Got my Delta Cam today!

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I just got the cam in the mail like 5 minutes ago. I got two huge DELTA CAM stickers, they're like a foot long by 2.5 inches. Gotta add like 20hp a piece. But anyways, the specs are:

Grind type: 272
Application: 672
Specs. INT EXH.
Duration Deg. .272 .272
Valve Lift .420 .420
Valve Lash .008 .010


It was exactly one week to get to me. What really sucks now is that I don't have enough money to buy a torque wrench unless anyone knows where I can get a cheap one for like $10.

Guess what I just found out also. I found the transaction slip and it said that the total sale is $88.25 (including the core)
The list price was $65.98 The core value was $30.00 But the charged me for the unit price instead of the list, so I got a deal. They charged me $49.60 for the grind and it was $8.65 for shipping. That's pretty good hp:money ratio

[89AccordLvr]

hey if I get a cam from delta could I just take it to a good mechanic and get him to do the cam install or do i have to install it myself or a friend.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

You can take it to a mechanic but they will charge you from $250-$280. I read the how-to and it seems fairly simple if you have the right tools. Which I will be getting.

[bobafett]

so we can expect to pay about $25 more or what?

did you get a mild or wild grind? i cant tell from looking at the specs!

let us know how it turns out man!

[1988starter]

Good to hear and I like the specs better than the ones you listed before I hope it does well.. But I have a feeling that it will not add nearly as much power as the sickers. any way if you have any quistions on install just tell me.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Thanks a lot 1988starter. I know those stickers are hard to beat. And bobafett I think that price is for everyone. When I send the core back I'll get $30 back still. So really all you'd be paying for is the $49.60 I don't think I was just a special customer so I'm sure that you can get it at the same price. I think they just call it a list price but that's not what the actually sell it for. And for anyone else that gets a deltacam the specs are on the side of the box on a sticker. Don't freak out like I did and wonder where the specs were Oh and what is high pressure lube (need it for the cam lobes)?

[1988starter]

I pressure lube?

[A20A1]

High pressure lube... Sometimes they call it Assembly Grease.
hopefully they are the same thing.

Anyways It's just to keep the parts lubed durring the initial break in period.

I used my 20w-50 molor oil and coated the cam and cam bearings.... maybe I should have went lighter... I dunno, it was better then nothing.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Well I would need to use the same motor oil b/c its fully synthetic. Would it be ok if i used my AMS fully synthetic 5W-30? I can't swap different oils. I emailed DX the sticker pic so if you want to see them then ask him to post it.

[dXsquared]

[anchovies]

272 duration is more like it.
Put it in and let us know.
If you can get the .050" and lobe separation angle from delta that'll be great.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I have a question. When I adjust the valves what specs do I use to adjust them? Does the valve lash mean how much room I need to have? I think the only problem I am having with the install is adjusting the valves. I haven't started the install yet (need to find someone with a torque wrench)

[A20A1]

who needs a torque wrench... use the force.

Anyways valve lash is the distance between the valve stem and the little pusher on the rocker arm above the valve stem.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

So I must use the valve lift then. The valve lift is the distance I need to adjust the valves? Or could you please tell me what specs I need to adjust the valves so I don't make myself look like a complete dumbass? I just talked to an old friend and I think he might want to help with the install.

[A20A1]

Valve Lash .008 .010

thats what you use...
that is the distance between the valve stem and the tappet thingy above the valve stem... it shows you a pic in the how-to about where to slide in and out the feeler guage...

did you get one with a .008 and .010 feeler guage?

oh and wear some disposable latex gloves... it makes clean up a lot easier... and you'll be working around the old oil for a while, I dunno it's just better to have them. I normally am too lazy or too cheap though myself, to use them.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I have to check I have an old one that might have it but I think I will just buy a new one.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Alright I bought a torque wrench (found one for $10), 1/2 to 3/8 socket adapter, a feeler gauge (32 blades), T-handle spark plug socket. All of it cost me $21. I thought it would be easier to put in sockets and it was cheap. And I was wondering, this guy told me that when adjusting the valves you have to measure the valve lash and put a little bigger blade in so it will be right. He said that some cam specs are measured cold and some are measured warm. For instance the intake .008 would be .010 and exhaust .010 would be .012

I would like to install the camshaft wednesday or thursday so I will need all the help I can get. And would it be ok to use that 5W-30 Motor oil that I have to lube the whole camshaft?

[PhydeauX]

The best thing to do is warm the engine up first then set the valve lash. .008 and .010 are the numbers colt gave me as well when I got a cam from them. Those were hot, I'll assuem yours are too. When you first put the cam in just do a quick adjustment of the valves, not worrying too much about accuracy or anything. Let the motor run untill the temp gague is at is normal operating point. Once its not pull the valve cover off and adjust the valves to those specs. Be careful everything under there gets really hot. The only hot metal your actually going to have to touch is the valve cover. Don't even think you can run the car with the valve cover off, you'll be in for one hell of a mess if you do.

andy

[1988starter]

i got .006 and .007 so I did it cold no problems no slaping or tapping.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

Hey thanks for the advice. When I run the engine to get the valves warm do I just do the break in period right then? When I first adjust the valves, do I just do what the specs say for the gaps? Or go a little bigger like that dude said?

[1988starter]

Give delta cams a call and ask them or just ajust the cold start the engine and listen.

[PhydeauX]

Do them to the spec that you were given and do it when the motor is hot. Making the gap bigger is just loosing power. The break in happens after you adjust the valves and don't forget to adjust them again after you have a few hundred miles on the cam.

andy

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I'll give them a call in the morning. Does anyone know how big of a bar I should use? I have one that is like 2.5' long and 1" wide. I am getting the cam seals tomorrow morning and I'm going to install it late afternoon wednesday. I've been reading the how to over and over so I think I understand it now. I'm just going to clean the camshaft off with brake cleaner and wipe it down and then when I'm ready to install it I'm going to pour oil onto it over the head. (My car could use the extra quart anyways.) Just checked it and it needs a little more so it will be good.

[A20A1]

Bar to hold the cam gear?

what you do is loosen the cam gear bolt by hitting the socket wrench really hard on the handle while holding the socket flush with the bolt... it will free the bolt up then you can turn it by hand.

You can spin the crank by hand even with the cam gear bolt off because there is a small metal "KEY" that locks the cam gear with the camshaft.

[anchovies]

You'll probably be loosing some oil through the cam seal when you take it off. Anyway, loosen the cam sprocket bolt first before you take off the spark plugs (if you're going to) and the rocker assembly.
Install new cam and lube the cam bearings, reinstall rocker assembly then adjust the valves and then only pour the oil to lube the cam lobes. More accurate valve adjustment without the layer of oil on the cam lobes. But who really cares