you can generally get a bigger GT than you would a standard. they spool that much faster. big chunk of change though...
you can generally get a bigger GT than you would a standard. they spool that much faster. big chunk of change though...
Last edited by night; 10-16-2004 at 02:04 PM.
wow thats a lot of info to think about. Ok lets start with the intake and work from there. ill probably use the b16 or b18 aftermarket for intake after converting to obd1. The cams will be whatever needed to get the output desired. As for exact numbers Im not sure just yet. Ill want a very streetable machine. Itll see upwards of 5k maybe more possible as far as 7 if I can balance the engine out that far and not see alot of block issues. Proabably closer to the 5k-6k range and thats why I would prefer a turbo to spool so low. Im keeping the stock CR so thats 9.5:1 I think many 9.4:1.
power output HMMM well everyone want as much as possible so lets say with a stock jdm b20a 5 speed with the b16 LSD from gude yokohama spec2 rubbers on 16 inch rims. Im losing performance with the 16's over 15's the yokos cant handle a great amount of power so lets say as much as I can safley transfer to the ground. Ill be using a 2 stage boost controller. Id be estatic to see 350 rwhp. Id be happy to see 300. Id be dissapointed to see anything less than 250. That being said a turbo small in design capable of 400 hp. Oh and lets go with a low end monster because everyone knows we dont have the little stroke of the b16 so Im going to be revving the hell out it every time
Im sorry I dont know enough about turbos to know which flange is which. i have it sitting here in front of me. Is there any info i can give you that will help me tell you? Its rectangular shaped3 of the bolts are in a square pattern the 4th closest to the turbine is slightly offset to the outside of the others the inlet measure roughly 55 mm x 44mm and is shaped like an rectangle with rounded corners.
thanks alot guys Mike
I doubt youll see 280hp with a .42/.48... maybe if you had a .60/.48 or a .60/.63 (like me) but for the ultimate in spoolup and responsiveness youll want to get somthing like the Garrett GT28RS (disco potato) they are very espensive ( $1k-$2k or so new) its a funky T25 based turbo with very small spoolup time and nice hp capability... very very little lag either. A T3/T4 hybrid will be a tad on the laggy side but will easily support 350-400hp, if a nice compromise and low cost is what youre looking for id say get somthing like a T3 .60/.48 or super 60 compressor (a lil bigger than the regular.60 wheel but only found on turbonetics turbos i think)... youd be getting to 300hp on the T3 .60 and 350hp on the turbonetics super 60...
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
well Ill let you in on a sectret of mine. Ive learned from past experiences that worth is what you decide to make it and you get what you pay for. That being said id i can get what i want the first time out for say 20% greater cost than antispated than no problem. its only money. it comes and it goes. Im more concerned with meating expectations than savings 50 bucks here or there.
So what do the ratios mean anyway in layman terms please. is the t28 a t3 compressor and why did you call it a disco potato? So is the higher ratios nummbers better in all cases?
If I was to get this sort of turbo would aftermarket rods and pistons hold up to the abuse on 9.5:1 CR I dont want to lose lowend drivability.
well it seems as thought the disco potatoo gt28rs has a power limit of 350 hp and thts cool. The upgrades from there seem to be you get more power at higher revs then Im planning on going. so Its looking like thats the style Im looking for maybe. Plus there selling then in the 650+ range new. Only thing, dont i want one that external wastegated rather than internal?
yes it does, you are correct, but itll spool ALOT FASTER due to its lower rotating mass and ball bearing cartridge and give you boost probably practically off idle. It seems to be that the bigger compressor you have (within reason) the better top end pull youll have, so id bet that if you had a t3/t4 you might have better top end power than the GT28RS at the expense of moderate lag and spoolup rpm increasing from say... 2500 rpm to 3500+... it depends on your preferences... there is no major problem with using an internal wastegate even at those power levels, its more compact and cheaper too. I guess it depends on how much power you want to support???
BTW the numbers represent the size of the compressor and exhaust turbine wheel...
Last edited by AccordEpicenter; 10-16-2004 at 03:33 PM.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
well if it comes with internal wastegate and itll work fine than I wont have a use for the tila 35mm I have now. this will help in absorbing the cost of the new turbo unit. Again to the first question. Will this turbo fit in the space provided and bolt up the same. if they are both T3 housings made by garrett than they shuld correct? Also Im reading the post the night left and have a question about my turbo manifold. they have there wastegate ports installed on the manifold itself. On my setup the wastegate is an external and its below the turbo. Is this OK?
it looks like my flange is the t25/gt25 flange. is this ok touse the gt28rs?
stock T25. In fact, from the outside, the two turbos look nearly identical. The oil feed and both water fittings for the water-cooled centre housings are identical to the stock turbo.
It was developed by Garrett in the US for a project car called the Disco Potato with an SR20 powerplant.The car's power was impressive, 280 hp at the wheels, but not earth-shattering. The driving experience however, was. Throttle response was excellent, turbo lag virtually non-existent, and the tyre-smoking horsepower was outstanding. The turbo spooled up early, making so much torque, that the best quarter-mile time (13.7 at 104.5 mph) was achieved launching in second gear. The vehicle was so successful that Garrett the turbo as the GT28RS
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 10-16-2004 at 04:52 PM.
Well, the GT28RS has a T25 flange:
ATP Turbo
tes I noticed that. i came across this looking for a size comparison. the one on the left is the gt28rs and the other is a t25. I know need to find a pic comparison between the ta34 and the t25. sorry cant post pics so heres a link http://www.windsorworld.net/ww/Image...mparison-1.jpg
is there a spot on the turbo where it lists what model it is. Im not sure if it is the TA34. Its not a very popular model from what i can gather so why would tom put one in his kit?
