Axle question (read before flaming) H22A->88LX

[rick_spiff]

H22A JDM into 1988 Accord LX.

The engine comparment has been modified and engine mounts fabricated. I'm away from the car for at least a week and didn't measure the axle stuff. I called driveshaftshop.com and they quoted 400~700 bucks depending on what they would have to build in order to make a working pair of axles for this beast.

Question: Is there anyplace cheaper/closer?

Everything else is coming together just fine (even the EFI conversion), I just don't wanna pay 600 damn bucks for axles. Any help U can give would be appreciated.

p.s. Questions about the swap welcome, but on e-mail only... no need to crowd the thread.

p.p.s. Picks when I decide to plug in my scanner and fight with it's drivers!

rick_spiffNOSPAMMING,BABYyahoo.com

[carotman]

Well, I'm glad you worked out the engine mount problem!!!!

You'd better show us pictures of everything :)

As for axles, you need 2 identical axles (if the engine is positioned correctly, which it should be) The H22A uses equal length axles.

The axles could even be similar to a H22A swap in a Civic. I would really check that first.

[rick_spiff]

I know there's a guy in town who's done the H22A swap into a '95 Civic, but he swears up and down the hubs use larger nuts than my car. I will check with him again.

The engine mount problem is relatively easy to take care of if you're an engineer and have a certified welder around with a full shop and plenty of time and will work for practically nothing. :D

I know that the '88 axles will physically fit with the engine in there properly, but they will last... maybe one day? I need a more permanent solution.

Someone suggested getting a pair of right hand axles for my car and splicing one onto the intermed. shaft and use the other in place of the Prelude shaft.

I have both pairs of axles just laying on the shop floor right now. The right side one I have is worn to dust, but....

And those pics, ah yes. :)

[carotman]

The Accord Axles will last long enough. People use Integra or Civic axles for 200Hp swaps so the Accords one would fit.

If the Civic uses a larger spline to go in the hub, you could have one custom made with a different outer joint (it shouldn't cost 600$)

and you're right, use 2 right side axles to have equal length ones.
(just like the B20A swap)

If the stock axles work (like you mentionned), I would just use them for now and see how long they last... they are really cheap at the boneyard :)

[rick_spiff]

Well, I just bought an '89 SE-i for my fiance. She had this p.o.s. Grand Am... long story. So, it looks like I'll trying the 'frankenaxle' route whether I like it or not.

Once I get that squared away and she's running good, then I've gotta hunt down a 300ZX Turbo and nab it's T3....

[bobafett]

nice. i do want proof but i want to belive this guy!

[Coroncho80]

Originally posted by bobafett
nice. i do want proof but i want to belive this guy!

Same here ............ What to think, what to think ............. Shit my head hurts now! :mad:

[Tref_LXI]

well when its done, take a few pictures with you holding banana. That way we all know your not a bs'er.

[goldyaccord]

Originally posted by Tref_LXI
well when its done, take a few pictures with you holding banana. That way we all know your not a bs'er.

only a banana? how about afew oranges and some hotties :D

[Vanilla Sky]

hmm... no reply... you guys wanna call this another fake?

[rick_spiff]

Away for a bit fixing the gf's car and taking on a long trip.

UPDATE: I checked the axles. I wish to measure them again, so don't consider this written in stone, but the Accord axles WILL mate up to the Prelude axles at the inner CV joint.

Once you pull off the boot, just slide the long axle piece out and put in the Accord axle. Now, I still need to find one of the right length and hope it mates up properly too.

Pics aren't back from the developers yet. The pics waiting to be scanned in show the H22A while it's in the front clip, and a crappy picture of the dash (right hand drive, baby...). The next roll has the Accord, stripped, including the motor, and the axles.

And no, I don't have a digital camera--not yet.

[rick_spiff]

btw, the SE-i has a curious whining noise in 5th gear. Kinda like metal grinding, but pretty high piched. Reverse also seems a little shakey. Nothing else is wrong with the car. Anyone have an idea of what this might be? I guessing a shifting fork gone awry.

In any case, I have a spare tranny from the A20A1 engine off of my '88 LX. This should swap right into an '89 SE-i, right?

[88LXi68]

Originally posted by rick_spiff
btw, the SE-i has a curious whining noise in 5th gear. Kinda like metal grinding, but pretty high piched. Reverse also seems a little shakey. Nothing else is wrong with the car. Anyone have an idea of what this might be? I guessing a shifting fork gone awry.

