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Thread: Engine Stalling

  1. #1
    DX User
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    Angry Engine Stalling

    Hi,

    I have an accord 1989 LX with a manual transmission.
    When I start my car it works fine. It idles between 2000 and 2500 when cold I think...

    When it get warmer it will stay around 900, 1000 and as soon as I press on the clutch and stop at a stop light the engine stalls. I have to press on the gaz pedal to make it rev higer so it wont stall. As long as I am driving, it is fine but as soon as I get close to a stop light and the car slows down it wants to stall. It is awkward but sometimes if I slow down staying in gear with my foot on the clutch it will die but SOMETIMES if I slow down and put it in neutral and just use the brakes it doesnt stall as often...

    Today I bought something to clean the fuel system and carburetor and put that stuff in my gaz tank and it ran a lil better at first and a couple of hours later it didnt stall.
    It is weird because it looks like it runs ok for a while and as soon as I want to stop it can stall. Do you have any suggestions?

    By the way I put brakes on my car and we also bled them but all the time my brake pedal can go all the way to the floor but right after I will press on it again and it seems to be back to normal.
    what could it be? the master cylinder or something?

    Thanks!!!!!



  2. #2

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    Well try Seafoam and if that doesn't work then get a Weber!!!! Oh forget the seafoam.

  3. #3
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    i would check for vacuum leaks ! specially teh master cylinder's !
    about the brake pedal it's propably there is still air in the system !
    BTW YOU DON'T NEED TO remove brake line's to replace brakes ( except for replacing the caliper it self !

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  4. #4

    Mike's89AccordLX's Avatar
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    I might have a vacuum leak, but I tried listening for it but there would have to be a miracle for me to hear a vac. leak over my engine purrrr.

  5. #5

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    check your coolant level too.
    Alex.

  6. #6
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    So, if it dies as soon as I slow down and stops and it can be a vacuum leak?

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran ACCORD EX's Avatar
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    yes ! and check coolant level as Alex suggested !

    MIKE
    3geez member since October 4th 2001

  8. #8
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    i kinda have the same problem but its not when i go to stop its when i turn. it just stalls! flat out dies but turns right over when i turn the key. any help would be nice. i was going down the high way it just pfft! and died i heard the sound of it going to die again and i put in the clutch and started it and it was fine again. i am soo lost on what it is.
    You want this!? You can't handle this! 0-60 in 2 miles! hellz yah

  9. #9
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    I seem to have the same problem with my 86 Accord LX. It starts fine then stalls when I slow down to stop or make a turn. Unfortunately, the problem appears somewhat intermittent (it stalls less if it's been sitting for a few days) and no mechanic has been able to diagnose the problem. They tried cleaning the carb and gas filter but it still happens. I have driven it problem free for several hours at highway speeds but when I get to the back roads it begins stalling again. When it stalls, it starts right up but will stall again as soon as I slow down or turn again. At a light I have to keep it revved to prevent it from stalling.

    I also have an intermittent highway driving problem where I lose most of my power--it won't stall but suddenly it won't go over 30 mph. I don't know if this is related to the other problem?

    Anyone have any ideas?
    thanks

  10. #10
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    njbeach, Looks like an idle prob, does ur car idle?

  11. #11
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    When I first start it up, in general, it idles fine. Driving it is fine until I start to slow down. Then the engine cuts off entirely. I can re-start it with no problem, but if I'm still stopped (at a light) it won't maintain the idle unless I keep it revved.

  12. #12


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    I used to have the same problem. What I did was use carb cleaner several times and blew all that shit out of there. I think I used two cans. Anyway, also be positive you have no vacuum leaks. Also, I had the mixture adjusted-- mine was LEAN. That might be your problem. Ever since then I havent had any problems.

  13. #13
    LX User DanG86LX's Avatar
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    Yeah, carb cleaner is the first option. Remove the brass screen on top of carb, u can see 2 brass pipes pointing upwards at an angle (~1/4"), so called "inner (float bowl) vents". With engine at idle, spray a lot of cleaner in the pipes. Cleaner is mixed with gas in float bowl and will be sucked through the idle passages and hopefully clean it.
    If that doesnt work, u may have to remove carb top hat (6 screws) and remove the gunk deposited in float bowl.
    A common prob with 86-87 carb 3gs. When I had this prob, my gas filler pipe was rusted and dirt and dust made it through filters in carb bowl!

  14. #14


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    The filler pipe is also on recall. I'd go get that taken care of too.

  15. #15
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    engine stalling

    I have an 86 Lx that had the same problem. I tried new fuel filters, gas treatments adjusting idle, pcv valve then finally i tried the fuel pump. I guess it was just barely starting to go out so it only did it every once in a while but now i haven't had any problems yet. I just put it in yesterday its only a 50 dollar part if u can handle that.
    Low And fast is the way I live

  16. #16
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    Thank you all for your responses. I have already had the filler pipe replaced (yes, it had rusted out) as a Honda recall and had been wondering if crap from that had gotten into the tank. One detail I forgot to say is that when the car stalls as I turn or stop, it dies very abruptly, without warning.

    I'll look at the carb again and the fuel pump, too. Thanks again.

  17. #17
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    It sounds like I am having the same problem...but it's only happened a couple of times...so far. I'm teaching someone to drive stick, and for a couple of miles afterwards it stalls out when I stop or slow down. It seems as if the rpms drop a little too low, below 800 or so, and then it just chugs out and dies, but starts up again fine. The thing is, it only lasts for a couple of miles after he drives it (or tries to drive), then it's able to hold 1000 rpms at idle without a problem.

    We could just have one of us drive, but if there's a solution to this, it would be good.

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