Ok, I want to do a swap to my hatch-but i want a fair amount of power for the money!!! I want to do the B18 so i have more power but I want something stronger than the b16!!! Has anyone done this swap with some mild internals and what is your best E.T.!!! I want to able run lower 14s with mild internals-cams, valves, retainers etc!!!:super:
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
u cant hit 14s with just the motor swap and cams, though u have a intake and an exhaust with wt/reduction or what not. Juan (Oldschoolswap) hit 16s with is swap without nitrous. So go figure out what u can do with that motor swap of urs and what kinda tuning u need to do to get that low 14s. Turbo is ur better bet, but oh well. Lot of money invloved in a 14s.
Well for one the swap is expensive.. I would do a cr/vtec better. But is still going to be expensive. Get 4-6k and then worry about it.
-=PROJECT-=-
NOTE: Project-R Swap parts provided by Racing Impulse. Swap was Performed by RacingImpulse & Next Wave Auto Performance.
B-Series Wants You
You dont know what you are talking about!!! I have seen a stock Ls Vtec moter in an a integra run 14.6 all day!!! Our cars a lighter!!!SHIT-Im running like low 16s now!! Ther Ls vtec wood be like 170 horse!!! If anyone cant run a low 15 at least needs to learn how to drive!!!
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
Our cars are only lighter by 30 or so pounds. 170hp? I think you need a lil more research too do..Where did u reach this equation?Originally posted by Kevin
You dont know what you are talking about!!! I have seen a stock Ls Vtec moter in an a integra run 14.6 all day!!! Our cars a lighter!!!SHIT-Im running like low 16s now!! Ther Ls vtec wood be like 170 horse!!! If anyone cant run a low 15 at least needs to learn how to drive!!!
Ok, Im not sure what the horse is but its gota be close if it running about the same as an GSR!!! If you up the compression to GSR specs and have intake header, exhaust, & you can drive than you can easily hit 14s!!! I have seen it!!! You cant tell me that it cant be done-People HAD been telling me that my car wood never be fast-BUt i proved them wrong-especially on the street!!!
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
Only 30 pounds? That's like nothing, are u comparing the first gen teg?
I am doing an LS/Vtec swap as we speak. Read what you wrote again... "gotta be close if it running the same as an GSR". If I were you I would just get a GSR engine. I regret not doing that.Originally posted by Kevin
Ok, Im not sure what the horse is but its gota be close if it running about the same as an GSR!!! If you up the compression to GSR specs and have intake header, exhaust, & you can drive than you can easily hit 14s!!! I have seen it!!! You cant tell me that it cant be done-People HAD been telling me that my car wood never be fast-BUt i proved them wrong-especially on the street!!!
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
1994 Acura Integra GSR 0-60mph 7.1sec 1/4mile 15.5sec stock.Originally posted by Kevin
Ok, Im not sure what the horse is but its gota be close if it running about the same as an GSR!!! If you up the compression to GSR specs and have intake header, exhaust, & you can drive than you can easily hit 14s!!! I have seen it!!! You cant tell me that it cant be done-People HAD been telling me that my car wood never be fast-BUt i proved them wrong-especially on the street!!!
Question I have is how much power gain has to be made to drop 1 sec off the 1/4mile. I'm doubting H/I/E will drop it a second.
LSVTEC alone WILL NOT give u 170 to the wheels. im making 185whp.. wat makes u think an lsvtec would even do 170. think about my 185whp with all the set up i have. lsvtec is a good set up.. but not for daily drivers who want to have a reliable motor. as of now my car isnt even running. im always burning stupid map sensors. and i suggest u guys do an obd1 map sensor conversion if ur gonna do a gsr swap or b16. yes, a gsr will do high 14's with i/h/e.. but that's with cheaters on (drag radials as we call it here in so cal) a gsr with i/h/e will run quickest 15.1 and keep it no lower than 15.4. hell ive even see gsr's with cai do 15.7. im speaking street cars, not motor trend drivers or any professional drivers. but my point is, an lsvtec ALONE WILL NOT do 170whp unless is somewat built internally.
PEACE
jon
benson\'s 2.0 resleeved GSR block, PnP b16 head/multi angle valve job, ctr cams, hondata i/m gasket, str 68mm t/b, skunk springs/retainers, hondata s200b p30 ecu, LSD cable tranny, full race stage3 GT turbo kit (GT35R) custom 3 inch exhaust
www.full-race.com
Originally posted by ‹^› ‹(•¿•)› ‹^›
170hp? I think you need a lil more research too do..Where did u reach this equation?
You told me the same thing Matt. Now, please tell us what is the accurate HP number for a LS/Vtec engine. It seems that you have done the "Research!", so please tell us. What is the right amount of HP that this engine will produce.
Also, it would be nice to know the right amount of Torque.
Thanks matt, you are so smart!
Maurice
READ THIS:Originally posted by Coroncho80
You told me the same thing Matt. Now, please tell us what is the accurate HP number for a LS/Vtec engine. It seems that you have done the "Research!", so please tell us. What is the right amount of HP that this engine will produce.