In any case, I have a spare tranny from the A20A1 engine off of my '88 LX. This should swap right into an '89 SE-i, right?

first check and replace the fluid in the tranny. 5th gear sits higher than the rest so if there isnt enough fluid it will burn right up. Secondly, the A20A1 carbed trannies do fit but they have different gearing (better highway gearing). Just letting you know that, but it will fit no problem.

[OldSchoolSwap]

Couple questions :)

-What are you planing on doing for the Hydro tranny on the H22? (remember, we have cable)

-What are you planing with wiring and OBD compatability?

I'd hate to be you in this situation :D
let me know.

[rick_spiff]

[Begin Rediculously Long Post]

Haven't checked the transmission fluid. We may have killed it (highway cruising, about 1,000 miles since we bought the car).

I _thought_ that the SE-i had lower gearing. It really felt like it, and the tach/speedo showed it, but I was witholding judgement... My A20A1 tranny should be in good shape--it was two busted engine mounts that were making a mockery of smooth clutch engagements in my ride.

so, fuild check and possible tranny swap. Not bad.


No, I did happen to notice that the H22A uses that damn hydrualic clutch (kinda hard to miss after I sprayed the garage wall with hydraulic fluid five times). The 4G Accords also use a hydraulic clutch, so that's an option, but there's no visible room to mount the master cylinder in a 3G. There's just some metal in the way, so possible cutting/painting to make a new weatherproof hole will work, but... we'll see. Now, since I got a JDM front clip, practically ALL of the hose/hard pipe is useless. The good news is that the clutch lines from a 4G Accord should work, even if I have to cut up the unibody to mount the clutch master cylinder.

btw, I have the entire pedal set / cables and such from the Prelude as well... may have to use that throttle cable, but it's awfully long. At least I have the controls for reference.

The 93 JDM Prelude VTEC motor is rumored to be OBD-I compatible (or OBD-I, whatever). I got the computer, the cruise control, and most everything under the dash, EXCEPT for the Master Relay (controls fuel pump, ties in a bunch of sensors). It's a little $70 relay box I had to dig up from the dealership. There's one of these under the dash (driver's side) in the '89 SE-i. I'm guessing a boneyard would be MUCH cheaper, but then again, these things have a history of failures, so At Your Own Risk.

The 88 LX has a large computer box underneath the driver's seat (I have totally stripped the interior of my car to do this wiring, maybe some pics soon). I don't know what this box does, but I'm hoping I can dump it soon. The Prelude computer (P13 I think) will physically mount in that location, but the wiring harness needs to be modified.

Re-wiring that harness is not for the faint of heart. I've been re-wiring electronics for over ten years. I have excellent soldering skills and this is only moderately complex compared to past projects. Not a big deal to me as such. If anyone else wants to do an H22A swap, I could probably duplicate my wiring work, but I would charge money. We're talking 30+ hours of testing, pulling, testing, cutting, testing, cursing, testing, praying, and cheering (if it works when I'm done).

I have lit a vehicle on fire due to electrical wiring mishaps. I am not eager to do it again. :)

in related notes, I can't find a distributor that will mate up to the contained coil type JDM. The '96 Integra is close enough I can make it fit by re-drilling two of the mounting holes, but I want to know what is a bolt-in swap. I'd hate to sell this car with a note that says you have to drill the distributor with a drill press every time the car needs a tune-up.

I put an Optima sealed battery in the trunk and ran (way to F*ing big) wire to the engine comparment, which gives me some breathing room. Oddly enough, my biggest worry is where the P/S & AC piping will go.

Does that answer your question? :)

The Prelude uses an electronic speedometer and not a cable type (as the 3G does). There's no tranny hanger mount on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The firewall on the 'lude is rolled back at the very top (instead of bulging outward like the 3G), and the heater pipe are in a different location. The clutch and wiring aren't my biggest problems (yet). ;)

Fuel pump? Fuel filter mount? Air filter? The list goes on and on...

[88LXi68]

Maybe this will help??

[rick_spiff]

Those are some pretty trick mods. I like the pressure guage at the end of the injector rail. It also looks like he's running standalone engine management. The wrapped exhaust manifold is probably a good idea, too.

But where's the intake manifold? I don't even see it on the engine, and I know mine is going to be right up next to the firewall (it was in the same position on the Prelude).

The local speed shop quoted me $8/ft for high pressure fuel line that I can run under the hood. I need a bit at the back end to connect the fuel pump to the hard pipe and that will finish %50 of the fuel system.

