Wow, sorry man. This is really hard on you I'm sure. It's sad to see a 3gee go down like that, it really is. Good to hear your not too seriously injured though. But I would follow what the fellas say and see a doctor in any event.
Wow, sorry man. This is really hard on you I'm sure. It's sad to see a 3gee go down like that, it really is. Good to hear your not too seriously injured though. But I would follow what the fellas say and see a doctor in any event.
That's got to be the cleanest living DX I've ever seen.
-Strugglebucket
Wow, that's absolutely amazing-that car does not look like it's 20 years old!
-redaztec
DAYUM!
-2ndGenGuy
...it looks like it came out straight from japan.
-MessyHonda
it happened on HWY 99 around 202th street wednesday. I was pulling out of work biulding a new lexus dealership and misjudged distance i guess. She pulled onto hwy 99 the same time i entered so the cops say she moved 150ft in the time it took me t cross 1 lane of road. She was moving if you ask me. I just put the interior in, the only left was the engine and trans and the car was DONE.
Sad to hear about it mike. also glad that you accept your fault. also sad to hear that you dont wanna see a doctor. I hope u do before u start caughing up ur own ribs.
Always had a hatred for guys who get on the yield sign, I know its not a stop sign and u dont have to slow down completely, but at the same time, its not a sign that means 'race the car of freeway to get ahead of him' either. I tend to slow down a lot coming up on a freeway and for me, its just like a stop sign. I practically stop and blur out the damn honk in the rear if there is any. Worse comes to worse, the dude behind me got aggravated, but i still got my car and my body and life in one piece, his aggravation will cause him something, not me.
Next time, please be careful, everytime we take the cars out of our driveway we run the risk of getting hurt and worse, hurting others. Hope to see you working good, soon man.
dude that really sux hey if u decide to part it out i ned a cpuple things off ur ,motor ok i got first dibs
rhd restoration 2nd gen prelude
well Im doubting ill part it out but ive got a few other projects in th works that would be nice to get going again. Anyone remembe r the thunderchicken. How about the b18c5 1st gen civic. you never know whats going on in my garage
So as most know ive been working on a turbo project simliar to robs but not quite as drag associated. Im an autocrosser so I I chose to go with a t3 42/48 pumping around 9-12 psi is what I gather. Well Id like a fmic and since they say the smaller the better for boost lag I was thinking id go with just a small 6x28 or so. My turbo isnt huge so i dont want to have to pressurize a big plenum before getting boost.
Well the downfall of this is of course heat saturation of the cores themselves which is probably worse then the large plenum problem. I was thinking about it and decided to look into a CO2 rail that sprays the front of the FMIC so that would cool it down signifgantly and still have my small plenum. Obviously this wont be for everyday use but if I need a good burst it would be there.
Im also going with a decent shot of nitro on WOT. My engine is going to be biult using only the best such as rob has done (hopefully without the hassles, sorry rob) so Im not worried about the internals. Im going to use obd-1 with uberdata so tuning will be good and Im not doing it which is even better. Ill be running the 9.5:1 pistons same as rob if they ever go back on sale again but Im not sure about the pauter rods. Id like something a little lighter that doesnt require the block clearences his did.
Anyway if anyone has any thoughts let me know. The FMIC Im looking at isnt too small for my turbo just not large enough for optimal usage. Mike
i wouldnt worry too much about making you lag, a larger intercooler has less of a pressure loss thru it so you wont notice it lag more than if you had a little intercooler. Also, cryo cooling works good but the gas tends to get sucked up in your air intake, killing power if its co2. If your auto crossing id say a better choice is just spraying a water mist over a good sized intercooler to get rapid reduction in temps, cheaper easier than using cryo cooling. 6x28 intercooler is a pretty good size, im running somthing close to that, one side is hot, the other is not. If youre gonna spray, I hope you have forged pistons going in too? Id highly reccomend you tune with a wideband a/f gauge but the key to making all of this work good, is all in the tune
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
9.5:! with 12 psi?? hmmmm you better have a damn good engine management, and shit load of ignition retartd. if any, i would have asked u to go with the dsm engine specs, like 8.8:1 compression and just run a 14b or 16g turbo and just run more boost.............
