id ditch the co2 idea, you can spray if you want i guess, but i think a water spray over the ic will be more cost effective
id ditch the co2 idea, you can spray if you want i guess, but i think a water spray over the ic will be more cost effective
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Im leaning that way. its sounding like a better idea but i wonder at which speeds its effective? How fast do you have to be going for it to work properly?
well u will be using distilled water which has a higher latent heat of vaporization than regular water. and the reason u wont and cant use regular water cause it has impurities such as calcium and sedimentary salts that will fuck up ur IC's aluminum. Anyway, the temperature has to be around and upwards of 70deg for the water to evaporate and going about 40mph u can feel that its pretty effective. Since urs is a front mount rather than the sti's top mount, and their waterspray is said to work around 45mph (the best) and upwards. U should have no problem at low speeds. And also know that, the colder the water, the more effective it is and the purer the water (distilled water) the better it is in cooling. You will notice a big different at a 80deg weather and thats when knock will be more prominent, esp at an autocross where the engine will be under stress constantly and driven in the higher rpms all the time. A knock sensor is a much and i hope u have one and have the radiator fans run constantly on the track, by just putting a switch on the thermo sensor harness and plug it back in for the road.Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe
also the bottle or container for the IC water spray, needs to be protected from the radiant heat that will be produced in the trunk. So shield it in a way that it stays cool.
What about doing this. This is what I thought about. The engine would be turbocharged and NO2 would be injected into the intake manifold. But the amount injected would depend on the engine speed. So when the engine is running at low speeds and is not able to make much torque more NO2 will be injected than at very high speeds when the engine is able to make the most torque. Then I also thought about mounting spray bars in front of an intercooler and spraying NO2 onto it to chill the air after the turbocharger, and also using a water cooled turbocharger. I thought about running a hose from the turbocharger to a tank and a small pump. Then running another line to a small radiator. That radiator could also be cooled with NO2 or just air.
Chadroper, u think too much lol.
Water cooling is for the heat transfer from the hot bearings which are cooled by the oil and also lubed by them. A lof ot people dont do water cooling (even tho the turbo is ready for one) when they switch to aftermarket turbos.
The stuff ur talking about spraying nitrous and what not on the intercooler is expensive. I dont know if u realize how much u will be wasting. The NO2 spray is left alone unless u have a sponsor who dont mind u spraying that on the IC rather than inside the motor. You seem to haeve a STI, u should know how the performance aspect of it with the water spray. I bet u dont notice much of a difference till the temperature gets hot as hell.
With the proper ecu tuning, the power curve is altered at low engine speeds via the tps angle and also the ignition set up which will advance ur timing at low engine speeds, retard it under normal speeds and advance it (believe it or not) for WOT which is high engine speeds. the ECU will know how to change these parameters to meet your goal when u set up the maps for different application. so u can do it with a piggyback on a OBD-1 conversion or a standalone like Rob-T on the stock motor with custom wiring.
on a turbo motor, u only make power, if ur turbo is spooling and spraying the nitrous has to be for the specific turbo and its operating charecteristics. Like a small turbo will not have much of a lag since its small enough to spool fast, and spool up always depends on the exhaust side as you all know, so bigger the compressor and smaller the exhaust side, the better it is for you to cope with lag, but also u will be hitting the limit fast cause the turbo will be spooled up too soon.
So for his set up, he needs to put it up on the dyno, and tune the nitrous to be sprayed electronically controlled either by a different ecu or the standalone or the piggyback with an option of controlling the nitrous injection.
Here is a better way. You could take a normal air-air intercooler and inclose it inside a box. Then spray bars would be mounted between the intercooler and the walls of the box. Some small holes would be drilled into the box. This would let only a small amount of CO2 leak out and it would cool the intercooler better. It would be immersed in the CO2
yeah but that doesnt help you unless your using co2... just get a regular fmic and water spray
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
chadroper, the method u are describing is very expensive bro. and its not practical if u balance the cost to benefit scale....... ur scale is bottoming out on the cost.
