To all the guru's.. Help me design an enclosure!

[pimp86LX]

OK folks. I woke up to a 4x8 sheet of MDF sitting in my shed :super:

Its only 1/2" but thats ok cause im not pushing that much power and i could always make some bracing. I previously built a sealed box but it SUCKS!!

Anyway, I need help in designing an enclousure. I've read tons about sealed vs. ported (my sub can do both) but i really havn't listened to both carefully enough to tell wich is better. I also suck donkey genetalia when it comes to using any vector based drawing program. so the gurus, Please give advice, give some links, post some designs. anything!!

p.s. I've got carpentry glue, 2" woodscrews and a counter sink bit.

p.p.s ohya its a 12" sub with an extra 1" faceplate type dealie.

- the pimp:pimp:

[88 Accord DX]

ok. we gotta know what the recommended volume is.

and on the port vs. sealed thing. it depends on what you want. ported will be louder but it will be more sloppy bass while sealed wont get as loud but it will be tight an clean.

[87DXHatch]

I need TS specs... so you need to give up the model number and brand of the sub.

Also, ported can be JUST as clean as sealed if you do it right. I had my 12" Eclipse in a ported box before I switched cars and you would be very hard pressed to tell a difference in the sound quality to the sealed box it is in now.

Just realize that a ported box will be a lot more work, but a lot bigger reward afterward. Sealed boxes are simple and easy.

[87DXHatch]

Also, I need to know how much power you're putting into it so I can recommend how much bracing you will need.

[NXRacer]

there's a guy in my area that builds boxes and he has a special port thats rounded and his boxes are KILLER. I've seen him put to shitty ass 6x9's and they hit harder then a good set of 12's in a sealed box. If i remember the name of the port, i'll let you know......They take up a little bit more space then normal boxes, but its well worth it. I asked him if he would be able to cut out a 10" box to fit 12's and he said it would sound just fine. That way it would be able to fit in my trunk..... :lol

[pimp86LX]

1.0^3ft

im sending it up to 350rms continuous watts

its the Sony Xs-121P5

T/S numbers:

RDC: 3.2
Fs: 26.4
Qts:0.42
Qes: 0.44
Qms: 5.86
Vas: 1.96
Mms:219(g)
Lvc:1.2
Xmax(inch)0.3
BL(Tm):16.1

Total Volume:28Liters or 1.0Cu.ft(1728Cu.In)

[pimp86LX]

bump

[87DXHatch]

Well what do you want? Help with a ported enclosure? Or Sealed? Or what?

I can model it up for you but give me some time, I'm a busy man

[pimp86LX]

sealed

I would normally just tackle this myself, but i can't use CAD very effectively and last time i did it I forgot to account for board thickness so i was probably 0.5 Cu.ft to big

another question. What do you guys cut with? I don't have a lot of power tools, but i can get my hands on a mitre saw with little problems

[87DXHatch]

Ok, there aren't enough specs there to model it up, but that's ok. Here's what I would do if I were you:
I modeled up 1.25 cubic feet in the Bass Box program and it gave me:

13" X 20" X 8" Outer dimensions using .5" MDF.

That would give you very close to 1.25 cubic feet, before displacement, and I would go that far over the manufacturer's specs... it will make it sound cleaner and deeper.

I cut with a circular saw and a jigsaw. Circular saw for long cuts, jig for circles. It works out pretty good, that's how I built my fantastic ported box. I would highly suggest you do some minimal bracing once you finish the box. If you'll find the thread of mine with the pictures of my ported box, that'll give you some ideas of what to do.

[pimp86LX]

Thanks! hey is that the "golden ratio" i keep reading about?

I have a circular and a jig saw. Ill give that a try.

[pimp86LX]

ohya...any tips on drawing the circle? My paper work on the sub says the "basket seat" is 11.5" I don't have a compas or anything like that. I'm kind bewilderd on how im going to acheive this. My printer can't print beyond 8.5 x 11. Could i buy one from a local sound shop or something?

-Thanks

[dXsquared]

string and a pen or marker... tie the string to the pen.. then to a nail.. make the nail your center point... drag the string around in a circle...

Travis

[87DXHatch]

Travis has it... what I usually do, however, is to get a zip-tie, and measure half the distance of the circle I'm trying to draw, then I stab a nail through that point and tack it down in the middle. Then I push a pen or pencil through the hole in the one end of the zip tie and away I go.

[pimp86LX]

hmm i was thinking about that but wasn't sure if it was really feasable or not. Guess ya gotta just take your time.

[87DXHatch]

It's simple:

After you draw the circle, you get a fat drill bit, drill a hole in the circle, then clamp the board down and cut out the circle with the jigsaw, starting at the hole. It's very feasible.

[dXsquared]

kinda OT

what do you think of MA Audio? i can get 2 15's for 100 canadian.. is it a good deal???

its either that or 4 Bazooka CS series 12's

Travis

[pimp86LX]

news flash:

My neighbour just offered to lend me his plung router with a jig


3===D it should make the circle a breeze

[dXsquared]

nice and smooth as well!!!

Travis

[87DXHatch]

MA audio is decent... at least their amps and higher level subs are. I dont' know about that line.

However, I would rate them above Bazooka. I don't know if I'd go with so many woofers... I'd just get 1 or 2 high quality woofers.

Routers make circle cutting a breeze if you have the proper jigs.

[pimp86LX]

ok heres what i have so far. If you guys wish to add anything to it (wink wink ) than please do so

Sony Enclosure Design

Drawn in AutoCAD R14

[87DXHatch]

If you could save that as a JPEG then I could view it, I don't know what kind of file that is.

[pimp86LX]

my cuts are

• 2 - 7" x 12" (sides)
• 2 - 13" x 20" (front and back)
• 2 - 8" 19" (top and bottom)

if thats not right please tell me!

[87DXHatch]

It sounds like you are wanting to put on your baffle board last, in that case I'd do:

2 - 13" X 20" (front and back)
2 - 7" X 20" (top and bottom)
2 - 7" X 12" (sides)

That should be correct. But there's always more than one way to skin a cat... just make sure you measure .25" further than your measurement, so you've got some "error-room" to work with... you can always take away from the box, but you can't really add wood. Once you have it finished, run a bead of silicon or liquid nails around the seams inside to make sure it's sealed up tight. Put some weather-stripping around the sub mounting hole to make sure the sub has a secure seal with the box too.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I just bought a vented box for my two 12" Kenwood eXcelon 1200W subs 300rms (they're those fiber ones) I paid $128 (tax included)