Gonna change the MC with a re-man'd one today, I've checked the archives and "how to", read chilton and haynes...NOW, after all that, before I go at it, is there any helpful hints that probably isn't covered?
Gonna change the MC with a re-man'd one today, I've checked the archives and "how to", read chilton and haynes...NOW, after all that, before I go at it, is there any helpful hints that probably isn't covered?
Well I'm glad you now what you are doing. Some people will ask how to take off there damn header heat shield!
Well all I can think off is take your time and don't loose any bolts and you should be fine.
I'm your local R&D nut. Fabracting, welding, tuning and breaking my stuff so you don't have to.
Your a poster-child of what people should do before asking and to find every detail in the work that your undertaking.Originally posted by bigpoppa88
Gonna change the MC with a re-man'd one today, I've checked the archives and "how to", read chilton and haynes...NOW, after all that, before I go at it, is there any helpful hints that probably isn't covered?
P.S. Look to see that the shaft on the MC dosent have any fluid that may have leaked into the booster. Also, using LOTS of penatrating oil when loosing the hard brake lines that go to the MC. Do that the night before you take the MC off. You might have to use vice-grips so you dont strip the head. (At least that what i had to do)
Try to use new lock-washers when you install the new MC.
Rooz
That's my other "car" on the avatar, my Dash-8
Get a correctly sized flare nut wrench. A few bucks well spent as it will make lossening those bolts a lot easier.
Also , (You won't like this one) take back the reman and buy a NEW one. I got an after market new MC for $65. I have not seen great durability out of reman MC's in the past.
Be sure to bench bleed the MC before you install it. It should come with a kit and instructions to do that. After it's on, you may want to bleed the wheels as well (you will probably have to do it, anyway)
I just put the second replacement one on my car. They seem to last about 90-100K miles.
be carefull
Make damn sure that your m/c and your booster ( the nipple of the m/c and the shaft of the booster) will fit correctly, cause some aftermarket ones will not fit properly and you will have some real brake problems. If the diameter is too large for the booster your brakes could lock up on you. I know, cause i did it.
"I'm rolling, car not stolen, probably never will cause it's much too olden',"..... Devin the Dude
The one I bought was from a non-chain auto supply place that sells a better grade of parts. It was an almost EXACT duplicate of the Nissin part that was from Honda.
On top of that it included a new reservoir, cap, sensor, and everything. It has been on for nearly a year and is working perfectly.
The re-man i have has the "Nissin" on it.
Rooz
That's my other "car" on the avatar, my Dash-8
If it is a reman it definitely should since that is what Honda used at the factory!
Thanks all, the MC installed no problem, the re-man is a nissan so it fit right on. I have the flare nut wrenchs that I use all the time for brake nuts etc..., using penetrating oil is a super tip!! Bench bleeding was done ok, wheel bleeding is another story (broken bleeder valve). All in All, so far so good......Thanks again everyone!
Originally posted by DBMaster
The one I bought was from a non-chain auto supply place that sells a better grade of parts. It was an almost EXACT duplicate of the Nissin part that was from Honda.
Rooz
That's my other "car" on the avatar, my Dash-8
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