For drag races, a kid I knew with a SOHC civic had the input and output pipes of the intercooler toward the top of it. The entire intercooler (not big) was immersed in a closed (mostly sealed) box of ice water (drag racing). Water has a very high specific heat, and needs to absorb a lot of heat energy before evaporating or even raising a single degree. He used to put in ice water, and at full 12lb boost, his intake charge at the TB was 80 deg F (huge diff. between the 120deg that he was getting on a dyno w/o the water)... spraying water on it, simply, will be slightly effective, but not hugely. Note that on a long open track, where the pavement is 140+ degrees, the air hanging just above the pavement where your car will be driving is VERY hot, and that spray of water CAN be a big deal. No, it won't slow you down unless for some reason the water you're spraying is sprayed directly on your air intake filter, in which case it would have to be a very poor filter and take in 100% of that water to even counteract the effects of spraying the intercooler.
Completely impossibly unlikely. It helps with the evo's and sti's a small amount. Not hugely, but a bit. Get a window washer sprayer from a car at a junkyard (both sides) and attach the nozzles to spray at your intercooler. Kits are expensive. And this method can work pretty well.
As long as your charge is cool, your octane is high, and your ignition is retarded, you can be just fine with such compression running whatever boost you want. A more highly compressed charge can be more apt to combust very quickly upon sparking than a less compressed charge. The difference between 8.8:1 and 9.5:1 is trivial at most. 8:1 and 10:1 is a break. I wouldn't worry about compression. Once you hit 11:1, and onward as such, you (with a hot charge) more risk spontaneous combustion, and big trouble. You're okay. Any intercooler at all is a big step over some old un-intercooled setups that ran into big problems with significant boost.
Take it light, keep the boost mild, and RETARD RETARD RETARD. Retarding ignition timing is the thing you have most control over with obd1. Get an MSD ignition retard box (cheap) and retard 3 degrees per pound of boost. You won't have a problem. My buddy runs 27lb in his built eclipse motor, and retards an additional degree beyond the normal retard of the 4g63 motor's retard for safety. And he claims 702whp without a knock or a detonation. Retarding vastly reduces the impact on the cylinder head and doesn't TOO
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
For drag races, a kid I knew with a SOHC civic had the input and output pipes of the intercooler toward the top of it. The entire intercooler (not big) was immersed in a closed (mostly sealed) box of ice water (drag racing). Water has a very high specific heat, and needs to absorb a lot of heat energy before evaporating or even raising a single degree. He used to put in ice water, and at full 12lb boost, his intake charge at the TB was 80 deg F (huge diff. between the 120deg that he was getting on a dyno w/o the water)... spraying water on it, simply, will be slightly effective, but not hugely. Note that on a long open track, where the pavement is 140+ degrees, the air hanging just above the pavement where your car will be driving is VERY hot, and that spray of water CAN be a big deal. No, it won't slow you down unless for some reason the water you're spraying is sprayed directly on your air intake filter, in which case it would have to be a very poor filter and take in 100% of that water to even counteract the effects of spraying the intercooler.
Completely impossibly unlikely. It helps with the evo's and sti's a small amount. Not hugely, but a bit. Get a window washer sprayer from a car at a junkyard (both sides) and attach the nozzles to spray at your intercooler. Kits are expensive. And this method can work pretty well.
As long as your charge is cool, your octane is high, and your ignition is retarded, you can be just fine with such compression running whatever boost you want. A more highly compressed charge can be more apt to combust very quickly upon sparking than a less compressed charge. The difference between 8.8:1 and 9.5:1 is trivial at most. 8:1 and 10:1 is a break. I wouldn't worry about compression. Once you hit 11:1, and onward as such, you (with a hot charge) more risk spontaneous combustion, and big trouble. You're okay. Any intercooler at all is a big step over some old un-intercooled setups that ran into big problems with significant boost.