Also, it would be nice to know the right amount of Torque.
Thanks matt, you are so smart!
Originally posted by wickedaccord
LSVTEC alone WILL NOT give u 170 to the wheels. im making 185whp.. wat makes u think an lsvtec would even do 170. think about my 185whp with all the set up i have. lsvtec is a good set up.. but not for daily drivers who want to have a reliable motor. as of now my car isnt even running. im always burning stupid map sensors. and i suggest u guys do an obd1 map sensor conversion if ur gonna do a gsr swap or b16. yes, a gsr will do high 14's with i/h/e.. but that's with cheaters on (drag radials as we call it here in so cal) a gsr with i/h/e will run quickest 15.1 and keep it no lower than 15.4. hell ive even see gsr's with cai do 15.7. im speaking street cars, not motor trend drivers or any professional drivers. but my point is, an lsvtec ALONE WILL NOT do 170whp unless is somewat built internally.
PEACE
jon[/b]
I dont care about horse specs. All i know is what i have seen and continue to see!!! The driver make the biggest thing!! This kid has an civic hatch with a B16 and sum other and his best time he could get out of it was a 14.8-my friend ran a 14.3 with it!!! Dont tell that shit cant be done-especially when i have the proof that it actually did happen!!!
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
dont tell me!! that a b16 with i/h/e will do 14.3. and u claim to have proof?? u know wat.. ill have my friend scan sport compacts cars article on that PROJECT CIVIC HATCHBACK and PROVE U WRONG that a b16 with "SUM" mods will NOT do 14.3. the only way i see a b16 hatch doing this is, stripped and gutted interior, and on nitto 555 drags. otherwise.. there's no way it will do this. ive seen too many civics with b16's at the track with i/h/e in a hatch doing only low 15's on street tires. ill try an get the article in as soon as i can find it.. from wat i see.. i/h/e on a b16 in a hatch only did 151hp and 107lbs tq from the pages of project civic. and if some of u guys read the page., it's the blue civic hatch
benson\'s 2.0 resleeved GSR block, PnP b16 head/multi angle valve job, ctr cams, hondata i/m gasket, str 68mm t/b, skunk springs/retainers, hondata s200b p30 ecu, LSD cable tranny, full race stage3 GT turbo kit (GT35R) custom 3 inch exhaust
www.full-race.com
got it
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...c_civicengine/
read it.. ull see that their civic with a minimal of i/h/e did 14.8. very impressive yes! but ur not going to tell me some street guy is going to send that 14.8 to 14.3!? r u sure it wasnt on a red light??
benson\'s 2.0 resleeved GSR block, PnP b16 head/multi angle valve job, ctr cams, hondata i/m gasket, str 68mm t/b, skunk springs/retainers, hondata s200b p30 ecu, LSD cable tranny, full race stage3 GT turbo kit (GT35R) custom 3 inch exhaust
www.full-race.com
I have a friend who builds drag Civics. He has a built Civic Type-R with a Turbo and only runs low 13's with 3lbs of boost.. My friend Aaron had a Del Sol with a B16a2. he had intake, header, exhaust, ACT clutch, light weight flywheel, GSR tranny, and adjustable cam gears and could only manage mid to low 14's. This guy here where I live had a completely built LS/Vtec and was only running mid to low 13's. The LS/Vtech doesn't make much power unless you build it up. If you use OEM parts it doesn't have much more than a b16a1. The benifit of the LS/Vtec is the torque from the 1.8lt block.
Last edited by BensAccordLxi; 04-19-2003 at 02:21 PM.
R.I.P. 1988 Honda Accord LX-i hatchback
Ok, here is what I found. Let me know what yall think!
LS/VTEC Conversion.
For the LS/VTEC you'll need the following:
1. b16a/b18c/b17 head, cams, head bolts, cam seals, and ECU.
Most people get the b16 head 'cause it's way cheaper and easier to find. the gsr combustion chamber is smaller yielding a higher CR and more hp (slightly). The best reason to use the b16a head is you can use Integra typeR (ITR) intake manifold with it, shown in figure1. As you can see, the TypeR manifold has much shorter/fatter runners than that of the b18a.
2. If you get a b16 head, you need a b16 intake manifold. Same goes for the other: you'll need the respective intake manifolds.
3. You'll also need a 92+ b16a fuel rail or 92+ Integra one if you use the ITR manifold.
4. You can use your (teg) distributor but you have to chop off one of the legs to make it fit (the one that gets in the way of the VTEC solenoid.).
5. You need to tap and seal an oil-line on the back distributor side of the head (shown below) and bore out two of the dowel pin holes on your new head. The dowel pins on the b18a/b are in the Back but the ones on the VTEC heads are on the Front so you need to enlarge the ones on the back of the head to 14mm to match your block.
6. You'll have to get a steel braided oil line, fittings, and a T joint to run the oil from the block (oil press. sender hole) to the VTEC Solenoid.
