain when I have to put my car in neutral when I ddrive an automatic and I come to red lights and my car turns off and people are honking at me !





    IF someone lives in vancouver canada or around I am willing to pay not as much as most mechanics ask but enough to help me figure out what the problem is ?
    ICQ: 153187272

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  2. #2
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    I would start with fuel filters (both). Then if problem was still there put a pressure gauge teed into fuel line and with added hose length so you could moniter it when this fault occurs. Have it sticking out hood and not pinched with hood closed. FUEL PUMP?

  3. #3
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    I would start with fuel filters (both). Then if problem was still there put a pressure gauge teed into fuel line and with added hose length so you could moniter it when this fault occurs. Have it sticking out hood and not pinched with hood closed. FUEL PUMP?
    Well im planning on changing the fuel filters .... wheres both I only seen one in my car under neath the back wheel ?

    What is this fuel line ? never seen it ? How do i add length ? Would fuel addedtives clean the flue ? and help ?
    ICQ: 153187272

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  4. #4
    SEi User TeKKnoTeKK's Avatar
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    Seems like someone was having the same problem and it was something like the main relay. Once everyone sees this I am sure there will be an explaination for it.
    -Aaron-
    "I play russian roulette everyday, a man's sport, with a bullet called life"



  5. #5

    PhydeauX's Avatar
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    Check it for vacuume leaks. The hard breakes and steering are because the power assist doesn't work when the motor isn't running.

    andy

  6. #6
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    Before i got the same problem that you when i am driving in d4, and when i come to a stop the rpms goes very low and the car shake. But i found that the problem do not occur or less when i drive in d3 because the car downshift at a higher rpms. Try this first and if you see some improvement you need to check the TV CABLE.

    Like the others guys said its can also be a problem with the fuel system.
    good luck and gives us news

  7. #7
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    Hey does your idles speed is ok?

  8. #8
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    Check it for vacuume leaks. The hard breakes and steering are because the power assist doesn't work when the motor isn't running.

    Thanks for the info about brakes and steering! I'll check this weekend for vacuume leaks for sure ? Is there a specific way I should do this

    Before i got the same problem that you when i am driving in d4, and when i come to a stop the rpms goes very low and the car shake. But i found that the problem do not occur or less when i drive in d3 because the car downshift at a higher rpms. Try this first and if you see some improvement you need to check the TV CABLE.

    Putting my car in d4 or d3 makes no difference only for one sec the rpms go up and then it drops back to how it is normally I only use down shifting when im turning right so my car doesn't turn off but its very hard to look at rpms and drive almost killed me a couple times! .... What is the TV CABLE ? ...... And like i said down shifting never helped me if anything it makes the rpms drop to zero even worse and faster!



    Hey does your idles speed is ok?

    Is my idle speed ok well my dad raised it because i told him how my car kept turning off so he raised it so the rpms wouldn't go down but they still do no matter how high you raise the idle speed ? Is there a specific number its supposed to be on could this be causing the problem ? ......... When i turn the car on and keep it in park the rpms dont drop they stay over 1 and half pretty decent it does move 1 cm up and down and if you get out of the car you can hear the muffler choking giving air and then choking like its coughing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ? ?


    THanks for the help guys this new information is really helping me!
    ICQ: 153187272

    MSN: [email protected]

  9. #9

    A20A1's Avatar
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    The shaking is just the car running sporatically from lack of fuel in one or more cylinders...

    But the lack of fuel is either caused by a clogged fuel system... but more likely a vaccum leak.
    You need high vaccum to suck the fuel out of the carb @ idle speeds.

    Fuel additives sort of hide the problem... if the filter is dirty it will still need to be changed... the second filter is in the engine bay on the driverside of the car... by the firewall.

    To check for Vaccum leaks
    You'll need to remove the air cleaner... it's the rectangular metal box that hold the air filter. there are a few vaccum lines and pipes that will have to be removed and plugged... the details of which I can't go into right now.
    - llia


  10. #10
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    Thanks i'll try all the recommendations and get back to you guys on monday!!!!!!!
    ICQ: 153187272

    MSN: [email protected]

  11. #11
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    Update the cars running fine now but no problems what so ever went back to normal but this is my problem its going to come back ? ?


    Is this some of the problems a vacuum leak causes ?

    IF it were a vacuum leak wouldn't the car go on and off constantly and never stop ? Cause now its stop back to normal idle and everything ? ? ?!
    ICQ: 153187272

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  12. #12

    PhydeauX's Avatar
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    Vacuume leaks can be intermittent, a line can work its way loose then work its way tight again, a hose can have just a slight crack in it that only leaks some times. Intermittent problems are the hardest to track down, you probalby wont find it untill it starts running bad again.

    Another thing you can try is to learn to use your left foot to brake when it starts acting up, so you can tap the gas with your right to keep it running.

    andy

  13. #13
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    The fuel line is near the master cylinder and is red. There is a smaller filter on it. You can add another longer length of fuel hose between the carb itself and this filter with a tee fitting for the pressure gauge. Changing the fuel filters is basic mantinance and will add more life to your fuel pump with less restrictive flow. And if you didn't want to put a pressure gauge inline, you could just see how fast a pop bottle fills up. Disconnect fuel line add carb and put a extenstion on it and lead it into a bottle then turn engine over and see how it pumps fuel. It should fill up fast,30 seconds.
    Vacum leaks can be traced down with starting fliud spray ed around lines and pcv and intake/bottom carb area/just be very careful and don't spray a whole lot at once. If rpm's increase from idle thats bad. cause thats air getting into engine where its not helping-not mixing right with fuel.Hope this helps

  14. #14
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    two routine maintenance steps plus a cheap fix could solve this problem.

    replace both fuel filters, its always good to do that....

    replace pcv valve... could seriously effect your vacuum, plus its routine maintenance anyways....

    and of course, the relay from hell.... speaking from experience go get yourself a FUEL CUTOFF RELAY from the scrap yard. replace the one you got... the main transistor on the relay heats up something fierce and will cause the car to act in the way you mentioned..... I experienced this. If you're car is acting up, reach down and put your hand behind the fuse panel under dash... if its toasty, then you know the relay could definitly be a problem. The typically heatup and malfunction when they're starting to go....

    thats just my two cents... could me a million other things but at least these are simple and easy to do
    CoAsTeR

    88' Honda Accord LX
    www.coastersride.cjb.net
    Visit my website for pics and how-to's

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the advice guys im going to go and try all of it probably this or next weekend before I gotta go to


    AIRCARE ( CANADA ) / SMOG TEST ( AMERICAN )

    ICQ: 153187272

    MSN: [email protected]

  16. #16
    DX User
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    HEY A LITTLE UPDATE HERE ...

    I took your guys advice and i added my advice I was going to slowly change the parts each week repairing the next part well I changed the spark plug wires and cleaned the air intake with a can of carb cleaner while it was running ........ and cleaned the spark plugs


    And now my car has gotten better only when the car is hot but when its cold it has the problem??

    Any new suggestions ?
    ICQ: 153187272

    MSN: [email protected]

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