NOT Weber Carb!

[87DX]

Well I must be one of the few but I don't like the Weber carb. It ended up being cheaper, but that's about it. Hardly a power increase...

Well it's on and the car still runs horrible. Oh well. What you guys failed to mention is that your car STINKS when it's running. It smells like burnt fire works. I can't have my car idle for more a minute or two in a confined area with out it smelling horribly.

Also, when I take a long curve, or stop abruptly my car will die. It has to do with the new carb, what's the deal there?

Also, the mechanic turned the distributor and 'advanced' the timing. Well that's all great but I have to run an octane booster plus at the pump. I tried to turn it back but my ride runs like ca-ca. Help me! PLEASE!

Cheers,

Bob

[blazin3gen]

maybe u hooked up up wrong, havent heard any bad things about Webber's

[dXsquared]

1 thing

TUNE THE FUCKIN THING!!!

Travis

[1988starter]

Seriously it sounds way out of tune Get someone who knows whats up to work on it and buy a timing light to ajust your timing

[A20A1]

Seems like everyones slaping on webers to solve engine problems or expects mad gains without much tuning...

If you had a faulty stock carb then a properly tuned weber will cure your problems and you'll get an increase in performance. But if your car ran like crap before because of some other engine problem then don't expect the weber to help much.

anyways... who installed the weber?

Did you take care of the coolant issue? You may have coolant leaking into the intake manifold.

You could also have vacuum leaks...

Did you hook the vacuum advance line to Carb ported vacuum or manifold vacuum?

did you set the float before installing the carb?

did you adjust the idle mixture screw?

did you fix the throttle linkage and drill a new hole to get wide open throttle?

Too much ignition advance is bad... despite how welll it might make your car sound at idle.... I suggest you set you timing to TDC then make a "BASE" allignment mark from the head across to the dirtibutor body... and then turn the distributor body 3mm or 5mm from the Base mark on the head and make a new "ADVANCED" mark from the distributor back to the head.

so basicly you'll end up with one mark on the distributor and 2 marks on the head... one for base timing and the other for advanced.

it may also be an ignition problem.
If the weber's tuned right then it's spitting out more fuel so your ignition has to be up to par to burn the fuel properly.

[87DX]

Alright, that sounds like a good idea but I have NO f#ckin clue what your talking about.

I need ”laymens” instructions!

And no, no vacuum leaks, and the coolant line is hooked up correctly. (I'm disappointed that temp gauge doesn't work also)

Cheers,

Bob

[A20A1]

Looks like I need ta' make another how-to. shit.

this may take a while.

[pimp86LX]

if you need laymens terms, your best bet is to take it to a shop to get it properly tuned. The weber is the best upgrade for the money. ohya the deal with the long curve would be the float level (im pretty sure)

[87DX]

How do I fix that? Does more gas have to go into the float bowl? Or do I have to adjust the acctual float and take off the carb?

I HATE MY LIFE!

Cheers,

Bob

[Darkside]

You need to adjust the float level. remove the air filter remove the 6 screws that hold the top of the carb on, and the clip thingie on the linkage to the choke. Plastic floats need to be at 31 mm lowest and 51 mm tallest measure from the top flipped upside down to the bottom of the float. See post on Adjusting float level someone gave a good link. I think you will notice a drastic difference. I wasn't please with my weber untill I did this. Please stick with it. Tuning is the answer. Darkside

[87DX]

Sweetman...

Thank you so much!

I'll try it out and let you know what the deal is.

Also, what's the deal with the high octane and my car running like poo-poo when I retard the timing?

Why is it bad if I turn the timing up all the way and run high octane fuel?

Cheers,

Bob

[POS carb]

u need to get your carbed tuned plain and simple. Don't ask for instructions if you can't understand the terminology cuz no offense we'd problably be here forever trying to explain but carb tuning is a very tedius process that takes time even if you know what you are doing. Trust me, get it tuned.
That smell usually means your car is running rich as hell. Turn back the timing also, there's no reason why your 9.1:1 accord should require over 92 octane pump gas
as for dying yea get the float checked.

[Darkside]

If you advance your timimg. It is recommended that you run high octane to avoid detanation. Or at least thats what I've been told but I advanced my timing at the cam gear. Not sure if that matters. Also when adjusting tha fuel mixture on the weber, when you get close make really small adjustments(like the width of the screwdriver head). Hope this helps. Darside