7. You need a B18a/b head gasket and an intake manifold gasket that corresponds to your manifold. not to mention a VTEC valve cover and VTEC sparkplug wires.
8. You can use your b18a/bTB, but a gsr/ITR one is recommended due to their superior flow characteristics.
9. Also, your upper radiator hose will be about 2" too short. You'll need to get a universal hose from pep boys ($10).
10. Since the most common b16a heads come from 89-91 b16a's, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND getting better/new Valve springs because after a decade or so they become soft and that's not good at all! trust me!
You should expect to pay the following:
b16a head: $300-350 USED
head bolts(10) $60 NEW
intake man $250 NEW
cams around $250 each NEW
Ecu $300
head gasket: $50 NEW
fuel rail $50 used
wires: $70
spark plugs: $10
valve cover $180 NEW or $50 USED
cam seals $15
steal braided oil line: $20-50
fittings: $10
I think that's it. this comes to $1300-1700 depending on what kinda deals you get. Expect not to rev more than 8K* without problems and 185-195hp. If you get b16a2 pistons, properly tuned you should have about 190-200 hp to the flywheel. This is more than enough to take out your local G3 GS-R! That's all I can think of.
*Disclaimer: REV AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Although, if built properly, this can be a very reliable and powerful setup, you can serious jack-up your motor if you don't take the proper precautions. Examples of this would be assuming that 10yr old springs or rod bolts are as strong as new.
Maurice
YES!! Thank you for that wonderful information!!! Everyone is like that moter sux and that it is so expensive to do!!! RIGHT!!! You can all kiss my ass now!!!!!
Cold Air intake, Apexi N1 turbomuffler w/2.25 piping, H22 injectors,gutted cat, Dc sport header, accel coil, MSD ignition, Dropzone coilovers
Well That's about $1400 dollars.. Now you need the add money your going to need to buy to swap the engine into an Accord.. That's where it gets expensive.. So You can start kissing ass now.. Just not mine.. DO ur research first..Originally posted by Kevin
YES!! Thank you for that wonderful information!!! Everyone is like that moter sux and that it is so expensive to do!!! RIGHT!!! You can all kiss my ass now!!!!!
kevin, why that 'kiss my ass now' attitude bro??
Hmm.... I have seen many GSR's run high 14's in the 1/4 on street tires. Where are you racing at denver? My 1992 civic hb si with the stock motor D16Z6 125 hp with I/H/E and 260k miles on it ran a 15.55 @ 87.76 mph in the 1/4 with street tires and full interior. Road and Track got a 16.5 in the 1/4 when it was new. I work with a guy who own's a 94 4dr civic with a B18C I/H/E and full interior on street tires and he's about 280lbs. not to mention he has a system in it ran a 14.8 in the 1/4 mile.Originally posted by wickedaccord
LSVTEC alone WILL NOT give u 170 to the wheels. im making 185whp.. wat makes u think an lsvtec would even do 170. think about my 185whp with all the set up i have. lsvtec is a good set up.. but not for daily drivers who want to have a reliable motor. as of now my car isnt even running. im always burning stupid map sensors. and i suggest u guys do an obd1 map sensor conversion if ur gonna do a gsr swap or b16. yes, a gsr will do high 14's with i/h/e.. but that's with cheaters on (drag radials as we call it here in so cal) a gsr with i/h/e will run quickest 15.1 and keep it no lower than 15.4. hell ive even see gsr's with cai do 15.7. im speaking street cars, not motor trend drivers or any professional drivers. but my point is, an lsvtec ALONE WILL NOT do 170whp unless is somewat built internally.
PEACE
If you want low 14's out of your accord instead of doing the swap and spending all that money for just mounts. Build the A20A up you could do 14's with a little work. Dhcarss has a 65 shot of N2O a I/H/E and he is running 9.7 in the 1/8 which should be close to 15 flat in the 1/4 with a little more work like head work cam and injectors TB bump up the N2O he will be in the 14's.Ok, I want to do a swap to my hatch-but i want a fair amount of power for the money!!! I want to do the B18 so i have more power but I want something stronger than the b16!!! Has anyone done this swap with some mild internals and what is your best E.T.!!! I want to able run lower 14s with mild internals-cams, valves, retainers etc!!!
87 4dr LX "It was FREE"
91 CRX Si it was only $500 hehe
or u could be like Jhonny-o running 11.9ss
Not the same.. Johnny's car is a full dragster!!... no fun..Originally posted by smufguy
or u could be like Jhonny-o running 11.9ss
Originally posted by Coroncho80
Expect not to rev more than 8K* without problems and 185-195hp. If you get b16a2 pistons, properly tuned you should have about 190-200 hp to the flywheel. This is more than enough to take out your local G3 GS-R!
Did you read this matt!? what do you think about this? and lets be serious here for a min.
Maurice
Sounds good! Wont be beat my engine.. I guess u have not taken a look at my last thread..Originally posted by Coroncho80
Did you read this matt!? what do you think about this? and lets be serious here for a min.
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