as far as the intercooler spray, CO2 is not needed, u will be pretty good with waterspray like the evo and sti. them nozzles are easier to maintain and also throw the container and pump in the trunk of the car like those cars.
if you are using Nitrous. u need to program it for 25 to 30 shot and no more to be safe and have it for corner exits where turbo lag is prominent cause upuntil the apex, ur breaking which causes the turbo to slow down and during a corner exit, u punch the gas from 60deg to WOT and thats when the lag is prominent cause the turbo has already slowed down is trying to spin faster and nitrous in this time will help it a bunch. you dont have to go with the 4 nozzle wet kit, just a regular single nozzle like Jim (hostilejava) would be good enough.
ps: i would defenitely lower the compression if i was you. even the 14psi sti uses 8.2:1 cr and the 18psi evo uses 8.8:1 like mentioned above.
Nahh 9.5:1 is boost friendly, there are guys around turboing honda S2Ks that have 11:1 compression. Especially for what you want to do, auto x, that compression is just fine. Your gonna need a good tuner and when spraying, id run better fuel, 91 or 93 octane is kind of low oct for boost and spray. It would be beneficial to get into a multi port wet nitrous setup at this point because the amount of nitrous is evenly divided into each runner, which is not nessescerily the case with a single jet kit, but is not a must. Either way id still run a wet kit.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
hmm i have seen S2000s with comptech superchargers with low comp pistons. like 9.0:1. The friend of mine with his stock 4g63 block detonated under 18psi and it was a 1995cc motor with 8.8:1 cr pistons. but for a 12psi and a 9.5 cr, i would cross my fingers on that.
running standalones would help u a lot because they will automatically retart the ignition timing when feeding nitrous and they have a built in two stage nitrous control to program a staggered nitrous injection.
werent you gonna change to OBD-1? i thought u were gonna.
you could try to double the use of the CO2... run thin tubes before the turbo some where in the intake pipe so that air is pulled past them and cooled... then continue the tubes to the jets that will release the spray at the intercooler.
- llia
I read somewhere that they were working on an uberdata hack that used a boost reference for nitro kits and such. Im going to go with a wideband O2 and it will be done when swapping the engine in.
Im definately going with a wet kit as its easier when you understand and better in my opinions. But with the water injection this is the mist on the face of the intercooler. is it effective when not at speeds? I mean say 25 mph rather than 50+.
Im ok with the 9.5 cr with 12 psi. Like epicenter said as long as its tuned Im good. As far as the nitro goes im going to set it up with 25 hp and work my way up from there till i feel I cant handle it or it appears nothing is gained on the dyno. No more than 100 hp. Ive got some major proven drag racers in my corner so tuning is no problem. if you log onto horepowerheaven look at the 57 chevy running 7.70s the 69 camero running 11.80s and the 70 nova in the mid 9s I believe. these are my buddies. Oh and this will be a 92 octane engine only no higher or lower
Anyway thanks for the help and keep the thoughts comming
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 05-07-2005 at 07:23 PM.
youre gonna be pulling out alot of timing to do this on 92 octane but it can be done. A bigger fuel pump and colder plugs (2 steps colder) are going to be a must have for this setup
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
What about spraying through the turbo to spool it up? Ive heard guys do this and its pretty successful, I dont know much about it myself but nitrous through the turbo under pressure spools it up quick.
Nitrous thru the turbo? that's pretty dangerous...
A shot of nitrous would do better injected into the runners anyways... it would expand and add some cooling to the intake charge.
As for the nitrous for spooling the impeller wont work you'd have to pump out a lot of gas to spool the turbo... too much IMO so you're just asking for it to blow.
- llia
i thought you couldn't use nitrous in the SCCA... i was told i couldn't even bring an empty bottle to the track...