Take it light, keep the boost mild, and RETARD RETARD RETARD. Retarding ignition timing is the thing you have most control over with obd1. Get an MSD ignition retard box (cheap) and retard 3 degrees per pound of boost. You won't have a problem. My buddy runs 27lb in his built eclipse motor, and retards an additional degree beyond the normal retard of the 4g63 motor's retard for safety. And he claims 702whp without a knock or a detonation. Retarding vastly reduces the impact on the cylinder head and doesn't affect power significantly enough to not be considered for safety.
Endyn engine dynamics supercharger kits supercharge 24lb on stock bottom ends for hundreds of thousands of miles without a problem. it's all in the ignition, as far as you're concerned.
good luck
peace
bury the bach.
http://home.stny.rr.com/versanick/burythetach
Well I'm glad you're not seriously injured... I hope you can find a new ride in the way that you like it.
- llia
yep thats it finally found the right car kinda. It isnt as nice as id like but the price was right thats for sure. its green coupe again. Ill detail it out really nice before i start the arguous task of swapping parts out. Anyone in the northwest area want to learn or help.
So for the imediate swap theres the suspension( koni reds front and rear with sprint springs), the dc sport strut tower brace, and lower sway bars. Im debating doing jims 1/2 drop mod but dont want to smack the only pair konis Ive got with ah ammer just drop the front end more since it already hard to get a jack under it.
from there the 5 speed swap again. Ill use a new clutch this time and not a centerforce. Anyone need any of the auto parts?
I suppose the interior will get done after that. I love the green coupe with sei dark grey leather it really looks nice. When i do that ill do a trunk mount battery and run the wires for the audio setup. Ive got a sony cdx-c90 deck, xdp-210eq, ill be running my phoenix gold xs4600 and xs2500 with the omnilink for power with a cap of course. Ive got a few subs laying around. Most likely the 12w6 jl's but Id really like the 10w7's in there but then i couldnt use those apms. Id have to use my soundstream 644s and the 1000s. those would take up too much space.
Oh lets see after that ill need to do a little parts swaping. The hood and fenders have been repainted from bra damage so Ill put on my old hood and passanger fender but Ill have to find a drivers fender and possibly a trunk lid. I wont know till i see if the sctratches buff out. Can you tell Im a little anal.
And the finally will be the jdM b20a 5 speed. Ive got a dual setup turbo project going. The charge pipes and all will be the same so I can swap turbos, ecu, and downpipe in about an hour and change from a street/ auto-x to ful on drag car in about an hour. The issue will be injectors. Ill run 550's with the small turbo but im pretty sure the gt8rs needs something larger. I want an injector to run bot setups and be fine with just changing the ecu with uberdata. Ill check on that though. So I get final delivery on friday so expect pics after that. Hope everythings been good. I havent really been here in about 4 months. Mike
Glad to hear there will be another B20A running soon!
Now, we need pictures!
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
Where u at in washington man...
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
im over here in the eerett area. Im not going to make it to the meet. If we can get ine going for the west side guys im in. I need to make sure the ride nice like by then. I dont want anyone thinking im ghetto or anthing. Nothing but thte best for em yo. thanks all.
well the car seems to have a pretty bad rod knock and the piant isnt in as good of shape as id hope. The body is striaght though and Im going to swap engines anyway. Ill be driving along and for like 1 full second my car will do the nightrider smoke screen option. Its kinda funny watching people move out of the way. I feel pretty bad about it but hey its over before i notice it and its not like theres much i can doa bout it. Im gonna drive it till it wont then probably swap my spare motor and 5 speed since the rebiuld on the b20a wont be finished yet. Im debating installing it the way it is since it looks great and definatly has low miles. Im going to run a small 42/48 so its not like its going to be super powerful. Im shooting for 250 at the wheels. Just for satrters. Ill put a larger turbo in later on dwon the road. Any thoughts Mike
hey that sounds good. 250 whp will get u moving!
well the non lsd is probably going to kill me but well see. I think Im just going to install it and hope for the best. Ive done alot of homework so im sure it will work for a while if not longer.
yep all this weekend i managed to find a few hours to do some major work on the accord. The wifey kept hauling mme off to this soccer thingy where girls chase this round funny colored thing and try to kick it hard and often. I guess if you lose it in the bushes behind the line thats a good thing cause both teams would scream. Wow after reading what i typed, if anyone a little racial bias read that it could be taken the wrong way huh. Oh well.
