a new axle here will cost me say 300 $ and a new boot 15 $ ( after converting currency ) !
MIKE
a new axle here will cost me say 300 $ and a new boot 15 $ ( after converting currency ) !
MIKE
3geez member since October 4th 2001
$300 bucks....eep.... that'll hurt the wallet. It is 120 bucks here thankfully....ok well i guess in your case a new boot is the way to go if the joint is good, i am just leary about repacking them, when i worked at Speedy Auto Service i found the ones i repack more often than not came back within a month for noise problems....
so, sorry for the revival. but how long of a job is it to get to the boots and change them? and anyone have any detailed pix of the process?
Lol. OOOOOOLLLLLLLDDDDD thread haha.
You what? I just did that job YESTERDAY on my second Accord. That's right! I replaced both boots. If only you came here yesterday, I would have taken pictures.
I don't remember percisely how much time it took to rebuild the axle but I guess the whole process might have taken like 3 hours.
I used a 5 gallons tub half filles with varsol to clean the joint. Everything came super clean. I reinstalled the boots and packed them with grease.
When you remove the boots, inspect the joints and the metal balls, if you see any kinf of wear, you should consider just replacing the whole axle.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
I have replaced boots in another car before and it took me about 4-5 hours because I was working in my driveway. It was a messy job but I managed to get it done. This was my first and last CV boot replacement job.
Lately, I have used those axels from Advanced auto and have somebody put them in for me. I have mixed experience. The axels we replaced on an older maxima went perfectly fine and have no problems. Then we had the passenger side axel (reman axel from advanced) changed on an older caravan, it shaked like crazy (left/right vibration) at 35mph. We had to get another one from advanced so the quality of those reman is a problem. We filed a claim to Advance auto for labor since this was due to a bad part and were told this is a matter of luck if we will get the money back.
So, I think if you have time and the joint is still good, go for the boot replacement. For the whole axel replacement, I may go for NAPA next time since they provide quality parts.
My CVs in the 3rd gen accord are still hold up well so hopefully I don't need to get into this hassle again soon.
oh, quick, change 'em again. i wanna see.Originally Posted by carotman
Lol. OOOOOOLLLLLLLDDDDD thread haha.
You what? I just did that job YESTERDAY on my second Accord. That's right! I replaced both boots. If only you came here yesterday, I would have taken pictures.
I don't remember percisely how much time it took to rebuild the axle but I guess the whole process might have taken like 3 hours.
I used a 5 gallons tub half filles with varsol to clean the joint. Everything came super clean. I reinstalled the boots and packed them with grease.
When you remove the boots, inspect the joints and the metal balls, if you see any kinf of wear, you should consider just replacing the whole axle.
From Carotman:
...I just did that job YESTERDAY on my second Accord. That's right! I replaced both boots.
Reviving an ollllld thread again...
I need to replace the passenger side outer boot on my 87 DX. Is the outer CV joint held on by a c-clip or just press fit? I guess if it's just a press fit, then you need to remove the axle so you can 'gently' tap the CV joint off with a brass drift? Any details will be appreciated. Thanks!
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yeah it has a clip in the splines inside of the joint itself, so if you hammer the metal on the joint closest to the shaft/splines then itll pop off. IF you have a driveshaft that is the same size in the middle (thickness) on both ends i would reccomend popping off the inner joint boot and taking apart the inner joint, removing the snap ring that holds the tripod on the end of the axle shaft, pull off the inner boot and cut the outer boot off and slide the new outer boot on from the inner boot side and then reassemble the inner joint when you get the axle in the car. Somtimes you can do this with the outer joint still in the car, just you can take off the wheel with the car jacked up and remove the lower bj and pull the inside joint apart without removing the axle from the car entirely. Depends what you want to do
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Thanks for the details. Why would you recommend replacing the outer boot from the inner end (assuming the DS is the same thickness)? Maybe to get around having to remove the spindle nut? Otherwise it seems basically the same procedure. If I'm right about get around removing the spindle nut, I guess I'll first try to remove it and if that doesn't work, then go from the inside. Thanks again for the details!
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Drivers side is thicker, it won't be as easy going that route. I welded an axle nut to a slide hammer and that pulls the outers right off. A block of wood and hammer also works, but it's a bitch and sometimes requires removal of the axle and/or lower fork bolt. Keep in mind that if the axle came unsnapped inward during installation and wasn't put back into position, the end will be rounded from riding against the CV housing. If this has happened, you won't be able to get it with anything you have at home.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
I need to do the outer passenger side. I don't have a clear picture of how the axles/joints go together so how does the axle nut welded to the slide hammer pull the outer joint off? Not having to remove the inner joint would also mean not having to screw with the dampner on the axle too. Sounds like the best way to do it, but I just want to understand why.Thanks!
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Screw the nut and slide hammer onto the outer joint. With one hand, hold the axle in so the inner joint doesn't come out or tear the inner boot. Use the other to operate the slide hammer. The outer joint and tripod are held in place with a snap ring, just like the end that installs into the transmission. Once you unseat the snap ring from the outer groove it will come off easily. I could take some pictures of the axle pieces and slide hammer if necessary.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
I got ya now! Dumbshit me didn't have my head screwed on right before, but I totally understand now. I will give it a shot (next week at the earliest) and report back. Thanks a bunch!
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In a bit of a bind now...
I got the outer CV joint off using the slide hammer. On the 3rd whack it came off. Now the problem is getting the CV joint back on. I put the new ring on the axle and trying to get the CV joint on, but it ain't going. Should the clip be inside the CV joint or the axle? Any other tricks to get the (%$$&($ back on there? Thanks!
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I got the outer joint back together, but I had to remove the axle and put it in a vice to smash in the clip with screwdrivers.
Seems like the easiest way is to leave the old spindle nut on the outer joint and clamp it in the vice. Now you have the weight of the axle pressing against the clip and you can see the clip easier so you can use screwdrivers to press the clip in while keeping downward pressure against the clip. It helps a bunch to have an extra set of hands...
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i just use black electrical tape stretched tight around the clip on the splines, then just tap it in and itll peel off when it goes into the joint but itll keep the clip together enough to install it
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Damn, that electrical tape trick is genius.
I wish I had known it at 3am when I was on my third attempt at "quietly" tapping the outer joint with a hammer...
Third time was the charm though.
Yeah I'll damn sure remember the electrical tape if I ever have to deal with something like this again. Thanks!
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Ok so when you are putting the outer joint back on an axle, the snap clip keeps sliding up so the joint does not lock in.
So you can put black tape (how many layers? ) around the clip on the spines and the outer joint will snap in correctly and you fish out the tape with needlenose??
.... hmmm so what happens if you use no clip and just put the boot on to hold it together long enough to get it in..
the outer joint does come off and it's not that hard.just pull back the boot and lay on a block of wood.lay the joint towards the floor and wack it on the shoulder of the joint.a couple of wacks should do it,there is a clip on yhe end of the axle you should replace.slide old boot off and new boot on.pack with grease after you tap the joint back on.did mine last fall and it wasn't that hard.honda service told me how to do it.
I don't think it goes as well at that all the time, I wish though
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