Thats not a typo they are swapped and greatdane the obd conversion harness will take care of the connectors so you dont have to swap them over. Besides they use different pins so you would have to re-pin the entire harness and swap connectors which will be a pain. I considered doing this because i can get new pins and the special crimpers from work (Acura) but i already have the harness so i probably wont bother.
well so much for the intake idea. Guess sticking to the modified b-series manifold will just have to suffice. As for the dizzy would this work for a carbed motor? it doesn't have an ecu to speak of, I wonder if just pushing out the pins and putting in a obd1 computer then run the appropriate wires to the Dizzy and call it good. any ideas on that or is this an efi only thing?
- Col Jack O'Neal - Stargate sg-1."If you were paying attention DANIEL you'd know the Nintendo's pass threw everything!"
still the biggest prob I have had is getting a chipped ECU for a decent price. I tried chipping my P06 with very little sucess,, and that continues to be the only thing holding me back. I have tried most of the stock ECU's besides any VTEC one and the P75 but nothing has run good period.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Justin, so you have done the conversion using the P-75? What do you mean by it is not running good? Can you explain?Originally Posted by Justin86
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
ok so i have talked to jason the author of turboEDIT (obd0 tuning software), and he recommended for me to use a pm6 (90-91, NOT 88-89) civic/crx SI ecu... we would need an electronic advance dizzy. but since its OBD0 > OBD0, im not sure if we would need a harness or not, but we could still buy a jkobd.com 0 > 0 harness so we dont have to hack up our wiring.
and this softawre does have timing control. might be the easy way out. but we do still have to solve the lame distributor problem.
Last edited by bobafett; 08-13-2005 at 11:45 AM.
I have tried most of the ECU's I could get my hands on and the P-75 is the only non-VTEC one I can't find. Right now I have the 4g accord ECU and it runs pretty rich (12:1 idle/WOT) then way to lean at little throttle angle (above 17:1 highest my gauge reads.)
But still we will most likely need to still chip the ECU and change the maps to suit our engine. I don't think any stock ECU will fully suit the drivablity needs of our cars.
yea you could do that with electronic advance OBD-0 but some of the ECU pins will be different and prob have to add a couple wires for the electornic advance, not sure on the dizy prob not a direct bolt on.
Last edited by Justin86; 08-13-2005 at 04:49 PM.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
According to Darryl (Openloop), the P-75's base map must be close to ours, as he claims to have very good driveability when he made the cange. That is what I have right now, but have yet to get a chance to make the conversion. What is Guaynabo using?
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
damnit. we are so close!!!
i dont even care about drivability with teh stock maps. if your not going to tune it, whats the point... keep running the pj0, at least it knows what to do. we're gonna have to tune these, and thats the reason i awnt to jump up, for the electronic timing control, and the lovely software we can use...
something about 2 step launches, and soft limiters that i just really like!
I think he said he was using the candian P-75 the only major difference is the lack of the electrical load dector, which will cause an irattic idle, but it can be easily dissable with uberdata. Well if Darryl said he had good results with the P-75 then thats what everyone should start with, since I haven't found an alternative. Well lets see if I can find a P-75 for a decent price and get it chipped.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
well this months SCC issue with the h22 swap in the crx made me think about the company that supplied the harness , i nkow its alot of $$ probally for a harness made for the accords we have but it will probally be less of a pain in the a$$ when all said and done
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
jkobd.com is already working on one.
although it's a lot of wires, i dont see why it would be all that big of a pain to switch out the harness by removing the pins from the accord harness and match it up with the p75. This way we dont have to have 2 different harnesses with 87 and 89.
and i agree no one should try to do an ecu and dizzy swap without wanting to tune it closer to the engine. That's the whole idea of swapping something. Yah it would be nice to be able to just bolt on a part and have extra power, but well with honda's lack of compatibility it's going to be hard. Let's just face it we dont have a chevy, we have a honda.