Anyway the coupe has started the make-over process. I swapped the koni and sprint springs off the wrecked coupe onto this one. Of course i couldnt just leave the wrecked one on the ground so i had to put the wornout stockers back on so it wouldnt make my yard look like something from the bluecollor comedy tour.
After that was completed i put a 2.25 inch stainless mandrel bent exhaust from the cat back on with a dynomax muffler no resonator. Sounds nice but the engine noise mine is making really sounds bad so i cant get any recorded noise for anyone just yet. Its a little embarrasing.
And finally I did the sei rear disk break swap. Ill certainly say there should be a rating on the projects in the how to section with some sort of skill and difficulty ranking. Id rate thie rear disk swap right up there with an engine swap. Of course the car they came off must have spent alot of time on the east coast. The upper control arm ball joints castle nut was so rusted and gone I had to cut them off with ahacksaw because there wasnt enough left on it to get a socket on. Everything on it is rusted. I did the swap only to find out I need to rebiuld a caliper because the piston is seized and is currently making some god aweful smell and smoke from the rear. Gad it was only a test run.
Id have to say I pity all you poor fools that live on the east coast or any other state that salts there roads regulaly. Id never wrench again if i had to work on that kind of car. I was debating buying new and not even using the parts. Id consider myself very mechanically inclined and pretty good with tools so when i say oits tough and the car faught me the whole way thats just what i mean. Every bolt every nut all the linkanges. All rusted. anywho just thought some of you might like to know.
Next on the list is the transfer of all the jdm goodness from the wrecked car to the new coupe and then well start the engine swap and 5 speed tranny swap again. Hope i can get all that done ina weekend. I think so. Im gonna run my jdm b20a N/A for a while then bolt on the turbo. Should be nice huh. Mike
yea..east coast rust isnt too much fun...but hey..you do waht you gotta do. Keep it up man..you made lotsa progress for one weekend...just get the good stuff in there and start having fun...oh..and first paragraph = :lol
According to carfax the Se-i was in New York until 1996. I had no idea how bad the rust was! Sorry to hear you had a hard time with it.
well my current turbo for my setup is a 42/48 50 trim. Kinda small but should be ok for street use. Im looking for a little help in the trubo selection equation for my application. Id like to see it in numbers rather than just "sure, itll work great" you know. Id like a larger turbo that spools as low as possible. I was thinking the gt28rs but Im not 100% sure. Price is a consideration but overall happiness is job 1 here right now. so heres what ive got
Im going to running 550 injectors
obd1 with uberdata
5 spped tranny with a quaife lsd unit
probably the stock a20a intake with some major porting and such done
Im not planning on revving past 7-8k ever so id like it spool lower and pull tough to where I stop it
Id love the car to run full ionterior low 11s but if not its cool it need to run at least a 12.50
Id like to be in the 300-350 range, the turbo needs to fit a standard t3 flange, Ill run whatever exhaustsize needed 2.5 or 3 inch, the engine will be biult pretty tough, resleeved, oringed,aftermarket pistons, rods, stud girdle, arp bolts wherever applicable, Im going to have a buch of headwork done, oversized valves stronger springs, maybe a regrind cams, basically i want to find the good setup and biuld accordingly. Im a little anal most of the time so it needs to make me happy. Ive redone this project 3 times now because im not totally satisfied. Wifeys getting pretty upset and says this is oing to be the last time. Lets make it a good one
Hey You wanna sell that B20A and Tranny??Let me know....worth a try..LOL
sure send me a check for 1600 bucks
I can say I live in one of the worst climate for cars on the planet.... and every bolt on my car was rusted. I got used to it and I don't mind anymore lol.
Just get some penetrating oil, a torch and a hammer.... it sucks.
Good to know your project is comming along.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
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