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pro...3&cat=1&page=1
http://www.agpturbo.com/customer/pro...ctid=15&cat=20
http://www.turbofast.com.au/balmid.html
I think these are mt current turbo. if the a/r are so low on mine why are they calling it a T04e turbo? man I wish i knew 100% for sure
thats pretty much all i can find on it. so if my turbo is rated for say 250 max power than bolting it onto a 160 hp engine and gaining 90 hp with a cost of over 6k currently, wow what a disapointment. Definately not the turbo I want. Although at what point is it unsafe to run pump gas on a car producing around 300 with a turbo and 9.4:1 cr
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 10-17-2004 at 06:05 AM.
There is almost never good markings on the turbo telling us what it is. One has to know what turbine- and compressor wheels are used, that is really important. The housings usually has staped in them what A/R they are.
Speaking of A/R: It is not the same from familiy to family. A .48 A/R T4 turbine housing is closer (guessing) to a 1.06 A/R T3 housing in terms of max exhaust flow supported.
the housings are stamped with the a/r numbers yes they are stated above. the turbine from my niotes say its a T3 turbine soory im not listing the compressor
if there is any other measurments that may help in identifying the turbo please ask. Would it help to give you a rough size of the compressor or turbine housing, maybe the inlet diameter
next question, who knows the equation to figure starting CR to run wityh say 18-20psi?
I dont reallt want to run racegas all the time. Id be willing to drop the Cr down to say 9.0:1 any thoughts
run stock compression and just pull out more timing... 9.3:1
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
dont you think Id run into detonation problems or too high compression by the time i start throwing say 20psi in there
The effective compression ratio of a forced induction engine is (( boost psi / 14.7 ) + 1) * motor compression
figure that out? whats the asterik for? subtract maybe? If so then at 20 psi Id need to run a 8:1 CR man talk about no bottom end off the line grunt
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 10-18-2004 at 06:14 PM.
with proper managemant and tuning (i doubt you could make it live on anything less than 93 oct) you should be able to hit 20psi on stock compression (youll need forged pistons) but youll have to run less timing than you would at 8:1 compression and more fuel
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
dont you mean more timing. You need to retard with the more boost. Ok I get it you mean less as in a negative number. ok so the next question would be which emu? Hondata or zdyne, or whatever rob chose i think its ams or aem or something like that. I want boost refenced timing, dual stage boost control, the whole nine as far as programming with obd0-obd1. Ill be running the msd 6al, walbro fuel pump and all. Should i go for the 550 cc injectors or would a set of 450 work?
right you need to retard the timing... well im running 450s... i guess it depends on how much power you want to support?
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
ok so im not going to get the turbo motor rebiult this year obviously. So should i just install the b20a and the turbo as it sits and run it till I can afford to rebiuld or it blows up then go on with the plans. With the current setup Ill be running the S-AFC hack and about 9 psi in guessing from a .42/.48 50trim turbo.
The later plans are to install a gt28rs probably with a diufferent manifold or whatever depending on if I like the performance with the smaller turbo or not.
What do you guys think if oyuve kept up on my previous threads you know whats going on. Itll be the hks evc 4, apexi s-afc, teg dizzy, tial 35mm wastegate, hks bov, and all that jazz. Nothing too fancy just to see what itll do and go from there.
My major focus this year is the wifeys project carbed b20a so Im spending alot on that instead of the turbo motor.
My b20a looks great and Im sure is a 40k or less engine from B20aturbo. The turbo kit is a modified stage 2 from ludespeed originally purchased by mikelee. Let me know. Its killing me having all these parts and just staring at them
Like yoda says: Do, or do not. There is no try.
What would happen if the B20A throws a rod through the block.... you would have to find another block.
With rob buying almost every B20A around, they will soon be rare
Nah, seriously, if you throw a rod through the block, you would have the hassle to find another one...
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Im mixed on this topic since im on my 3rd block and only about 40 miles on the turbo. Tuning is the key to running the turbo but keep in mind all the hastles you have to expect with a custom turbo kit. If you can get another block easily fine then experiment now before it gets expensive but seeing that they are hard to find i would not chance throwing a rod.
Its very easy to damage stuff on a turbo engine so make sure you know what you getting into and if you have a spare car and dont mind the down time i would play around with it before you get yourself into deep like me. You have basically all you need laying around so hopefully shit goes better than mine and fortunatly Josh in NY had another headgasket. I have to order a spare soon since i sold you all my extra stuff when i ran a copper hg that didnt work out.
Good Luck and feel free to ask me stuff im hoping to have a 3rd attempt in the next few weeks depending on how long the machine shop takes. He said this friday but 3 weeks turned into 3 months last time so time will tell.
HMM thats true I was banking on more the bad gasket or something like a popped piston more than the block. Maybe its not worth the risk. Did you ever figure out what C/R you gained from the ITR pistons?
For the wifeys car racingeng has there b20a5 10.5:1 pistons on sale for 300. By the time I buy and ship the ITR pistons and machine the piston pin mount Id probably be in the 300 range anyway. Maybe Ill just go with the aftermarkets? Of course if I had the ITR pistons I could have them move the piston higher in the bore to make a little more C/R also. Awww too risky Id hate to smack the valves. Oh and the second paragrapg is not the turbo car.
Raceeng is good iv bought 2 sets of pistons from them. The 9:1 compression ones are made by Wiseco so the 10.5:1 may be as well. But they have come through for me and can do custom pistons if need be you can call them at 1-561-533-5500 I dealt with Rob.
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