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Thread: Damn Battery Light!

  1. #1
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    Damn Battery Light!

    Hey guys, I was wondering how i make the damn battery light go off. I got my car fixed now because i just replaced my battery. The other thread i have is Major Tech Prob. It's fixed now and it starts but that damn light won't go off. I read the owners manual and it said to check the alternator belt if it's cracked or loose or fell off and it's still fine. Do i have to take it to a Honda dealer to have them hook their computer up to my car and clear that light or can i do it?

    Thanks alot guys,

    Chris
    *1986 Honda Accord Lx-i* 5-spd.
    17" Konig Maxxum Cam 178's wrapped in 205/40/ZR17 Kumho Ecsta Supras, Eibach Sportlines, Tokico struts, 92-95 civic custom short ram air intake, Magnaflow streetseries exhaust, 20% tint all around, Red/Black taillights, painted calipers and drums, hyperwhite corner bulbs, blue interior lights, Racing pedals, Carbon fiber shift knob



  2. #2
    SEi User TeKKnoTeKK's Avatar
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    I would just reset the ECU tp see if that clears the light.....you can unplug the ECU fuse in the engine bay for about 10 seconds, or disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes. Hope this helps
    -Aaron-
    "I play russian roulette everyday, a man's sport, with a bullet called life"



  3. #3
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    Ok, I disconnected the battery for like 15 or 20 min. and that didn't work, then i took the ECU fuse out for about a minute and that didn't work. Should the car be totally on with the engine running when i take the ECU fuse out? I don't know what to do man. How do i reset my ECU under the seat? Will that work?

    Thanks alot,

    Chris
    *1986 Honda Accord Lx-i* 5-spd.
    17" Konig Maxxum Cam 178's wrapped in 205/40/ZR17 Kumho Ecsta Supras, Eibach Sportlines, Tokico struts, 92-95 civic custom short ram air intake, Magnaflow streetseries exhaust, 20% tint all around, Red/Black taillights, painted calipers and drums, hyperwhite corner bulbs, blue interior lights, Racing pedals, Carbon fiber shift knob

  4. #4
    3Geez Veteran Bobs89LXi's Avatar
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    The battery light is not connected to the ECU. It sounds to me like it can be one of three things, one of which has already been mentioned: loose alternator belt. The other two causes are:

    1. Bad alternator brushes, which are easily replaced.

    2. Bad voltage regulator diodes, which are built into the alternator. You can replace the alternator yourself, but I have to tell you, it is a royal pain on our cars.

  5. #5

    YK86's Avatar
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    There is something still wrong with your charging system. What Bob mentioned is very likely what is wrong with your car. The car starts because you have a new battery but once that losses it's charge, the same thing will happen. If all the belts and stuff look good, remove the alternator and take it to an auto store that will check alternators for you. Removal for your car (EFI) is actually not too bad. Remove the air box in the back, unhook the wires plug, loosen the pivot bolt and adjusting nut, them remove those completely. If it's the brushes, I will show you how to do it. If it's the regulator, buy a used or new alternator.
    www.b20accord.com

  6. #6
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    if your battery light is still on, then there is somthing wrong with your alternator. get it repaired or replace it..

  7. #7
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    Thanks alot guys! The light went off tonight when i started it up. But this was later on in the night after i had started after disconnecting the battery and shit. I think i will take it to autozone and have them run a Alternator test on it. Hopefully the light stays out.

    Thanks again.

    Chris
    *1986 Honda Accord Lx-i* 5-spd.
    17" Konig Maxxum Cam 178's wrapped in 205/40/ZR17 Kumho Ecsta Supras, Eibach Sportlines, Tokico struts, 92-95 civic custom short ram air intake, Magnaflow streetseries exhaust, 20% tint all around, Red/Black taillights, painted calipers and drums, hyperwhite corner bulbs, blue interior lights, Racing pedals, Carbon fiber shift knob

  8. #8
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    Hey guys, again! Well, the damn light went off last night when i drove home but then today it's back on again? What the hell is goin on? It starts up just fine now but that damn light is so annoying. Do i have a shitty alternator or brushes whatever those are? What do you mean by brushes? I think i might just take it to the damn Honda mechanic (no, not the dealer!).

    Thanks again, one more time.