I know this is going a little off-topic, but I've been looking at the car and I swear that the fuel supply line (all metal tubing) goes INTO the passenger compartment, down the driver's side of the car, and up to the firewall. I didn't know it was even legal to run gas lines inside the car. I figured they were routed along the frame behind some kind of shield...

Can someone shed some light on this? (also double-checking the EFI conversion FAQ)

[95AccordEXR]

use the prelude axles but fabricate new suspension and a wide body kit. :)

[3G Jester]

mmm i wanna see pics of you next to the engine bay "modified' and the engine....i like the banana idea. or tear a peice of paper into a triangle and hold it up. in case you dont have bananas. and for your sake i pray you do have a working scanner and such. your still a noob so i dont know if you are aware of this boards flaming techniques.....

...but if people on here even SEE the phrase 'my scanner is in the shop' or....'i dont know why..' or....anything along those lines. you best have a full on firemans jump suit cause your ass is going to get FLAMED

[rick_spiff]

My scanner is HOOKED UP to my computer! (yay!)

The pics are SITTING on TOP of it! (yay!)

I'm just too damn lazy to scan, crop, adjust, edit.... er, I mean post. (heh heh heh...) ;)


So, an update:

I don't have a pic of the intake manifold next to the firewall, but was so close that the reinforcement that holds the A20's torque bar had to be cut off--ugly.

The metal of the inner fender well on the driver's side (you know, that stuff near the serpentine belts at the front of the engine?) will probably have to be 'pushed' back with a sledgehammer to allow the H22A belts in there.

The clutch will be a work of art... stay tunned.

With the AC core and front cross-members gone, installation will be simpler. :) Got a pic of this one, should be back from the developers Wednesday.

The rear engine mount is almost 2" too long. The front engine mount lines up pretty close, but the cross-member will have to be cut since the mount needs to come down about 3/4" Don't know about the transmission mount yet, haven't got the tranny into the car. The driver's side mount will have to be moved back and the bracket on the H22A will have to be shaved (I'm using the A20 front mount, that 'lude P.O.S. silicone mount is damaged, expensive, and too large to physically fit in it's assigned space).

A new AC compressor bracket must be fabricated - AC unit hits the front cross-member well before the engine is in the right place. While I'm at it, I want to put large bolts through the compressor--it's not terribly secure right now.

So, I'm gonna see Matrix Reloaded a few more times and finish my wedding invitations, THEN I'll scan those pics. ;)

Oh, and while I'm here, does anyone know what a 'electronic load detector' looks like?

[accordlx-i2]

I know this might be off the topic a little but this the most recent edition of "h22a swap" that is posted. I've read almost all the posts on the h22a swap and im alittle turned off about some of the responses granted some of the posts have valid arguements but like someone said were all here for help and for the intrest of the 3gen cars. before deciding to modify this 89 accord lx-i coup that by the way was given to me for work on another one of a customers cars i did alot of work and customizing on all mustangs and still do. i have a 86 mustang that i put a 96 gt motor in when everyone thought would diff but anyway my point is if someone has the desire and drive to do this swap i say more power to ya and i think all of us here (some with more exp than others) should do all we can to help for the greater good of the cars and hobby. to end i think some people are very helpful and patient and or the reason others would want to come here for info thanks and sorry so long

[3G Jester]

NO you raise a good point.

we should be more supportive. HOWEVER...it is one of the most challenging things to do..andmost expensive. and people talk a lot about it but never do it. So we jsut like to make sure they are honest.

ie: 'too lazy to scan cut paste crop ect"....if he was honestly doing it.....i would ASSUME he would be excited enough to share it to actualy do that. plus its not that much work. im sure the engine mounts took a little longer then the time it would take to scan a pic. the least he can do is offer us proof that hes doing this.

[anchovies]

accordlx-i2, i vote u for president :D

we need more bad ass motors in our bad ass 3g. A20 is one bad ass motor if correctly mod also.

[rick_spiff]

1. Never, EVER get your broadband internet service through the phone company.

2. Never, never, NEVER EVER get your broadband internet service through the phone company.

3. Repeat 1 and 2 until your ears bleed.


Now that I've got some pics scanned, the 'net connection at my house has gone down. It is an understatement of epic porportions to say that I am very angry about this. If Verizon can't keep a net connection up for more than six hours at a time, they can take their goddamn 'service' and shove it where the sun don't shine.

I'll run home this afternoon and try to get them up. Say, six hours? So far I just have the ones of the engine coming out of the Prelude clip...

[pric]

4 Hours 30 min. and counting