I'd love to be able to shove the c27 from a legend into my car, but i know that it's just not feasable in the 3g... (although i'm looking into it for the 4g cause the 5g has one and the 95 has a c27, but it's auto. )
keep tuning and keep trying without inovations we have to keep paying an arm and a leg to get performance.
- Col Jack O'Neal - Stargate sg-1."If you were paying attention DANIEL you'd know the Nintendo's pass threw everything!"
well Im no good with turboedit or the other pre obd uning functions but with uberdata it seems if you tuned with a wdieband pretty much no matter what ecu you went with as long as its non vtec you can change the fuel, timing curves to match what you want. all you need is a base program to start the engine and tune from there. If I remember right rob had to upgrade to do his hondata setup. From what i gather its a conversion harness(150 bucks), the ecu itself(100bucks), the epromm and emulator for realtime tuning and datalogging(300 bucks), and time on a dyno to tune with someone who knows the program not the engine. Am I wrong here?
yeah and then u need the distributor and have it wired properly. that seems to be the main problem at this point.
i'm still looking to do this with a grassroots junkyard approach.
Talk about it,I know honda isnt cheap,I have to replace a 300 dollar distributor(with labor costs 353 dollars)just because the module went out,and the reman-d distrubtor doesnt come with a module,and taking the old one apart is impossible without it falling apart and needing new little parts like pins and things.I dont know what to do with my car anymore,and if I should fix it.This is the 6th time I have asked you guys about a problem,lol.
Thanks Carot.2 shielded wires going directly to the ECU...The colors are Blue-Yellow and Blue-Green.
You can use the cold advance solenoid wire as the igniter wire, that way you don't need to add a wire for it. Since you'll be using an electronic advance distributor, you will not need the cold advance solenoid anymore.
I will post a wiring how-to tomorrow about this
I didn't realize the Crank Angle/Position Sensor was inside the distributor.
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- llia
was'nt our TDC sensor located inside our distributor also? i thought the Crank angle was actualy our TDC sensor.
well i will let you guys know what it takes to fit a 4g dizzy to a carbed accord head. hopefully the bolt placement on efi head would be the same, so that the placement on carbed head will also apply to efi head, but i have not compared the two side by side, so i dont know for sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=8000837308
This is the only difference.
EFI (in my hand)
CARB (on head)
Note that the EFI Distributor is heavier then the CARB distributor, I assume that is the reason for the extra support. So it may be a good idea to use an EFI Bearing on the Carb Head if the 4G distributor is just as heavy.
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Last edited by A20A1; 09-26-2005 at 10:01 AM.
- llia
awesome. thanks for that pic.
although the image makes it hard to tell, im assuming the other 2 holes line up properly. ;-)
edit. actually i could just take that peice off, and use the EFI one if i wanted to, lol... :-)
Yeah I edited my post above... I think the EFI one would be better.
- llia
of course since i am getting a custom bracket made to hold it in place, i might just have it utilize the bolts on top that you can see that go vertical. that way either EFI or carbed people could take advantage of the template. i just hope that it doesnt involve much modification to the head or the thermostat housing.
Mike do u know if there are any options to do something different with the thermostat housing... i thought the thermostat was in a different spot on carbed cars, any advice, or am i just going to be stuck with it?
yeah i would appreciate that. all i have is my EFI head which is on my car.
the carbed head, which i am using on the build (and which will be recieving the distributor) is at the machine shop, and i cant get to it freely. :-(
What I'm thinking about doing is making a bracket to mate the 4G dizzy to my EFI head. It will be a 3/4" wide arc of aluminum that would have three holes in it, corresponding to the three mounting holes on the EFI head/block. Once this is bolted in place, three more oval shaped holes could now be drilled into it to correspond to the 4G dizzy, so as to allow it to be bolted to the bracket. The problem is that the thickness of the bracket would put the dizzy out too much, so the head/block mounting points would have to be ground down/notched enough to compensate for this. The dizzy shaft would also have to be reindexed to match the correct firing positions, of course.
"Feed their greed with your need for speed"
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