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Thread: removed vac lines promblems help?

  1. #1
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    removed vac lines promblems help?

    Ok I did the vacum line removal(all except the manual secondary since i didn't have the part to do it) and my car won't idle below 1500rpms, it hesitates real bad and there is a poping noise in the exhaust. Please help I have to have the car running well by tommorow night for work on monday. By the way before doing this the car would usually idle at 2000rpms when starting up the you could press the gas a couple of times and it would drop to 1000rpms. I've always had idle problems but it is worse know took me 3 and a half hours today to get it from idling at 4500rpms after doing the mod. Got it to 1500 finally but still hesitates and pops. Help...



  2. #2

    A20A1's Avatar
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    you picked an odd time to do this... you see I'll need to know exactly how you hooked everyting up...


    most important is what you did with the vacuum line from the diaphragm on the left side of the carb that controlls idle... and what you did with the vacuum line from the diaphragm on the right side of the carb that controll the vacuum secondary.
    - llia


  3. #3

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    check the how to. it is been updated.
    Alex.

  4. #4
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    ok new problems occured this morning. First it wouldnt start, then I realized it was out of gas,,got it started and got it to idle unless its in gear then if you don't hold down the gas it dies. I did the vacum secondary just like it said to under the vacum line removal thread. My friend just told me he found out one of my remaining vac lines was disconnected(probably the cause of the dieing in gear.) Yeah I probably should have waited to do this. hmmmmm. hopefully it will run well enough to get to work tommorrow.

  5. #5

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    you should have only one vacuum line.
    read the NEW UPDATED how to.
    Alex.

  6. #6
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    ok I am now only running two(on to the manifold and one to the secondary) vacum line..I think the popping is from a fouled spark plug(i am getting new ones tommorrow). Now the only problem is starting. Its 70 here and the car won't start unless I close the choke plate about half way. I fixed it temporarily but how do you start the car when the choke is wide open(by the way I completely removed the choke instead of just disconnecting it. The car does have alot more power now.

  7. #7

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    when i start my car, i just push gas pedal ones, to get some gas into the manifold and crank it. it will fire up and i will have to hold the gas pedal till it warm up a bit.
    yah, removing choke plate and removing heater core on the heat plate helps a lot too.
    so are you running on manual or vacuum secondary?
    if you are running on vacuum secondary you don't need manual conversion.
    Alex.

  8. #8
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    ok I had to partially hook the choke back up. Just for the spring to keep it partally closed so when I start it in the morning. Also if i floor it the car stumbles to about 3000 then takes off(thats with a vacum secondary). What do you mean about removing the choke plate and heat plate. Would that help?

  9. #9

    A20A1's Avatar
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    Did you use my diagram to hook the choke vacuum lines?
    - llia


  10. #10
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    no the choke was accidentally destroyed. I am just using it for the spring to keep the choke partially closed till the car starts the then when the carb starts sucking in air it opens fully.

  11. #11

    shepherd79's Avatar
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    just keep choke plate open all the time.
    Alex.

  12. #12
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    if i do that the car won't start at all, and it stumbles badly till 3000. hmmm don't know what to do.

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