    Chris
    *1986 Honda Accord Lx-i* 5-spd.
    17" Konig Maxxum Cam 178's wrapped in 205/40/ZR17 Kumho Ecsta Supras, Eibach Sportlines, Tokico struts, 92-95 civic custom short ram air intake, Magnaflow streetseries exhaust, 20% tint all around, Red/Black taillights, painted calipers and drums, hyperwhite corner bulbs, blue interior lights, Racing pedals, Carbon fiber shift knob

  9. #9

    YK86's Avatar
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    Brushes are two pices that contact the shaft. They wear out over time and start losing constant contact so that's why the light flickers. The regulator once blown will not "fix" itself so I'm pretty sure it is the brushes. They are only $2-$3 for two and all you need is common tools and a soldering iron. If the shop tells you your brushes are worn after they test it, I will take pics of my spare alt and write up a how to for you.
    www.b20accord.com

  10. #10
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    Well guys, I think i am almost positive that i have a bad alternator. After driving for a while today, I would turn my car off and when i would go back to start it, it wouldn't start as strong as it did before. I think that the new battery is just running the belt and the alternator is shot. All the juice is gettin sucked out of the battery b/c it ain't recycling power like the alternator should be. I think i'm just gonna ge me new alternator and belt and fix the damn thing. Could one of you guys please please help me out here. Send me some VERY VERY DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS on how to get it off, how to get the belt off, how to put the new one on, how to get the damn belt on there and on there tight, What tools are needed, and maybe pictures too; if ya got'em. Thanks alot guy. I really appreciate it. How much do ya think the alternator will cost and is it a universal part? Will they have it in stock more than likely?
    Thanks again,

    Chris
    *1986 Honda Accord Lx-i* 5-spd.
    17" Konig Maxxum Cam 178's wrapped in 205/40/ZR17 Kumho Ecsta Supras, Eibach Sportlines, Tokico struts, 92-95 civic custom short ram air intake, Magnaflow streetseries exhaust, 20% tint all around, Red/Black taillights, painted calipers and drums, hyperwhite corner bulbs, blue interior lights, Racing pedals, Carbon fiber shift knob

  11. #11

    YK86's Avatar
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    Instead of us sending you a how to, you can go down to the nearest auto store and pick up a Haynes manual for $10. It's a good investment and you can learn other stuff too. Plus you don't have to wait for replies (to this thread or by e-mail).
    www.b20accord.com

  12. #12
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    how about me- I replaced both the alt and the battery an d I'm still having problems making my bat light go out- bat doesn't seem to be recieving any juice back from the alt- so where's my fault because even though the alt is new I still had it tested before I even left the store
    mods-4th gen extreme kit-3rd 3en kaminar sides,matrix short ram air, ADR 17" rims- ACT stage 2 clutch- NGK 8mm wires- Denso irridium plugs-accell 5.25 tv-dvd- 3 blaupunkt over drive 12's with clarion power amps-and kenwood exceleon components- soon to be dc sports header

  13. #13
    Banned cruznz's Avatar
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    check fuses....cant remember which,but someone will know

  14. #14
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    checked all my fuses- all are good
    mods-4th gen extreme kit-3rd 3en kaminar sides,matrix short ram air, ADR 17" rims- ACT stage 2 clutch- NGK 8mm wires- Denso irridium plugs-accell 5.25 tv-dvd- 3 blaupunkt over drive 12's with clarion power amps-and kenwood exceleon components- soon to be dc sports header

  15. #15

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    make sure all the wires are connected and are making good connections. The only reason your battery light is on is because your charging system is not doing its job properly. Have it checked at a battery shop or an auto parts store (like autozone). most places will do it for free and they'll usually be able to tell you exactly whats wrong.
    Nothin' 2 Old Racing

  16. #16
    SEi User toastyghost's Avatar
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    Same thing happened on my 3g, it was the alt. Got a new one lifetime warranty blah blah blah... someone is gonna get a killer deal from a junkyard at my expense.
    ~<+045+ygH05+>~

  17. #17
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    Check the terminal voltage at the battery while the car is running. Should be 14 volts. Maybe u got to many volts, which means the voltage regulator is shot, maybe u got more than 12, but less than 14....altenator or voltage regulator. Maybe ur not getting any charge at all.
    James

    '86 Accord LX 5spd > Bought for a hundred bucks.....Canadian. Leaks oil, has lots of rust, and is about 5 different shades of green.

    Mods: True ram intake, K&N, vacuum line removal conversion, 14" aluminum wheels, $20 cd player, $20 speakers, dual barrel air horn.

  18. #18
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    Ok easy way to tell if your alternator is fucked up- unplug everything from the alternator. Start the car and see if the light went off. If it did check the connections for rust and corrosion, if they are fine just go chuck out 125 bucks for a nice rebuilt alternator from autozone with a lifetime warranty.

  19. #19
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    so tref-lxi, if i pull the harness and the bolted-on wire from the alt, and my battery light stays on, then its my alternator right? if it goes off, then its a connection somewhere? i just got a rebuilt alternator from napa (2nd one) and i think its bad. plus, my harness connecting arm broke, so i had to glue the harness into the alternator. its all good now though, i have a parts car, so i can steal the harness from that one.

  20. #20
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    yep just start it up after the alternator is disconnected from the car in every way except the mounts. If the light is still on its your wire harness or something else connected to it.

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