There is always the air-water route. More complicated, but you get shorter pipes and a smaller intercooler. If you're going to be auto-xing and street driving it should be fine since you wont be running under extened periods of boost. You can always put ice in the water reservior to get a really cold charge for racing as well.
andy
yeah, air to water is a good idea...
Ive got that setup already but im running into a lack of space for the pump,reservior and all the other junk. I was planning on putting by the battery so theres room since the battery wont be there but then theres the piping issues. Ive got a 255 lph walbro pump that came with the turbo kit. Plenty of fuel there. Looks like ill go with the water misters in front of the intercooler and see what hapens. id hate to do premature damage to teh car with all the extra water. HMT has a similar topic going and there saying 300 hp is rated fro 4 GPH. thats either one heck of a reserve or alot of pit stops on refilling. Not saying itll run all the time but it sounds like its going to be a one shot deal before refill.
water to air intercooler is something i would not do. Its for cars that have limited space in the engine bay and also a good thing to learn from Jhonny. When he had air to air, he was running10s and 11s, but now with the water to air, getting into the 12s is a big deal for him. So dont bother with water to air.
premature engine damage by water spraying on ur intercooler??
the guys you heard from are just full of shit. the pressure from that nozzle is not gonna spin the turbo. unless you misunderstood their lingoOriginally Posted by FyreDaug
Air to air is best suited, but if space is limited a water to air is the second best. A limited design (limited meaning it is limited in the amount of reactant providing cooling) would be best suited for drag racing (freezing intercoolers, ice water, etc). I keep sitting here thinking about all the times I autoXed and am trying to figure out why you think your going to need this extra quick burst of power a CO2 cooled turbo system (or any turbo/nos system) is going to provide??? 99% of the time AutoXing doesn't work like that, the power will NOT net better times. I actually ran better times once when my turbo failed on the track!!!
A 3g accord can be VERY successful auto Xing with some very very sticky tires, good coil overs, and most important of all a VERY good driver.
I think he's talking about those systems they use on rally cars to keep the turbo spooled. They dump fuel into the turbine housing to keep it spooled with the cars shift or something. I don't know exactly how it works. I do know that its very hard on the turbo and exhaust components. The big budget rally guys don't care, but you probalby don't want to be replacing turbos and down pipes all the time in your car.
Johnny lost time with an air water setup? In drag racing he should be able to actualy gain time with it (well atleast a denser charge). His run's arn't nearly long enough to heat soak the water and water is a much more efficient coolant then air. (its just that you have a limited supply of cold water that puts a damper on the air water setup). I'd like to see what he's running. I've got my car going again finally so I should make it up to some of the races this year.
andy
Antilag system usually called the MISfiring system does not dump fuel into the manifold. Its just retards the ignition timing to 40degs and this causes literally no combustion in the camber but intense heat of the manifold causes those unburnt fuel mixture to ignite within the exhaust/turbo manifold (hence the poping sound on a turn or when they let go of the gas) to keep the turbo spooled up.
yeah andy, from the last time i saw him and had my friend there at englishtown couple of weeks back and he saw jhonny there and he said he ran like 12s or something. So he is pretty much loosing time with that set up or something is going wrong with his car as a whole. his setup is real bulky and buncha people including Vinny (i guess) saw his car at his house when they were at a meet or soemthing.
That was the one with the B&M coolers right?... maybe the pipe diameter is too small??
They work great for oil but I dunno about water. Maybe it is beign pumped thru the cooler too fast and isn't getting enough time to cool.
- llia
well the setup itself isnt for auto crossing. Im biulding the engine with turbo for auto crossing. A 2 litler engine with a lot of low end torque for a turbo. Im going with a smaller turbo for faster spool and consistency around the track. Im faster in 78 civic than most drivers in there new cars. I keep telling people its not about speed it about keeping motion constant aound corners.
The nitro and the co2 was more of a street prep or minro drag setup. I figure ill pretty quick but not neccassarily fast so the nitro shot will make up for that and I wanted the co2 for a little road racing Im known for with all my friends. Just a few add ons for other uses not really auto crossing. I miss my accord. I was ready for the season and everything. That thing rode on rails.
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