Yes I running a chipped P75 using an ostrich and Crome. I also have a chip burner if anyone needs a bin burned. I will be using a moates 2timer(allows you to run 2 tunes on one chip) as a 2 step once i get the car tuned to my liking.Originally Posted by guaynabo89
I have most of the wiring(for the 86-87 to p75) in a spreadsheet that i want to add a few more details to if any one wants/needs it.
I'm running a 4th gen accord dizzy. I'm not doing the wiring work cuz i'm busy doing my B20vtec swap.
This thread has gone without a post for a few moths, so I decided to post the progress I have made and pose a few questions for the steps I need to proceed. First, the specs. I've an 89 hatchback LXi, the dizzy I bought fits the F22B2 motor (external coil, TD-59U is the part # I think), and I have a P75 ECU I've prepped to chip and a programmer to tune it with.
I've gotten the dizzy mounted to the block, without modifying anything but the dizzy. I got the idea from Swap_File, who used JB weld, which is great stuff by the way. If you look at his posts earlier in the tread, the pictures give you the idea.
I'm a strong believer in assembly as opposed to welding, mostly because it is precise and adjustable, so I found the range of mounting which could hold the dizzy without cutting off any of the legs (I did have to cut the little stub that the wire clip mounted to), which was probably 15-25° wide, and found the position of the thermostat housing in that position remained inside that inner wall in the dizzy, so I had a machinist friend mill out the outer wall, and I taped and JB welded the top of the 'new wall' to reseal the dizzy. The result is that the dizzy sits with the spark plug sockets pointed up and forward of the car, probably a 30° angle from vertical. The angle really never mattered to me so long as it allowed adjustment, redrilling the key is easy so long as I can find the required angle.
Next, to hold the thing in place. My alignment of the dizzy placed my legs several inches from the mount holes, so I followed Robs89LXi's idea and made brackets which are attached to the back of the mount holes in the block and provide a hole for bolts to pass through the dizzy legs and into the brackets. So far my brackets are protos made from sheet metal, bolts, washers, and nuts; and I haven't made one for the bottom, but I almost don't need it. Once I get the adjustability right, I'll have my friend fab something less flexible then sheet metal. But they work great, and that's the idea.
I think I've worked out the method to determine the appropriate position that the key should be drilled to, so I'm ready to move onto the electrical issues.
My first question involves the coil. This thread is so long now and keeps getting off track and covering many 'sub-topics', but I don't recall seeing anything concerning whether this dizzy will work properly with my original coil. I checked our shop manual against the 94 accord manual (which supports this dizzy), and compared the tests for the external coils. They seem to have vastly different resistance ranges, {primary 0.6-0.8, secondary 14-22k (new); primary 1215-1485, secondary 11074-11526 (old)}. Anyone help me from having to find this one out the hard way?
I know that the wiring harness has been discussed, but I honestly got lost, and I've done a fair amount of wiring before. I think I'll do some more research between the various shop manuals involved and my existing harness. If I don't get any further, I'll let you all know. Also, I have a couple of items that I would be willing to purchase at reasonable prices if any of you happen to have some lying around. I need the connectors off of a 3G distributor, the engine bay connectors from a 4G accord for my new dizzy's connectors to fit into, and the connectors that a P75 ECU should plug into under the seat. I'm not worried about the wire colors, so long as there is enough wire to splice with.
So anyway, the summary of the information in this guide useful to those of you considering this mod is that the mod can be done without making any of the devices useless in their original applications. In case none of you noticed from my mounting method and the electrical connectors I'm looking for, I try to make any modification such that I can always quickly swap back to original. Some may shy away from putting a dizzy with part of it's outer wall cut away and resealed into their car, but it is still perfectly functional in a 4G accord. My original dizzy will sit on a shelf in case I ever have need of it again. My original wiring harness will not be modified in any way that will limit it's original functionality, I'll make short conversion harnesses to attach new equipment.
Last edited by SephirXV; 09-18-2007 at 10:38 AM.
The Wheel of Time turns and Ages come and go, leaving memories that become legend. Legend fades to myth, and even myth is long forgotten when the Age that gave it birth comes again
~Robert Jordan's The Wheel of Time series
Just buy an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness to connect the ecu and repin it. It will only take you an hour or two to do it once you have the pinout laid out on paper or a spread sheet to look at. http://www.boomslang.us/obd0to1.htm
Glad to see someone else tackling the obd1 swap.
I'm trying to work out a complete conversion harness, gathering data from several incomplete or conflicting sources, including this site and PGMFI.org. If those of you in the know would care to look it over and correct any mistakes or add any information they are sure of, I would appreciate it.
The parts in yellow are what are obviously missing or questionable, but the whole thing should be subject to doubt. The harness is supposed to be for any EFI Accord of our generation, to accomodate a TD-59U dizzy (external coil) and a P75 ECU.
Link
The Wheel of Time turns and Ages come and go, leaving memories that become legend. Legend fades to myth, and even myth is long forgotten when the Age that gave it birth comes again
~Robert Jordan's The Wheel of Time series
If I had the time to compare it to my spreadsheet I would, since I know all mine are correct. Since they where all checked after the car was running for a few months and then the spread sheet was created.
Heres the spread sheet.
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...gMH4uXgB3f_vAQ
my car is alive thanks to guaynabo89 and Eric...they are lifesavers.
this swap was preaty easy if you have all the stuff you need. My friend that helped me might do a write up.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
And i had nothing to do with it? ahaha ... damnit!
the man doing the footwork huh?
lol
I spoke to you yesterday right?
i just wish i had gotten ahold of guaynabos OBD-1 swap instead of his header....it would have been cheaper and i wouldnt have to fab up my own distributor... haha
indeed ... suttle info found through-out the post FINALLY clued me in onto the problem. im doing a "writeup" style thing as we speak.
AIM .... go now guynabo guy .. anthonysnewsn
my bad....this guy^^^^^ helped me swap it in...and got it running in less than 8 hours....
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I wish I had my ecu already....arrrrr....i wish I could find a damn p75!
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
so what ECU are you runnin jesse?
edit: disregard that question, i looked in the other thread and saw a stock pr4.
Last edited by 2drSE-i; 10-06-2007 at 10:44 AM.
did you check www.xenocron.com ? they have already chipped ecus for sale, $150
PR4 teggy style yo!
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
so if i may ask why the pr4? or was it just readily available. I guess it doesnt relaly matter since it will be tuned either way.
it was the only stock ecu we had on our hands. it rides fine...just sucks up more gas..and its running a bit rich...since my exhaust started to pop again... and we were not sure what map the ecu i got my justin had...since i bet it was tuned for turbo and 450cc injectors
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Youll love crome man. Your tuner shouldnt have any issues at all. Auto-correct ftw!
actually ... we had an abundance of ECU's at our disposal, just none with a quick J1 disconnect, unlike the PR4 (the two purple wires).. Car will be tuned on CROME soon .. just gotta figure out when he has the time to come back out here.
SHoulda been running within 3 hours ... could have ... EASILY. the wiring was PPERFECT! .. grrr
Last edited by rudeludenotmean; 10-06-2007 at 04:06 PM.
Good to hear its running, I want a copy of that crome map for the A20 once/if its dyno tuned so my ignition values will be closer to what they should be instead of what i'm running now which is the timing values from the P75 with timing pulled in the boost portion of the map.
ah... the timing maps aren't gonna be too far off what you have, and i cant say that its gonna be anything near what it *should* be after the tune.
I was planning on running F22 maps as a base, but we shall see what i end up creating.
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